A. G. Olphart

Thanks Tony. We've all been presuming that the GM regulator is on the supply side, but I got to wondering why CruxGNX felt he needed to disable the stock regulator. The answer is here: http://www.racetronix.com/RX-F99-FPKG-2.html. "The return line feeds the pressure regulator on the fuel module...". Oops. That means everything ahead of it (including the carburetor) would be held to 58PSI. Man, what a fountain that would make. So I, too, will disable the factory regulator and just hope my 3/8" return line can flow the pump's full output without significant pressure drop (which, as you point out, would cause a rise in carb inlet pressure).

Sounds right. I've been wondering if the tank's 60PSI setting would flow enough through the regulator up front at idle and cruise to make the 3/8 return line look like a restriction. I think that could throw off pressure at the carb. Also not sure if my return regulator will have enough flow capacity to handle 60 pounds through a 3/8" feed. First one I've had.

I've been researching the F body plastic tank for my 72... Bought a 6 cyl tank with straps. The 6 cylinder tanks themselves seem to be the same as the LS1; difference is in the pumps. Both use a bucket rather than tank baffles, and I've read that the 6 cylinder pump (no regulator, one from a Corvette was recommended) reputedly is good for around 400RWHP --Talk from another forum, accuracy not guaranteed. My 6 cylinder pump tested noisy, so I've ordered the FPM-001 (complete LS1 style bucket) from Racetronix. Reasonable, and should be plenty good for my carbed old style 350 assuming that I get around the regulator issue. Other issue (beyond a bunch of welding) is the gauge sender: Camaro is around 240 Ohms, Datsun 90 to 10 ohms. I've worked that out to my satisfaction by: 1) Reversing the full / empty relationship from stock GM by bending the float arm into a mirror image of itself (leaving the short 90 degree bit that snaps into the sending unit alone). Pump bucket key removed and bucket rotated so the fittings face forward. 2) Substituting a (pricy) sending unit from GM: Part: 25319676 Category: Fuel Tank Meter Sender/Connector Description: SEN KIT Min.Qty: 1 Unit Price: $100.80 (from GMPartsDirect; S&H added another $25 or so) This kit is for a Pontiac and has two 90 ohm senders with slightly different connectors: Part # 25319676. Sender out of a '97 Grand Prix.; Non-Supercharged 3.8, before VIN #238198 Hope that this helps somebody.

I'm putting a 2002 Camaro plastic tank in my 72Z, and wonder if the in tank regulator can be modified to lower the output pressure. I'd like to drop the output pressure to around 20 pounds, then run an adjustable return style regulator up front to get a steady 5-6 pounds. CruxGNX had posted a picture (long gone) showing how to gut the stock regulator. Since he was able to get the stocker apart, I'm hoping that it may be possible to replace the relief spring with a lighter one. Has anyone done this, and is it feasible? It seems that lowering the pressure should lengthen pump life... and I'm not sure if my (relatively cheap) return style regulator would handle the stock 60 pounds. TIA.

Still need an engine? Where in Norcal are you? I'm 25 miles North of Chico and have a 280 engine under my bench. Came from a friend's car when his kids bent it. .

Being old, all I saw under the valve covers was words--- these the ones you meant? "Compare the similarities between Schubeck engines and the engines winning at Lemons and Indy." Didn't realize the influence of the 24 hours of Lemons had been that pervasive. > > >

The 2004-R is great trans, but needs a little help. Chris at http://www.CKPerformance.com builds upgraded hard parts and shift kits in house, sells parts as well as built and tested trannys. (They are used in a lot of turbo Buicks/ Grand Nationals). > > >

It will be good to have all the information in one place, and your effort will be appreciated by those who locate it. (Your living in Oz may explain "air-con", not a term that comes readily to mind when searches are input North of the equator... my guess is that rule #5 insures that all using the site may readily find and understand the nuggets of specialized knowledge left here). hopping off soap box I do look forward to seeing the full install: Thanks!

Short Version: The ugly Carter pumps which hang off a six hole bracket are great pumps. The Problem: Put a nice quiet georotor pump in my wife's 72 Chrysler wagon (440 engine), and it died in less than two years. That got me thinking about the application, and why a relatively pricey pump would go away so quickly. I decided the seal between the pump and the motor (common to almost all motor style electric pumps) probably failed because the tank is vertical --along one rear quarter panel-- and thus gravity put fuel pressure on the seal at all times. The solution: According to my current Summit catalog,pg. 28, the heavy-duty Carter pumps are "wet motor" pumps, with no seal to fail. I spoke with an old parts man locally (after going to a Carter) and he's had one of these pumps on his pickup since 1986. That's durable enough for me. Small caveats: A return style regulator would be adviseable for the 4601HP model to minimize the load on the pump motor. If you have a rough riding rig, like my old Toyota pickup, I'd recommend duct taping the friction held electrical connections in place (a connector fell off after several years). Like all vane fuel pumps, they are fairly noisy. I'd use rubber stand offs on a civilized car. <>

Too late for Chris and Kash, but for anyone else who may attempt this in the future: It ain't easy, but it can be done. The Belleville (conical) springs must be aligned perfectly with each other and the slots they will drop into; the top of the LSD case must be lowered exactly into place on top of them, and pulled down very evenly. (There may be a slight champfer on the top of the slots in the case, but don't count on it to do much). I put a couple ring gear bolts across from each other in the 'top' part to act as guides, lined up the marks on the case edge, held my tongue just right, and got lucky on the third try. If a bolt gets tight whilst there is still a gap between case halves STOP, and start over. Not stoppng will lead to little bits of iron being carved from the case for your diff to chew on, or a broken tab on a Belleville washer. Once the LSD top was placed, I caught about half a thread on each of the small Phillips screws in hopes that they would prevent any rotation the ring gear bolts might allow. Then the LSD halves were pulled together with a couple 7/16" bolts; whenever I could tell the gap was less than perfectly even. I tightened one of two other bolts at 90 degrees to the 7/16 bolts to bring things back into alignment. (After the fact, I found Jon's post suggesting 3 bolts, which would likely simplify the procedure). Kash, by now you know that LSD additive generally helps with corner clunking / clutch chatter. Some one else may not. HTH someone, some day. <>

Thanks Jon. It's just another "Why me?" thing. Guess I'll continue as planned and add a little Locktite. The damage is fairly light, so some judicious sanding seems to be in order. (With luck and micrometers, it may work). <>

Adding more clutch discs to my LSD has morphed into something else. After pulling the carrier bearing caps, it was evident that one outer race has spun, and the other cap is shiny where the race rides, like a rod when the bearing has walked a little in the bore. (Both caps were tight, but who knows if someone before me has swapped them). Is this common with R200s, and if so, what can be done? I cant feel anything with a fingernail on the shiny cap, but a nail catches on the one that spun. It isn't bad, and I'm thinking of sanding some off the cap's mating surface to tighten things up. (Wet or dry on a sheet of flat safety glass). Gears are great, no trash in the case, no pits in the bearings. Sure do want to make it work. <>

I don't have the engineering background to verify my gut feelings, but a quarter inch hole sounds like an awfully large part of the low RPM flow of hot/thin oil from the fixed displacement pump. <>

BJ, thanks for showing your install! I've been considering an electric valve, but even after a call to Canton (thick skull here) don't understand why the EPC valve is such a hot ticket. Yes, the accumulator holds max pressure until the discharge set point is reached (rather than just following engine oil pressure up and down), but I don't see how the accusump will fill any more quickly with EPC than with a bare valve, as the valve is in series with the EPC. The valves seem to be the same; any idea why/how they could fill more quickly (suitable for racing) with the EPC? <>

Very nice! Terry, what is the purpose of the 8 degree cut, just a straighter shot to the intakes? <>

Although that welder needs big wiring, I doubt if you will often be welding stuff at 300 amps (so the line current shouldn't be way up there). I'd talk to someone in the business as to the machines utility in a smaller shop (Beta Motorsports comes to mind... Sorry, John). <>

For some reason, your alternator has quit charging. It might be a bad connection... Have you pulled the cables off the battery and shined things up? If the battery were bad, charging it overnight would not have put you back on the road for a few days. Jumping with another car and good cables gives the car a whole lot more juice than a typical charger in the 'start' position. If you want to start the car off a charger, let the battery charge for a while first- then put it in 'start' mode and give it a shot. Or just charge it overnight again. <>

I've used the 1970's Mopar ignition boxes to change from points to electronic on both a Toyota and a Datsun. Located magnetic pickup (reluctor) distributors for each engine, and wired the box up per an old 'Direct Connection' book. No multispark capability like MSD, but works fine. As the boxes are good for about 5000 on a V8, they should do for around 6500 on a six, or 10K on a four. Higher performance/rpm boxes are available. <>

If the engine isn't running, I don't see how the voltage can be going up... starter and other electrical loads will be draining the battery, eventually causing the voltage to go down. You can check your fusible links with a voltmeter: If you find battery voltage across one, it is blown. I'd change any link with a significant (volt or so??) reading. Sorry, I can't help with EFI stuff. Sounds like you may have picked up a 'deadhead' fuel pressure regulator to replace a bypass type. Not a good idea. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105947 I'd guess that you also need that vacuum/pressure connection on your regulator for boost enrichment, but that is strictly speculation. Life is simpler if a person makes only one change at a time. <>

My 240 came with Shelby wheels (look to be the same) so likely was a dealer option.

You have a PM with a lead...

And BRAAP Quixote remains true to his heart, fighting for technical accuracy against overwhelming odds... ~

I second the above thought... If you have a 4 wire resistor, one side is for starting, the other is for running. When the run side goes open, engine dies when starter is released. With the single resistor, start may run straight 12 volts to the coil, and run insert the dropping resistor. Again, if it is open, the car would die as soon as the starter is released. 64's were pre electronic ignition... If it is still points, possibly the flexible wire in the distributor is bad. Engine starts, vacuum advance moves the breaker plate, engine dies. I find it interesting that only Zs may have technical problems. <>

The only thing I can think of for the brake system is to pump fresh fluid through it just before leaving; that would remove any existing moisture. (Since the fluid is hygroscopic, this isn't a true fix, but seems better than doing nothing). <>