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skiboatm

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About skiboatm

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/07/1988

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    Owings Mills, Maryland

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  1. TOO MANY DISTRACTIONS... So I've not worked on this thing in a while... very frustrating. My girlfriend got a '93 Miata, which promptly had a head gasket go bad, so I've had to wheel everything out of the garage and devote all my time to that. Now that it's back on the road, it's Datsun time! WHEELS, WIRES, AND A TRANNY... So I've made 3 productive purchases for this project in the interim. I got a set of 16x8 XXR 002 wheels (got a great price on NLMotoring), a Qwik Wire chassis wiring kit, and a built 700R4 transmission. The Trans has a Painless Performance lockup kit and a
  2. Yellow octopus, very interesting article! Thanks for posting it GOTHLOSISM, I have the manual steering rack and intend to keep it manual steering. The B body LT1 hub kick the balancer out the furthest from the block, so it might just be safest to order a factory balancer and a performance ID balancer and just mock them both up with the motor in the car? I realllllly don't wanna Do that, but it is prolly my only option if no LT1/S130 guys comment on clearances
  3. Hey guys, Having an issue with my 79 280zx/Carbed LT1/700R car assembly. I'm missing only a few parts to get this thing running, and can't seem to get any "definitive" answer on it. Everyone that I've asked has been 100% sure of their answer, but I've gotten so many conflicting answers I don't know what to think. I'm using the JTR kit to install this motor, and I have the JTR guide for the S30 Datsuns. Here's what I think I know. 1> JTR kit specifies that a 7.25" or less balancer is required. Per JTR helpdesk, this is due to interference with the steering rack. 2> 199
  4. The gauge finally arrived!! After 3 weeks of waiting, I now am the proud owner of a SpeedHut 4" GPS Speedo w/ integrated 8K tach. Since I'm building a very simple dash, it's going to be the central gauge, with a few smaller gauges around it (oil pressure, water temp, and prolly a wideband and LED warning indicators. I will incorporate some toggle switches into the LCD screen section to run the fans and headlights, as I'm stripping all the stuff off the column and putting in an aftermarket turn signal assembly. I noticed a flaw in my design the other day... the MDF thic
  5. Hey guys, just wanted to show you a project I've been working on for a little while now. I'm putting a carbureted LT1 from a 95 Caprice into my 79 280zx and building it as a simple street car. Since I'm looking for a no frills kind of ride, I built the dash to reflect that. I started by stripping the dash and gauges from the frame, and removing some of the metal supports to open up the back a bit. When I was designing this in my head, I broke it into 3 separate sections: glove box, center dash, and gauge panel. I decided I wanted a place to mount my iPad on the dash, and a few critical g
  6. BONDO BONDO EVERYWHERE Before I applied the Bondo, I put the dash in the car to make sure it wasn't torqued all weird and would crack when I tried to install it. I found a few stress points, so I fixed them and patched it all back up. Then I started to go apeshit with the bondo and stuff, and managed to come out with some very encouraging work! After applying 3 coats, I sanded it down with 60 grit to see how close I was to putting a finishing layer on. I was surprisingly close, as I just wanted the Bondo to slope from the 1/4" ledge from where the original dash
  7. So I took the heads to another tech, who actually told me that for what I'm doing, the heads would do fine. Since I'm concerned about the frame being able to support the torque of the V8 that I'm putting in it, he said not to do all the head work until I'm installed the roll cage to support additional power. It looks like the valves are sealing properly now (put Maglight over the valve, saw no light seepage from the other side) so I'm really not that concerned about it right now. I started working on the dash finally, which has proven to be a little more interesting than I anticipated. I
  8. SO once I got home, I unloaded the trailer and cleaned out all the oil that had spilled all over the trailer, and then all over the driveway. Lovely. I separated the LT1 and the 4l60E because I was already planning to sell the transmission, and found that the motor needed more than a little cleaning. Once I got it all apart, curiosity got the better of me, and I started to pull apart the motor. I knew I didn't want to do a full rebuild, but I figured that a little peek wouldn't hurt. I'm really glad I looked inside, because it helped me identify some problems that I would ha
  9. OUT WITH THE OLD AND IN WITH THE... SLIGHTLY LESS OLD? I was lucky enough to find someone who wanted to buy the motor/trans from me. So far, I'd upgraded the fuel injectors, alternator, clutch, fidanza flywheel, intake, and exhaust, and it still wasnt enough. The motor was very snappy and had lots of torque, but it felt like it wound out way too soon... I just needed more. So I pulled the motor and started looking for a new one. So I started to remove the motor, which surprisingly only took me about an hour. I love how once I got it out of the garage, the front end was
  10. INTAKE AND EXHAUST... In order to get the car running really good, I needed to either clean or replace the old fuel injectors. In addition to that, I wanted a more aggressive sound and to clean up the engine bay, so I ordered the MSA 3-2 headers for a '78 280Z without the emissions provision and new MSA injectors. Since this is a MD car and over 20 years old, I don't have to deal with the nightmare that is emissions, so I figured it'd be one less thing to deal with. The old exhaust was rusty and already falling apart, so it turned out to be a really good time to do this anyways.
  11. SUSPENSION UPGRADES... After I got the motor running good and the interior stripped, I wanted to work on some suspension stuff while I was waiting on the carpeting kit from MSA, and so I started by replacing the worn rubber bushing with poly bushings on the front end. Replaced the sway bar bushings, traction control arm bushings, and control arm bushings. Then I read online that the older traction control arms were bittle and could easily snap if used with Poly bushing... something I should have probably found when I did my research initially. So rather than lose my front end while drivi
  12. AND THE WORK BEGAN... First thing I did to the car besides SeaFoam and change all the fluids (car had sat for a while before I purchased it) was gut the interior. As to be expected, the sunroof leaked when it rained, and as a result the carpet was pretty much ruined, and I figured it would be good to go through the car looking for rust anyways. As you can see, I found some. I ripped out all the carpeting and tore apart the cracked dash to gewt everything down to the barebones car. I've since Ospho'd the rust and sprayed it with POR15.
  13. WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR... It looked like this! I was very happy with the condition of the vehicle, and for $900 it seemed to be a fair price. The car only had 100,000 miles on it, and the only major drawback as far as I was concerned was the sunroof, which will be eliminated before too long. The previous owner had planned to do the JTR V8 swap, so he already purchased the V8 radiator and mount from JTR with a 16" electric fan, which was less than 300 miles old on this vehicle when I purchased it. He also tore up the front bumper, so he replaced it with an MSA urethane fron
  14. Hey guys, just wanted to find a suitable place to chronicle my LT1 280zx build, and I figured no better place than here! Please comment and critique the build as you see fit, I'm always looking for ways to improve the build. GOALS: I want a car that will be able to run the 1/4 in the low 11s/high 10s, and still be an "economical" streetable daily driver. Obviously, economical varies from person to person. For me, that means being able to get 20mpg highway, which I hope to accomplish with a carb'd LT1/700R4 combo through a 3.54 R200 LSD. PLAN: Aside from the GMPP Carb Manifold a
  15. Hey guys, troubleshooting question for you. Here's what I'm looking at. My car was slowly running worse and worse, so I pulled it into the garage to go over everything a few days ago. I found out the culprit for my crappy idle and misfiring was a cap full of water that had corroded the connection. So after a new cap and rotor and wire brushing the contacts on the plug wires, it idled fine. HOWEVER, when I tried to drive the thing, it still felt like crap. I'm gonna guess its starved for fuel, but this issue started right after I replaced the original injectors with new MSA OEM inje
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