Randalla

Has anyone found door seals that allow the doors to close properly. I stripped off the original ones prior to painting my 240Z (which were the OEM glued on type). The first set I tried were also glue on type but were reproductions of some type and were a terrible fit, preventing the doors from closing unless the full weight of my backside was used. While I could get it to latch the door was bowed out as much as 1 inch at the bottom. The next set came from MSA and were actually the one piece version used on the 280Z's (MSA said they would fit). After installing these and carefully pounding the channels tight all around I had exactly the same poor fit. I even tried loosening the door hinge bolts to see if I could gain any adjustment. Still no good. After looking at a friends car with OEM seals it looks like the seals are thinner and much more pliable. So.....any ideas what to try next or where I can get OEM seals (I'm told they are unavailable)??? Arghhhhhh!!!

I've got a 1972 240Z with a five speed out of a 1981 280ZX. Now (couple of years after the installation of the 5-speed) I'm getting some strange noise I'm trying to diagnose before I drop the trans. when the car is idling in neutral without the clutch being depressed, I'm getting a noise that sounds a little bit like a rod knock, or marbles against metal. When I press in the clutch the noise goes away. When the car is moving in gear I hear the noise a bit but not as loudly. When the trans was installed I put in a new throwout bearing, pilot bushing, clutch, etc. Clearly it only make the noise when the clutch is locked up, which I assume must be something that is spinning under this condition. I'm guessing it may be the input shaft bearing on the trans. Any other ideas before I rip into it? The condition does not seem to affect drivablility at all but I'm guessing it's only a matter of time before something fails. Thoughts?

I gave up on trying to make the Unisyn work after taking it apart and not seeing any obvious things wrong. Just ordered the SK from J C Whitney today. Thanks for the help.

Now that sounds like the solution. I'll take a look and let you know. I even tried graphite where the float is thinking it was not free enough to move. Thanks

I do. There is a rubber seal on the tool. does it make any difference, in terms of it working, if you use mate it to the air horn of the air cleaner backing plate or the carb mouth without the plate? Seriously I've tried everything. At first I thought it was the tool so I bought another one and had the same result.

Does anyone know the trick to making this tool work. I've had two of them and have never been able to get the little float to rise no matter how it is adjusted (in our out) or what the rpm level is. I've resorted to balancing the carbs the old way (hose in the ear) but would like to know why the tool does not work. Thoughts???

Thanks for the advice. The write up by Malcolm Land was hugely helpful! Think I'll check with Motorsports on the filters.

Just switched out the stock air cleaner on my 1972 240Z with Motorsports polished aluminum air horns with out air cleaners. Because they flow so much more air I am now getting a stumble under full acceleration. Any ideas other than screwing the air mixture out and changing the viscosity (thicker) of the damper fluid? I like the looks of the air horns with out cleaners. The car is not a daily driver so I'm not too worried about dirt.