A. G. Olphart
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Posts posted by A. G. Olphart
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Unless I don't understand how the camaro regulator works, you should be able to just put a return style regulator on it, set for your desired pressure, and the in tank regulator should act like it's not there at all. It should vent fuel back to the tank to maintain 60 psi, if it never gets near 60psi, then it should never vent. The pressure would end up being controlled completely by the return new return style regulator.
Sounds right. I've been wondering if the tank's 60PSI setting would flow enough through the regulator up front at idle and cruise to make the 3/8 return line look like a restriction. I think that could throw off pressure at the carb.
Also not sure if my return regulator will have enough flow capacity to handle 60 pounds through a 3/8" feed. First one I've had.
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I've been researching the F body plastic tank for my 72... Bought a 6 cyl tank with straps.
The 6 cylinder tanks themselves seem to be the same as the LS1; difference is in the pumps. Both use a bucket rather than tank baffles, and I've read that the 6 cylinder pump (no regulator, one from a Corvette was recommended) reputedly is good for around 400RWHP --Talk from another forum, accuracy not guaranteed.
My 6 cylinder pump tested noisy, so I've ordered the FPM-001 (complete LS1 style bucket) from Racetronix. Reasonable, and should be plenty good for my carbed old style 350 assuming that I get around the regulator issue.
Other issue (beyond a bunch of welding) is the gauge sender: Camaro is around 240 Ohms, Datsun 90 to 10 ohms. I've worked that out to my satisfaction by:
1) Reversing the full / empty relationship from stock GM by bending the float arm into a mirror image of itself (leaving the short 90 degree bit that snaps into the sending unit alone). Pump bucket key removed and bucket rotated so the fittings face forward.
2) Substituting a (pricy) sending unit from GM:
Part: 25319676
Category: Fuel Tank Meter Sender/Connector
Description: SEN KIT
Min.Qty: 1
Unit Price: $100.80 (from GMPartsDirect; S&H added another $25 or so)
This kit is for a Pontiac and has two 90 ohm senders with slightly different connectors:
Part # 25319676. Sender out of a '97 Grand Prix.; Non-Supercharged 3.8, before VIN #238198
Hope that this helps somebody.
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I'm putting a 2002 Camaro plastic tank in my 72Z, and wonder if the in tank regulator can be modified to lower the output pressure.
I'd like to drop the output pressure to around 20 pounds, then run an adjustable return style regulator up front to get a steady 5-6 pounds.
CruxGNX had posted a picture (long gone) showing how to gut the stock regulator. Since he was able to get the stocker apart, I'm hoping that it may be possible to replace the relief spring with a lighter one.
Has anyone done this, and is it feasible?
It seems that lowering the pressure should lengthen pump life... and I'm not sure if my (relatively cheap) return style regulator would handle the stock 60 pounds.
TIA.
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I have to get a 78 280z to pass CA smog, so I need a fuel injected engine with all parts, preferably working, in Norcal.
Thx, Sal
Still need an engine? Where in Norcal are you?
I'm 25 miles North of Chico and have a 280 engine under my bench. Came from a friend's car when his kids bent it.
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Look under the valve cover on the link I gave.
Look closely...
Muahahahahaha!
Being old, all I saw under the valve covers was words--- these the ones you meant?
"Compare the similarities between Schubeck engines and the engines winning at Lemons and Indy."
Didn't realize the influence of the 24 hours of Lemons had been that pervasive.
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I have th-350 tran with no overdrive and no top end i either need 700r4 oe 336 rear end let me know what i should do . i just finished v8 conversion or so i thought please help me with any pointers.
The 2004-R is great trans, but needs a little help. Chris at http://www.CKPerformance.com builds upgraded hard parts and shift kits in house, sells parts as well as built and tested trannys.
(They are used in a lot of turbo Buicks/ Grand Nationals).
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It will be good to have all the information in one place, and your effort will be appreciated by those who locate it.
(Your living in Oz may explain "air-con", not a term that comes readily to mind when searches are input North of the equator... my guess is that rule #5 insures that all using the site may readily find and understand the nuggets of specialized knowledge left here).
hopping
off
soap box
I do look forward to seeing the full install: Thanks!
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Short Version: The ugly Carter pumps which hang off a six hole bracket are great pumps.
The Problem: Put a nice quiet georotor pump in my wife's 72 Chrysler wagon (440 engine), and it died in less than two years. That got me thinking about the application, and why a relatively pricey pump would go away so quickly. I decided the seal between the pump and the motor (common to almost all motor style electric pumps) probably failed because the tank is vertical --along one rear quarter panel-- and thus gravity put fuel pressure on the seal at all times.
The solution: According to my current Summit catalog,pg. 28, the heavy-duty Carter pumps are "wet motor" pumps, with no seal to fail.
I spoke with an old parts man locally (after going to a Carter) and he's had one of these pumps on his pickup since 1986. That's durable enough for me.
Small caveats: A return style regulator would be adviseable for the 4601HP model to minimize the load on the pump motor.
If you have a rough riding rig, like my old Toyota pickup, I'd recommend duct taping the friction held electrical connections in place (a connector fell off after several years).
Like all vane fuel pumps, they are fairly noisy. I'd use rubber stand offs on a civilized car.
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Hey Chris, did you get this figured out, I ran into the same issue you were having during assemble?
I did my best to assemble without pinching (very difficult with the spring tabs sticking out) yet I am getting a clunking sound from the diff when going around corners.
Did you install with the springs flipped around?
Too late for Chris and Kash, but for anyone else who may attempt this in the future: It ain't easy, but it can be done. The Belleville (conical) springs must be aligned perfectly with each other and the slots they will drop into; the top of the LSD case must be lowered exactly into place on top of them, and pulled down very evenly. (There may be a slight champfer on the top of the slots in the case, but don't count on it to do much).
I put a couple ring gear bolts across from each other in the 'top' part to act as guides, lined up the marks on the case edge, held my tongue just right, and got lucky on the third try.
If a bolt gets tight whilst there is still a gap between case halves STOP, and start over. Not stoppng will lead to little bits of iron being carved from the case for your diff to chew on, or a broken tab on a Belleville washer.
Once the LSD top was placed, I caught about half a thread on each of the small Phillips screws in hopes that they would prevent any rotation the ring gear bolts might allow. Then the LSD halves were pulled together with a couple 7/16" bolts; whenever I could tell the gap was less than perfectly even. I tightened one of two other bolts at 90 degrees to the 7/16 bolts to bring things back into alignment. (After the fact, I found Jon's post suggesting 3 bolts, which would likely simplify the procedure).
Kash, by now you know that LSD additive generally helps with corner clunking / clutch chatter. Some one else may not.
HTH someone, some day.
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I've heard of guys using green loctite to prevent a bearing from spinning on the carrier (not Datsun). Haven't heard of the race spinning before this. Obviously taking some off the cap means the hole won't be round anymore, but if it's just a thou or two, maybe that won't be enough to matter (?).
Thanks Jon.
It's just another "Why me?" thing. Guess I'll continue as planned and add a little Locktite. The damage is fairly light, so some judicious sanding seems to be in order. (With luck and micrometers, it may work).
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Adding more clutch discs to my LSD has morphed into something else.
After pulling the carrier bearing caps, it was evident that one outer race has spun, and the other cap is shiny where the race rides, like a rod when the bearing has walked a little in the bore. (Both caps were tight, but who knows if someone before me has swapped them).
Is this common with R200s, and if so, what can be done?
I cant feel anything with a fingernail on the shiny cap, but a nail catches on the one that spun. It isn't bad, and I'm thinking of sanding some off the cap's mating surface to tighten things up. (Wet or dry on a sheet of flat safety glass).
Gears are great, no trash in the case, no pits in the bearings. Sure do want to make it work.
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Hehehe... So I stand a good chance of seeing if the filter can withstand 100+PSI without blowing apart! Maybe I should get a billet filter housing.
I will check it out when I pull it back apart to clean everything. The entire system can be easily disassembled.
I would like a filter-boss bypass, but It is my understanding that a metered hole would actually bypass less oil than a bypass valve in some cases. I am considering finding a good place to drill a 0.250" hole to allow a constant metered bypass with no spring loaded valve at all. I could do that in the aluminum adaptor plate without touching the block at all.
I don't have the engineering background to verify my gut feelings, but a quarter inch hole sounds like an awfully large part of the low RPM flow of hot/thin oil from the fixed displacement pump.
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... Manual valves are typical for racing applications but I wanted something a little more high tech. I chose their electric EPC valve with the 30 PSI switch. I have a dash mounted toggle switch to disable the unit, otherwise it operates without driver control. There are several warning indicator lights for the accusump as well as 2 different beepers.
The Electric EPC system works like this...
The Ignition circuit feeds power to the dash mounted switch. There is a multi-color LED above the dash switch. This is routed to the EPC valve mounted on the Accusump end cap.
1. The light is green when the unit is enabled and full.
2. The light turns bright blue and a LOW-tone beeper sounds whenever the unit operates. ie. pressure drops below 30 PSI.
3. The light turns red and a louder HIGH-tone beeper sounds when the oil pressure in the engine block drops below 7 PSI.
There is also a very bright light in the Tachometer housing for the LOW pressure warning below 7 PSI.
The Accusump is plumbed into the oil inlet port to the block, close to the engine oil inlet. There is also a check valve to force flow towards the engine inlet.
The hose on the left runs to the Accusump. The hose on the right is from the cooler/filter returning oil to the block. The bottom hose runs directly to the engine block adaptor.
That covers the Accusump hookups... next the cooler and remote filter.
BJ, thanks for showing your install!
I've been considering an electric valve, but even after a call to Canton (thick skull here) don't understand why the EPC valve is such a hot ticket. Yes, the accumulator holds max pressure until the discharge set point is reached (rather than just following engine oil pressure up and down), but I don't see how the accusump will fill any more quickly with EPC than with a bare valve, as the valve is in series with the EPC.
The valves seem to be the same; any idea why/how they could fill more quickly (suitable for racing) with the EPC?
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Very nice!
Terry, what is the purpose of the 8 degree cut, just a straighter shot to the intakes?
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Although that welder needs big wiring, I doubt if you will often be welding stuff at 300 amps (so the line current shouldn't be way up there).
I'd talk to someone in the business as to the machines utility in a smaller shop (Beta Motorsports comes to mind... Sorry, John).
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at a buddys house my 73 240z woudlnt start but fired right up with a jump start. i came home and put it on the charger over night and ran fine for a few days then yesterday it happened again. i got another jump and when i got home (about a 5 min drive) i shut it off and just for kicks tryed to start it again and nothing. iv hooked it up to the charger and set it on the "start" setting and tryed to start it and it just goes click click click and my Amp gauge goes waving all over the place (i have a -/+ 60 amp gauge). also when i try and start it all my lights dim, even my parking break light goes dimmer.
i have a reletivly new alternator and a rebuilt gear reduction starter and a brand new batt.
i havent had any trouble like this before so im not even sure where to start really.
For some reason, your alternator has quit charging. It might be a bad connection... Have you pulled the cables off the battery and shined things up?
If the battery were bad, charging it overnight would not have put you back on the road for a few days.
Jumping with another car and good cables gives the car a whole lot more juice than a typical charger in the 'start' position.
If you want to start the car off a charger, let the battery charge for a while first- then put it in 'start' mode and give it a shot. Or just charge it overnight again.
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Jtmny1999,
I have a fear of is missing a ground or relay and my Z catching on fire !!!!
A missing ground or relay should mean that something doesn't work, not a fire.
Fires are generally started when a circuit is overloaded- Too big a fuse and too large a load for the wire used on that circuit. Wire gets hot, plastic insulation melts and... smoke.
Properly sized fuses will melt away before the wires get hot (run the plastic insulated wires across an exhaust manifold, though, and all bets are off).
If a person has a fuse blow, and 'solves the problem' by putting in a bigger fuse rather than chasing down the short, he's begging for a fire.
I've wired a couple of project cars, and more recently, my house. I won't say that no mistakes were made, but no fires, and my lights and appliances work.
My guess is that wiring kits come with fuses already sized for each circuit (although I've never used a kit, so can't swear to it).
Hope you get your Z wired soon, however it gets done!
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has anyone else used a mopar ignition box on there car? i just put one on just to see what happens the result is that it works great! i think this would be a cheaper alternative to an msd ignition just checking if any one else has already done it
I've used the 1970's Mopar ignition boxes to change from points to electronic on both a Toyota and a Datsun. Located magnetic pickup (reluctor) distributors for each engine, and wired the box up per an old 'Direct Connection' book. No multispark capability like MSD, but works fine. As the boxes are good for about 5000 on a V8, they should do for around 6500 on a six, or 10K on a four. Higher performance/rpm boxes are available.
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IN my case the voltage does not drop, instead it peaks out. I changed my MAF sensor for a twin turbo MAF ( I have and 1986 Turbo Z) and I don't know if that is one of the problems and I wish somebody could answer mew this. Another thing a friend of mine told me is one of the "Fusible links" gone bad...can this be it? Another thing is that I changed my stock regulator for one that looks from a Porsche and I don't seem to find where's the fuel entry, the fuel exit and the air vaccum. This fuel regulator is completely different because unlike the stock one it only has one fuel entrance ( the stock one has two). I'm breaking my head here because of thinking too much, can someone somewhere help me?!?!?!?!
If the engine isn't running, I don't see how the voltage can be going up... starter and other electrical loads will be draining the battery, eventually causing the voltage to go down.
You can check your fusible links with a voltmeter: If you find battery voltage across one, it is blown. I'd change any link with a significant (volt or so??) reading.
Sorry, I can't help with EFI stuff.
Sounds like you may have picked up a 'deadhead' fuel pressure regulator to replace a bypass type. Not a good idea. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105947
I'd guess that you also need that vacuum/pressure connection on your regulator for boost enrichment, but that is strictly speculation.
Life is simpler if a person makes only one change at a time.
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Weren't those wheels dealer installed options? Also I didn't realize leather was factory on such and early car. But I could be wrong.
I wouldn't pay that much.
My 240 came with Shelby wheels (look to be the same) so likely was a dealer option.
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You have a PM with a lead...
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Did someone just say "freeze plug"?
I’m known around here for getting my panties in a wad when core plugs are erroneously referred to as "freeze plugs". Honest mistake, we all made it at one time. Now you know, they are not freeze plugs and offer no insurance if the coolant/water freezes in the block.
They are core plugs, soft plugs, etc. (there is another thread on this topic here somewhere...)What you are you are referring to are the oil galley plugs. Go to any performance oriented automotive machine shop and they should have exactly what you need on hand.
As for the plugs with the tiny holes, were those oil galley plugs or core plugs for the coolant cavities?
Some times in performance/racing applications, builders will drill a tiny hole in the main galley plug under the timing cover in an effort to get oil flow to the lower end a little quicker on initial start up. How that works is the hole allows the air in the oil system to escape quickly which in turn allows the pump to fill oil galleys quicker with oil thereby pressuring the system quicker. The hole is small enough it does not adversely affect oil pressure or flow to the engine once oil pressure has been established and is quoted as also helping lubricate the timing chain at the same time, more important for cars that only accelerate robustly, i.e. dedicated strip cars where the oil is flung to the back of the engine while in hard working operation.
Hope that helps,
Paul
And BRAAP Quixote remains true to his heart, fighting for technical accuracy against overwhelming odds...
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Try a new ballast resistor, the white ceramic thing bolted to the firewall and wired to the coil. There are two types, two wire and four wire, get the same kind you have.
If that doesn't do it, you probably need a new ignition switch.
Post a pic. Old Mopars are cool.
jt
I second the above thought... If you have a 4 wire resistor, one side is for starting, the other is for running. When the run side goes open, engine dies when starter is released. With the single resistor, start may run straight 12 volts to the coil, and run insert the dropping resistor. Again, if it is open, the car would die as soon as the starter is released.
64's were pre electronic ignition... If it is still points, possibly the flexible wire in the distributor is bad. Engine starts, vacuum advance moves the breaker plate, engine dies.
I find it interesting that only Zs may have technical problems.
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Anyone know how to stop brake cylinder rust?
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The only thing I can think of for the brake system is to pump fresh fluid through it just before leaving; that would remove any existing moisture. (Since the fluid is hygroscopic, this isn't a true fix, but seems better than doing nothing).
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They are core plugs, soft plugs, etc. (there is another thread on this topic here somewhere...)
LS1 pump with carburetor
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Thanks Tony.
We've all been presuming that the GM regulator is on the supply side, but I got to wondering why CruxGNX felt he needed to disable the stock regulator. The answer is here: http://www.racetronix.com/RX-F99-FPKG-2.html. "The return line feeds the pressure regulator on the fuel module...". Oops.
That means everything ahead of it (including the carburetor) would be held to 58PSI. Man, what a fountain that would make.
So I, too, will disable the factory regulator and just hope my 3/8" return line can flow the pump's full output without significant pressure drop (which, as you point out, would cause a rise in carb inlet pressure).