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I would not hesitate to transfer the fiberglass body to a New Donor Car. I have seen Z's with complete new tube front ed nd and suspension. That's an option. Mine was built in 1990 on a 73 240z. It came with a 283 SBC. I knew I wanted a V8, and bought a donor already done. ArizonaZ, which is like Alpha. Big hood. In 92/93 my daughters were born. I drove about 300-600 miles a year. Then Zero miles for last 5-6 years. I parked it 1/2on driveway and 1/2 on dirt. ..slight uneven...and it but a slight twist pressure. That caused the top Bond to separate. (I used marine epoxy). Water got in there and I now have rust. Could peel it back, reglass it. I would not hesitate to cut the body off !!!!! (no time tho Reverse engineer use an installation a manual. Lol, I'm going to sell my body kit, FREE Delivery, comes with a 1973 240z. No trailer needed

....except it does sound like excuses. Tom McBurnie knows better than anyone the reputation Kits have in the world. His name associated with a design is golden. Now this taints him as a business man! I have followed the industry and dreamed of various cars for over 30 years.....the caveat was always Buyer Beware. You could almost expect 100% of the time to be screwed. The horror stories didn't seem to stem the interest in the industry.......I know my experience was the same.....lots of promises that were BS. Tiger Woods and Tom McBurnie....fallen heros? Both are screwing a beauty. Lets hope Mr.McBurnie recovers, I certainly wish him the best, but he did his industry No Favors.

What type outside mirror did you use? Seeing over the rear fenders is tough!! I used Late 60's - 70's Corvette Mirrors, without logo. They stand up the Highest of any mirror I'ld seen. Clean single post mount, also. Note: SAME mirror for many models, yet price's differ with rarity !?!?!?!?

I have no experience with the VR trunk Lid, but..... With the 1st generation GTO nose, "long hood" there is only 1 1/2 inches between the Sugar Scoops and the leading edge of the hood. I had always noticed how wavy other cars were right there. Someone must have suggested, can't remember, but I bonded a long strip of 1/8th inch steal under that thin strip of body. I had drilled and pre-tapped 4 holes spaced from the ends and between the scoops. With another tapped strip bonded to the inside bottom of the nose, I installed 4 turn-buckles. My hood to nose alignment is always perfect !! Adjustable I don't know if you have room to bond a "stiffener" to your Trunk Lid. Just a thought

ME TOO !!!!!!!! Although an origianl manual of the one I used really would not have been much more useful. 17 years ago when I built my "Arizona Z" my manual was a copy of a copy of a copy etc. etc. Brings back memories. It was tough.....trial and error:roll:

That's the beauty of Electrics. The best looking handle you can find, don't worry about the inside connection or getting it to work. Be it Honda or t the fingerpulls listed (great possibility there). Leave the MG at home!

Still Open Thread? Over a decade ago I found two cvcc hatch pulls for my doors. Back then I could be picky, so I spent a few months searching the local Pick-A-Part for Hondas. PS: the door panels of old American cars sometimes use screws with dime or nickle size heads, yet very flat and thin. Great for holding Z interior panels, since I went for a spartan, race type gray/siolver interior. Looking for cvcc's....I would fill my pockets with these - and english indicator lites, toggle switches and Alphas or Fiats.... I used their gauges, with italian script "agua" Oleo" etc. with senders chevy SB. I left the stock Z button for the trunk. I highly recommend the Electric door pull solenoids. I didn't bother with all the inside mechanism. VinhZXT's two posts really are a clean modern answer!! http://www.dirak.com/uploads/katalog...sch/E1-060.pdf This finger pull has TONS of potential, either with the dirak above, or something else (z trunk latch, keyed, ??) http://www.illinoislock.com/cam_locks.asp?id=605 Plated Steel Finger Pull Part number S9657 is also available HOWEVER.....funny story. I bought my 73' donor car already with a V8. Really a nice car....built by an engineer type. It already had an alarm, but I "plugged in" a newer one. More buttons of control on the alarm. The wiring head on most of these are Universal. What I didn't realize was the electric fuel pump was set to cutoff if you didn't disengage the alarm. Since I had been using this alarm Mainly for door opening....no siren....Quite Often the car would stall for No Reason.....after the fuel in the carb and lines ran dry. I sat at intersections several times pulling fuses and checking wiring in the console before I figured that out. I used a set of Cadillac electric window switches, circa 1975, to open the doors from the inside. Small 1 inch toggle buttons, that I mounted in the console - after the shifter, before the arm rest....PERFECT Fit and look. I haven't done anything with my interior door panels, except to remove the "upholstery" and repaint black and silver....SO I still have manual door handles...GREAT for dead batteries....and mine sits a lot. Eventually (yeah - sure ) When I redo the door panels I will leave a wire door pull -discreet- to manually open the doors. I (me) used to crawl in the hatch to open the door, Then I fabricated a stick and loop, now....those Kids born 17 years ago-that pulled me from my assigned Kit duties....I make them crawl in and do it. NOW at 16 & 17....they wonder why they can't drive it? I wonder the same thing So...electric doors, dummy handles, because your probably going to run an alarm anyway

I wonder how many ways people Bond their GTO body to the Roof. Mine has delaminated right where they meet, as it is a Flex point of the body (hence the lead filler from the factory). I used the Marine Bonding glue I think was suggested by Thunder Ranch, 17 years ago. My Door Skins Remain Perfect, a common delamination point. I want to Re-do mine. It was suggested to grind back to Metal on the roof and Fibeglass the Clip to the Roof. Feathering it farther forward onto the roof. What are peiple doing these days?

OH. SMOG. I believe by age a 1973 is Calif Smog Exempt. I have been thru many changes in Cali Smog laws. My 250GTO, v8 was converted by previous owner and I now have it titled and smogged as a 1962 passenger car !!!!!!!!!!! huh? Yep and WOW....weird

Just got back into all the forums and Z based discussions. Love This Stuff! My GTO has sat for the last few years, always Registered, rarely driven. It is: 1973 Datsun 240Z with ArizonaZ GTO Kit (Large Hood type Kit). I bought the Z donor car already converted to V8, Complete with 1962 SBC, 283ci, Automatic Trans, Air Conditioning. Mallory Ingnition. Electric Fan. Oil Cooler. Great running order. About $12,000 invested. Valued at $15,000 to $18,000.00 Runs with 289 Cobras! Needs re-paint after minor repairs. Bonding of rear clip above Hatch needs attention. Feather the Bonding But NO door delamination (a common problem with poor installations). Gas Filler moved inside, needs re mounting. or mount outside Needed New Key and switch, just bought one off ebay. I'm getting a new battery and sorting out the running. Custom Dash '62 Corvette Outside Mirrors Wire Wheels New Windshield. Electric Doors, Alarm. EXTRA rear hatch, Pantera Style !! Mounted, not painted. Newer Black/Silver Interior, carpeting, panels. Reupholstered Stock Seats - Black with Red piping! Extra set: Low-Back Seats from an AlhaRomeo, Reupholstered - Black with Red piping, never used, I am 6' and they didn't work, good for a 5'9" or smaller driver....Bolt right in tho'. Austin Healey Running Lights. Italian Guages One-Off dash Cover Head Light Covers, never installed Alloy For Light Rings Stereo and Electric antennae Spare 283 heads, Hardened Valve seats Many Farrari touchs Many Z Parts Still have all Datsun Z parts that came off. L & R Fenders F & R Bumpers LOUVERED Hood !!! 2 rows Tail lights etc. NOT quite turn-key, due to sitting. All repairs ARE cosmetic. Would entertain Porsche Kit Trade, 356 or 550, any condition. $8,000 or best offer. Even with a custom paint job and repairs you could NOT build this for under $10,000 $8k Thanks, Patrick Orange County, CA