Dudeboy
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Posts posted by Dudeboy
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Disregard my PM about the flares !!! But do check the front dust cap and wheel center cap for clearance.
Thanks,
Glenn
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I had the 18 circuit Summit harness !!!! terrible instructions !!! Turn signal and brake lights are a combination lamp. Also when you look at the summit instructions, you will see two
white brake switch wires ( one white wire in the dash section and one white in the column) and a orange brake switch power. The white brake switch wire will connect from the brake switch to the turn signal switch. Like you, I got the Painless and the Kwikwire instructions to make since out of the summit harness, called Summit told them I had problems with my harness and fuse box, so I removed it (did not cut anything) and they gave me a refund for it. I have since bought a 8 circuit Kwik wire harness that I will start on next week. I personally could not make the 18 circuit Summit work for my application, plus the terrible instructions and fuse panel issues. Good Luck if you can make it work for you.
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Pulling the dash out is not that difficult. You have to be careful with your wire connections. Whichever direction you go, try to have a plan for exactly what you want to do. I knew I did not want AC, but really need a defroster for the late evenings coming back from car shows (that is the plan). I removed everything, and installed a Flex a lite Mojave heater with a plenum to direct heat to the defroster vents. I am working on all my wiring now, I will post more details on my members project page.
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There are some chrome shops that can chrome fiberglass !!!I have a 77 and I removed the EPA bumpers - I am trying decide if I will 1. Buy fiberglass 240 bumpers 2. Paint same color as car 3. Have the fiberglass bumpers chromed.
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When my motor arrived, it had the headers pictured. I did not even try to use them, but I wondered if I could of modified them to work. On the passenger side, it is real tight between the Z frame and the LS1 starter, fuel lines (moved per JTR) and brake lines.. it is just a tight space. Get your BFH ready to make room for the tranny as well as, enough room to get your hand in a position to plug in your 4L60E transmission connector and VSS. I forgot, on the driver side the steering shaft goes through the driver side motor mount -that is the dilemma of the driver side. Are you using JCI mounts ?
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Man, That is real NICE !!!!
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Go to skulte.com. He makes adapters for high horsepower f-bodies and custom applications. As stated before get all your mesaurements together ( stock bolt patterns, hub size .... and the specs on the wheels you are going buy.
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Matt,
What alternator do you have? and was your Speartech harness built for a 98-99 f-body or 01-02 f-body ? the pigtails for the alternators are different. My Speartech harness has two wires on the alternator pigtail (1) gray (1) red, however I could not used the Trans AM CS130D internal fan in the 10:00 oclock position, so I bought a CS130 external fan alternator with the accssories. I no longer used the pigtail off the Speartech harness, I have a CS130 pigtail that has a (1) yellow wire with a 85 ohm resistor built in the connector that will connect to the alternator exciter wire and (1) 8 ga red wire that connects to constant 12 volts. Post a picture of what you have.
Glenn
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Look on Arizona Zcars webpage. In the customers gallery there is a nice silver 2+2 LS1. The shop that built may disclose some of there secrets!!
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Warren,
I was reading your last two days over on the DNI thread !!!!! You are right !!!I have been working two jobs ( no more, wife is finally back working !!!!) No sob story just trying to stay afloat. The family and I will be at DNI next Saturday, it will be a good vacation.
Thanks, I will return his pm. The pm was through the site notification and I was at work going through e-mail on my phone. I deleted the email on the phone, and when I logged on my computer just didn't see the message indicated.
Warren, I have to touch base with you and few other friends and family as well.
Thanks
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I received notification of a pm to my e-mail from a "riscard" from hybridz. When I logged in to the site, the Private Messages indicated zero unread PM, what is strange also, there seems to be no one listed as "riscard" on hybrid.org site? I can not respond to the pm, this individual seems to not exist on this site ?
Thanks
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I am doing a little each night after work and some time on Saturdays. But I think I understand this electric stuff. Right now I have the body, interior and engine wires ran to there location. I will begin to run all the ground wires this weekend and make the connections from the LS1 harness to the chassis harness. Hopefully, Sunday and the rest of the week I will beign to make connections to lights, dash, toggle switches and engine bay area.
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I have a re-worked harness/PCM from Speartech as well, but my alternator Delphi plug has a gray wire and a red wire. I sold the F-body accessories (AC,PWR steering and the alternator) I picked up a pigtail to adapt to my CS 130 alternator I have now. What alternator do you have ? Because that will determine if you need a resistor or not as tube80z indicated. There is a difference in the connections for pre 2000 GM alternators. Also, look at the letters on your alternator if you can - Is there a S, F, L and P ?
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I have searched on LS1 tech, and talked to a rep at Street & Performance. I am wiring my car now, and wanted to get this straight. 1. What alternator do you have ? CS130, CS130D or CS130AD ? If I am reading correctly, you do not have a pigtail coming off the LS1 harness connected to the alternator? Utilizing the Alt excitor wire may be your problem.
Go to the bottom of the page of this Nova Install - If you have the Camaro/TA alternator pictured the pigtail pictured is possibly what you may need?
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/63%20NOVA.pdf
Give Street and Performance a call.
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Coilovers will allow you to tuck the wheels in closer, stock suspension a lot of different things to consider, 16, 17 or 18 inches, then profile 35, 40 and 45 series. I did some searches on guys here running 17 inch wheels and 315/35-17 tires on the rear. I measured my stock wheels and went from there. No spacers needed. My suspension is the Tokico springs/shocks (no coilovers). I had the wheels on (without tires) and no rubbing at all. When I get some tires I will see how the tire bulge comes into play, but the way the springs and shocks angle in, I can not see it being a problem. I will be buying longer ARP wheel studs, not enough meat on the 32 year old stock studs.
By the way that is a good looking car you got there !! If you have your coilovers 4.5 backspace is not going to be a problem at all. Do a search on the guys running coilovers, I have read 5 - 5.75 backspace range.
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CALL Zak at Boze/ZE Forged. He can a make wheel to fit a Z four lug / backspace 4-4.5 inches 17 x 11 for the rears or wider. Look in my members album, I just received my wheels and right now I am trying to sell the ZG flares and get IMSA flares and run a 335/35 17 tire in back.
Good luck
By the way tell Zak, Glenn in Georgia with the Z sent you !!!!
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I found out there are two alternators being used the cs130 and cs130D. I have the cs130D and the connector I have is the right one. The pigtail and alternator I have should also eliminate the need for a resistor. I will see how it goes in the next couple days, I know I will have more questions and searching to do. Thank you.
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In my search to find the wheels I wanted, I came across the explanation for the "6-jjX14-10, and the "minus sign" does not mean it is negative offset/backspace. Those wheels are about at 4 inches of backspace. If you have a wheel off, run a straight edge across the back of the wheel and take a tape measure from the mount surface of the back of the wheel, and intersect the straight edge and that should give you close to 4 inches/ +10 backspace/offset.
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The backspace on my stock wheels were 4.5 inches. I have a 1977 Z, those look like 76,77, and 78 Z wheels. Your wheels are positive +10.
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Finally !! I have started to wire the Z up, Do I know what I am doing NO !!! Searched and read auto electric books, e-mailed some of the factory five cobra guys (learned alot !!!)This is what I am working with: Summit 18 circuit dash complete electric harness, Painless electric dash harness, Autometer electric guages except volt/oil presssure, Longacre pushbutton start-two toggle switch panel, Speartech LS1/4l60 E Harness and ECU re-program, Flex alite Mojave Heater, Ron Francis Hot rod light switch and Column signal/hazard light. Need to mount the heater about 6 inches back than in this picture, but I want to connect all my dash wires before I mount the heater and run my defroster hoses. Putting the dash back in, I crack the dash cover in a few places, so I need sand and re-paint. I have decided not to mount the LS1 ECU under the seat, I will mount the ECU in the engine bay. Also, I am using connectors from Ron Francis Wiring for the interior that are similar to stock connectors. In the engine bay I am using Delphi weather pack connector.
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I will take a picture of the connectors and post them, the Speartech harness has a two prong Delphi connector labeled alternator and there is a place under the alternator for that connection. So I also connect the big red wire to the back of the alternator. I will email Speartech ask about the gray wire witihn the delphi alternator plug. Thanks !!!
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I did a thorough search on LS1 and LT1 swaps and what wires to use to connect to the alternator. I also searched on LS1tech.com, and read many ways to make the connections to the alternator. This is what I have; 2002 LS1/4L60E going into 1977 Z, (I stripped all the wires out of the Z) I have a Summit 18 circuit harness that has large red wire and a alternator excitor wire. Also, I have a Speartech harness that has a alternator plug with a red and gray wire. I am pretty sure I do not use the Alternator excitor wire, from what I have read you need a resistor on the 98-99 LS1 -alternator? 2000- 2002 do not require a resistor from a lot more reading. My question, do I connect the large red wire to the alternator and also connect the alternator plug from the LS1 harness?
Thanks
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Can you post a picture ?If you know a good welder (or can do it yourself?)Get another set or driver side c6 exhaust manifold, you can cut them into two separate ports, and step them. You literally move the exhaust flange two ports rearward and weld in some more metal. I will get over to Jeff house this evening to see what he actually did with his, but I know he took another driver side c6 exhaust cut it in half, so that two front halves of the port are what you are left with (this is in a 78 280 if that matters).
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Looking at my 1977 280z service manual, intermittent wiper amplifier is on the relay bracket next to the ignition relay, above these two will be the rear defogger relay-on the interior passenger side, right above the fuse block.
Side/Fender vents for my 240
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I can not remember how I found this site, I have not got me pair, but they are on the list.
http://www.hoodlouvers.com/products.html
Glenn