Randalla

Sorry, I misunderstood. Yes, re-checked the relationship between the cam and the crank and everything lines up properly.

Not sure what you're asking, "on ignition." I'm measuring the maximum amount of distributor timing, which comes in at about 3000 rpm. I'm not running a vacuum advance. Are you referring to something else?

bradyzq, I was a little mystified by that fact as well. When I dyno'd it I was running 34 degrees of total timing. I have since dialed in another 2 degrees to 36. The rpms were even lower until I changed out the SU needles for some that were much richer at top end. I'm going to try an even richer needle at top end to see if I can bump the rpms up a bit. Any other ideas?

The top sheet overlays torque and horsepower. The bottom sheet overlays horsepower and AFM readings. I have some work to do to lean out the AFM at lower rpms in order to flatten out the curve. Likely will be experimenting with some different needle profiles. Car is very fun to drive and was build to be very streetable with zero detonation issues. Planning to open up the spark plug gap slightly from .032 to .035, dial in 2 additional degrees of timing and re-check valve clearances and I may tighten them very slightly. Oh, and obviously I'll try higher octane fuel next time (91 octane).

Just had a baseline pull done on my 72 240-Z with NA L-28 motor. The block is a F54 with dished stock turbo pistons, E-88 head with valves unshrouded and and some port work, cam is 480 lift/276 duration, running stock cast iron manifold with 2 1/2 inch exhaust and straight through glass pack muffler, Pertronix ignition, re-curved distributor running 34 degrees of total timing, SB profile SU carb needles and ITG foam air filters. Pull was with 87 octane fuel. Best pull was 180.1 HP and 224.5 Ft Lb Torque. No dyno tuning to date but with some very minor adjustments believe I can squeeze another 10 HP out of her.

I should have also mentioned that a very limited number of hard cover editions of the book were also printed. The hardcover versions were intended for Scarab owners as a companion to their cars. Brian Morrow has about 20 copies left and would be happy to sign them for anyone interested. Unfortunately, because of the small print quantity, the printing cost was quite high. These are available at his cost of $100 each to anyone interested in a collectible for their Z library. Books come shrink wrapped (unless you'd like them signed) and have a paper jacket wrapped over a black cloth cover with gold foil stamping on the cover and spine.

“Resurrecting the Legend – The Real Datsun Scarab Story,” is a meticulously researched 104 page book documenting the history of the Scarab Engineering Company and its cars from 1975-81. Over the years there have been many myths perpetrated that are addressed and refuted in the book. The book is based on personal interviews with the company’s founders and employees, all of whom had gone underground more than 35 years ago. The development of Brian Morrow’s very first Scarab is chronicled as well as the events at each of the three shop locations, leading up to the company finally being sold. With nearly 90 color photographs and illustrations, the book defines what a Scarab is and its roll in automotive history. By the mid-1970s, domestic muscle car performance had been emasculated, and by association so had the egos of their drivers. The Scarab was so much more than a Datsun Z-car with a transplanted Chevrolet V8 engine: it was a completely re-engineered automobile, with each system and component carefully considered, improved or replaced, to realize Morrow’s goal of creating a well-balanced machine capable of shaming all comers. Road Test magazine said it best when it wrote, “Subtle as a chain-link jock strap, the Scarab will not only blow 99 percent of the cars on the road in the weeds, it’ll do it in style.” Books are available for $35 with free shipping to the lower 48 states by PayPal at parallax.randy.lewis@gmail.com

FYI, I'm down to my last 2 sets for sale on eBay till more components arrive and I have time to produce additional products.

The level of fuel in the float bowls is the first step to be taken before making any other fine adjustments to optimize “runability” (other than valve adjustment). In my experience Float-Sync gets you to the baseline as quickly and accurately as possible. I learned, like most of us, the way to set float levels is to remove the float bowl lid and measure the distance between the lid and the top of the float when the cover is inverted. What I have since learned is how imprecise this approach actually is (in terms of optimizing engine performance) because of so many variables. Some of those variables include whether the carbs are being run with or without float bowl gaskets, how many turns down the jet nozzles are set, if the float valve is fully opening and closing, if the float bowl lid has short or long ears and if floats are intact and their buoyancy is the same in each float bowl and I’m sure there are a number of others.

I just posted 3 additional Float-Sync sets on eBay for those interested.

Thanks for your interest madkaw. I sold all the units I had for sale during the first seven day auction. I'll be re-posting additional units in the next couple of days so please check back. I'll post the date here as soon as I have a chance to get them back up on eBay.

Guess I may be a little, late but in good company nonetheless.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I also rebuild SU's and have for years. I was looking for a simple way to make sure floats were set properly before sending the re-built carbs back out. These have worked great for me and for those locally who field tested them for me before I listed them for sale. Wow, I guess I didn't know the exchange rate between the Canadian and U.S. dollar was so far apart.

Yes it is.

I've been working on a new product for the last six months that I'd love to get some feedback on. I've always known getting the floats in SU's set properly, and knowing for sure they were set the same in both carbs was important, but the method of doing so always seemed imprecise and less than elegant. I developed Float-Sync to know precisely where floats were set and have a visual reference, without removing the float bowl lids. On three screw SU's, there's a threaded plug in the float bowl that can be easily removed to substitute Float-Sync. The level of fuel in the float bowl dictates the level of fuel in the jet nozzle. This is a big deal for SU carburetors because the fuel level in the jet nozzle directly impacts engine performance. When the engine is running, a vacuum is created in the SU carburetor venturi that pulls fuel out of the jet nozzle, mixing it with air and drawing it into the engine. If float levels are adjusted too high, fuel puddles at the top of the jet, allowing too much to be drawn into the engine, creating a rich condition. If the float is adjusted too low, it's harder to pull fuel out of the jet, creating a lean condition. A rich condition can cause plug fouling, poor fuel economy, gas fumes, diluted crankcase oil (contributing to blow by and reduced engine protection), and in extreme cases potential for an engine fire. A lean condition can cause the engine to stumble, back-fire, ping and run hotter than it should, creating the potential to burn valves. Float-Sync allows you to see precisely where your floats are. You can see the fuel level, with the engine running, throughout the entire RPM range… all without opening the float bowls. You will never wonder again if your floats are adjusted correctly. I'd be interested in your feedback and suggestions. I listed a few sets for sale on eBay last week to gauge interest. Thanks