ww
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Posts posted by ww
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it always scares me to hear n00bs talk about things they don't know much about.
Let's try not to cast aspersions on someone else's experience or naivete until they've earned it.
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Yes, wet means a separate line for additional fuel, usually as another 'injector' next to the N2O injector controlled by the N2O system.
The LSD ONLY came in the 1987.5 to 1989 model years of the 300ZX turbo. The NA and the '84 to '87.5 turbo was open diff just like the one you have. The supply of these is dwindling rapidly and unless you get lucky, it's getting more cost effective to just buy a new Precision Gear - Power Brute LSD ($600) assembly and have it installed in your existing diff. for another couple of hundred. You'll end up spending about $900 for the purchase and installation, but you'll have a brand new one and not a questionable one from the junk yard that may need rebuilt in a few months.
Bear in mind, this will put more stress on your driveline in the drag event and the sticky tires will make it even worse. That's why I asked about your diff and u-joints. If they're not up to snuff, you'll be pushing your car off the starting line when the tree hits the green light...
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Wow, that down pipe is gonna have to be a lot shorter.
I wonder if you can cut the exhaust flange off the header, rotate it 30 deg. so the turbo is already facing the exhaust side down when it comes out?
That would make your downpipe a little "straighter" shot out of the turbine and would probably help with the compressor side clearing the steering.
You'd have to figure out if you have enough clearance for the intake tubing on the compressor housing since it'll be pointing up 30 degrees.
The compressor side output should be a little easier angle though... hmmm...
I'd start with the header flange. The beauty of metal is, you can always replace it if it doesn't work out right the first time...
Good luck.
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At least a 50 shot dry. You can probably do a 100 shot if you richen up the fuel. Even more if you go wet. What kind of shape are your diff and axels/ujoints in? LSD or no? What kind of tires are you gonna run?
I'd be more worried about breaking the ujoints than the motor.
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I should be at about 8.4 cr depending on the head gasket. What head gasket did you guys use. I don't have an intercooler yet, how much boost can i run with this setup untill i do?
I wouldn't run more than 10 or 12 psi without an intercooler unless you have a better than stock fuel management system.
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I always thought it was the fuel pump that wouldnt allow more boost not the injectors..
No. If it could, people would be buying bigger fuel pumps not bigger injectors.
It's limited by the flow rate of the injectors. You can compensate for the flow rate a little by increasing the fuel pressure, but it won't overcome the limited flow rate of the injectors when you start to hit higher boost settings.
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I was going to say Superior Friction as well. They'll build you anything you want for a reasonable price. They're also about 8 miles from me and about 1 mile from my shop...
Superior Friction: 408-436-1101
1610 Old Bayshore Hwy
San Jose, CA 95112, US
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I would go with the 79-80 zx dizzy. But if you ever have the ignition module go out, it'll cost a pretty penny to replace it. If affordability is your primary concern, I would go with the Pertronix or better yet, the Crane XR3000. Both completely replace the points and with the XR3000 you can sell your MSD 6AL to recover the cost of the Crane since it pretty much does the same thing.
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Agreed. FI is the way to go now. Carbs are really just for nostalgia at this point. For the price of a turbo carb setup, you can buy a fully built MS system and save yourself the pain of trying to make a carb do something it wasn't originally designed for, aside from the custom fabrication if you can't find the original after-market parts lying around somewhere.
At this point, if I'm unable to get the power numbers I'm looking for, I will convert to TWM ITB's with a MegaSquirt-n-Spark stand alone setup. This will at least retain the nostalgic 'look' of triple Mikuni's, but give me WAY more tuneability.
In 2006, there's really no reason to do a turbo carb setup. I'm even considering a dual TWM ITB setup to replace the SU's on my 240z... Wouldn't that be entertaining?! Just what I need, another freakin' project...
At least I'm picking up two "low rust" California '73 240Z's for free this weekend.
I wonder which one will loose the crappy flat-top's and get the ITB's?
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I prefer the blow-through vs. the draw through. There's nothing worse than having fuel pool at the bottom of your turbo housing and or intercooler and having pre-ignition light it up through the intake... FFFFOOOOMMMM!!
Blow throughs have their own set of problems with carbs that weren't designed to hold positive pressure especially 15, 20 and even 30 psi. But, in my opinion, the end result is a more reliable vehicle with ultimately more potential.
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Is there any way we can change the name of this thread? It's kind of non-descriptive in it's current form...
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Bleach, you stole WildmaN's avatar! You thief!
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1. Yes. http://www.westcoastdifferentials.com or http://www.reiderracing.com/pgpowerbrute.htm or do a search on this site for a Quaife torsen type LSD.
2. No. The R200's from 1975 to 1986 used a 10mm bolt where the 1987 to 1989 R200's used a 12mm bolt. 10mm aftermarket CLSD assemblies are not made anymore and are hard to find. 12mm CLSD assemblies are still being manufactured. You have three options, get a 12mm R200 out of an '87 to '89 300ZX or use an existing 10mm R200 and get 2mm thick spacers to fill the gap. This has been done successfully on many builds. Or get a Quaife torsen LSD that is drilled for both 10mm and 12mm bolts. This is what I got for my Turbo car. But expect to pay more than double for the Quaife although it is guaranteed for life under any conditions and requires no rebuilding like a clutch LSD does. The Quaife is pretty close to a set it and forget it option. But $1299 for a Quaife vs. $600 for a CLSD is hard for some people to stomach.
3. Mostly. But you need to make sure the 280Z has the R200 and not an R180. The R180's were installed in the Z car all the way up to 1983. Usually in the automatics. So, if you find a manual transmission car, you'll have a much better chance of getting an R200 mustache bar out of it.
Oh yeah, check out this sticky in the very forum you posted this:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512
Good luck!
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CarTech doesn't make it anymore, so, you could say it's priceless...
And no, mine's NOT for sale...
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I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me what pedal setup and master clutch cylinder will work on a r30 skyline. Im curious as to if there is any nissan setup that will work' date=' i urgently need something.
Thanks.
George[/quote']
I wish I had enough exposure to Skylines to even guess. Sorry dude. I'll bet some of our Aussie members can provide some info though.
Cheers,
WW
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MAF and AFM are the same thing...
AFM = Air Flow Meter
MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor
They perform the same function, but are of completely different implementations.
The AFM from the '75 to '83 280Z(x) uses a flapper door to restrict incoming air prior to the throttle body so the primitive ECU can pump the fuel using a fixed matrix based on the position of the AFM 'flapper'.
The MAF from the 300zx uses a heated wire element to MEASURE the amount of air coming into the throttle body and uses it's more sophisticated ECU to meter the amount of fuel being injected based on the MAF sensor reading + throttle position sensor + O2 sensor to make the air / fuel ratio match whatever is programmed into the computer.
All of these combined with the elimination of the restrictive flapper door make for a much more accurate and free flowing air fuel mixture.
Cheers,
WW
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TimZ, that's awesome man. Almost makes me want to toss my 'retro' nostalgic setup for a set of ITB's...
Fantastic job dude. You gonna be at MSA next year?
Hopefully, mine will be done by then and I'll see you there. We can trade notes.
Ok, actually, you have a lot more fabrication knowledge than I do, so I hope you don't mind if I just attach a brain sucker to your head?!
Anyway, truly magnificant job dude.
P.S. J, your RB26TT is pretty damn sweet too.
Cheers,
WW
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Kjones,
How'd it go? I'm really lookin' forward to seeing this swap a reality. I already picked up a good condition Z32 5-speed in anticipation...
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so how does the megasquirt system compare in price and performance to a haltech system?
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My buddy has a Komatsu? fork lift in his yard with an L series motor. Not sure what size it is though. I don't think it would make a very good donor though. The design criteria is considerably different for a fork lift than a passenger vehicle.
Although I agree with Briann, as an engineering exercise, my 3.1 is a lot of fun. However, it's even more fun with the turbo.
You can get a crank made by several of the custom crank manufacturers. My stroker crank is a billett crank from SCAT.
I believe you could get nearly as much power from a standard 2.8 L motor with a properly designed turbo setup and good fuel management.
If you're on a budget, there are better ways to get there, but if you're doing it for your own satisfaction and you have the financial wherewithall to do it, go for it. It's your ride, do with it what you want.
im a forklift mechanic' date=' there are industrial fork trucks with L30 motors, not sure how strong the internals are, i think there simular to the nissan military trucks in japan back in the 80'S and looks to be the same as the l series nissan blocks in the z cars...but some tcm / nissan / komatsu forklifts use the nissan L30
NOT SURE WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IF YOU CAM IT AND ADD TRIPLE WEBERS. but ive thought of trying it for fun[/quote']
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We'll try this again. What are you trying to accomplish? Do you want to hit a certain 1/4 mile time/speed? Do you want a fun street car to piss off some Honda wannabe? No comments from the peanut gallery Brian! Do you want a sweet cruiser?
We can't really tell you how much that setup will make because there are still too many variables. I suspect it will make somewhere between 90hp and 200hp to the wheels depending on who builds and tunes it, what cam profile is used. Saying you're going to use a 'good' cam is not helpful because a good cam for one application is a terrible cam for another.
Since the N42 would actually lower your compression ratio on an L24, I would stick with the E31 unless you want to go turbo and then the N42 would probably be a better choice.
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and for any dorks that think a turbo is a replacement try turboing the larger displacement motor.....
Tell it like it is preacher! 3.1L and turbo with 25psi... Ummm... A guy I know is about to turbo his high compression 3.2L Rebello. THAT's gonna be a kick in the azz!
Seriously, everything has to be designed as a system or you're more likely to hurt your total power potential or put it somewhere you'll never go for long, like 7000 rpm.
Figure out what you want to accomplish first, then you can start getting advice on what pieces will get you there and what mods you'll have to do to realize your goal.
Good luck!
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Anyone know what a Z32 tranny weighs?
The T5 is 85 lbs dry weight.
Need a L28ET engine and tranny
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
You and everyone else... I think you're going to have an even harder time there up north. This being one of if not the easiest swap into an earlier gen Z car, it's one of the most sought after drivelines, especially the one's that haven't been driven into the ground already.
I wish you the best of luck.