Hardwyre

This is my first attempt at playing with the TPS, but I wanted to get some pictures up because I haven't been able to find any good pictures or guides for adjusting these TPS modules. If there is any feedback on this, please feel free to suggest changes, etc. I'm new to Z cars and just going off of what I've read. I'm writing this while I'm doing it, so it hasn't been "tested" yet, but the theory makes perfect sense. Here is the thread I found that lead me to rip open my TPS and check adjustments on it: My Z has been getting about 16 miles a gallon regardless of whether or not I'm putting my foot into it (though apparently I need to try driving it closer to it's torque peak instead of aiming for lowest RPMs when cruising). Also, I'd noticed she smells rich even under light throttle. As the quote above states, the TPS module, a '76 280Z in my case, has a tendency to migrate the WOT arm inward towards the rest of the contacts. When I opened mine up, I broke off the housing snaps because the plastic was brittle, so it's probably the factory switch. I took 1000 grit sand paper and cleaned up the disc and ball contact points, but had verified with a volt meter that they had been contacting earlier in the unmodded state. What I found was this: The channel that guides the switch is a three step. The first step makes full contact with the idle switch. (I'm assuming) the second step is for partial throttle. The third step appears to allow for wide open throttle and it is here where the other contact should be established. Between the steps are the ramps that connect the three steps. As I understand it, a properly adjusted TPS should break the idle contact just as you start to give it some throttle. What was happening with mine was that the idle contact seemed to be about right. But even before I was done moving down the ramp to the middle step, I'd already be making contact with the WOT side of the switch. I figure it would be approximately 5 degrees off idle and I was closing the other circuit. If I am indeed looking at this correctly and understand things, this could account for a fair amount of my (guestimated) rich running problems. I had already approximated the suggested 30 degrees off idle. The coincidence is that 30 degrees coincides with the start of the third step's ramp. As I said, prior to this adjustment, I was making contact with the second circuit all the way through most of the first ramp and beyond. So I grabbed a pair of pliers and GENTLY bent and tweaked it until it started making contact just after the second ramp started. Now there is significantly more gap between both contacts and the center pin when I'm in the middle channel: So now I'm going to go reconnect her, adjust it so the idle disconnects just as the throttle opens, and see what happens. A toast to analog technology! Edit: I noticed that she doesn't seem to have as much get up and go at partial throttle now but there is a noticeable point in the throttle where power picks up. This makes sense since she shouldn't be dumping fuel under partial acceleration. I so have a fuel smell coming from the engine compartment, so I think I might have a leak somewhere. Isn't there a dye and black light method of checking for leaks? Follow up: After running a couple tanks of gas through the Z, I have definitely accounted for an increase in fuel efficiency. I went from getting ~15 MPG to over 18. Next step is to adjust the timing and check out the AFM's spring. I have a wideband o2 sensor and gauge coming in so it'll be interesting to see her A:F ratio.

Ktm, sent you a PM. All in all it was asking if you MUST use a Northstar-version alternator of the CS144. The CS144 for non-NS Devilles is about $30 less on average for the same rating. I like the turn buckle you're using; I'll have to see if I can locate one. Probably end up powder coating it along with the bracket.

I have a '76 280z that I got this Summer. The seat leathers are shot, and the previous owner did a duct tape repair. The carpet is also pretty shot. I've heard you can use Miata seats, but I'm only finding them in limited (read: expensive) quanities. What are some other seats that will fit in the 280? I had some ebay "racing" seats, but the shoulders and bottom edge of the seats were far too wide to fit. Also, if anyone has any seats around the Portland OR area for under $300, I'd like to hear from you. Second question. I'd like to get a molded carpet kit for the Z. I was looking at Stockinteriors.com, but reviews seem mixed. What are some quality companies that people have had good experiences with? I keep finding kits for the OEM-style sectional carpet, but I think I'd prefer single piece molds instead. Thank you everyone.