MERCDRAGON

Well, new plan happening over winter break. I have some RB26 ITB's in the mail that I'm going to install over the break. I'm gonna have to do some more fabrication but after everything is all said and done I'll have an RB30DE with ITBs.

The company website is: http://www.rotawheels.com/

Yeah, they're Rota RB-R's at 17 x 8.5 all four corners. Oh and "hyper black"- basically shiny gun metal. The size makes it really easy to find sticky street tires.

Yeah I dont think high 300's is too far off the mark and from what I've read it is supposed to be somewhere between 27-32 mpg on the highway too, although I don't know how accurate that info is. My previous L30 had tripple mikunis and headers but before having the new thing tuned it still feels like it easily has more grunt. Sometime 'soon' I will also be getting headers for it and those should give another 20hp or so.

fully rebuilt block, sleeves installed as well Precision Motorsport rods everything ARP studs custom Wiseco pistons 86.5mm for 10.25cr fully rebuilt head (machine shop included 3 angle valve job) Tomei valve springs Tomei 256 / 8.5mm cams Greddy adjustable cam gears Greddy fuel rail RC Fuel Injection 440cc injectors new coils custom intake manifold Jun lightweight steel flywheel Xtreme heavy duty clutch Haltech E11v2 Haltech wideband O2 all Haltech sensors

I was under the impression that everything but mine required modding so thanks for the info. I guess that's something for me to look at in the future.

IIRC the 380hp engine had ITB's, too high of compression for pump gas, and wild cams among other things. I don't really know where mine sits yet but after getting the final exhaust made (one I have now is just so the car doesn't break windows), and preliminary dyno tuning done (for break in), I should have a better idea. So far by seat of the pants, this thing is more powerful than the 3 liter L that was in it.

-monster260z I imported the 30 block and then just dropped the non-VVT RB25DE head on. this head is a direct bolt on, no mods required. The 26 and 25DET heads can be used with some modification (for the 25DET it's pretty easy but I got the 25DE motor for $250 so that was a simple choice, and the 26 head requires quite a bit more modding than the 25DET head). The only problem is that the intake manifold bolt pattern on my head is that of the RB20 but with bigger ports so to get a nice manifold I had the ports and about 3 inches of the runners cut off the original manifold and welded to the aftermarket plenum (you can see the welds in the picture).

You should recheck your info kramerbuccs24. The RB30 was sold in the R31 Skyline and the Holden Commedore, and that was with a single cam head. Dual overhead cam RB30's were put in the Tommy Kaira M30 and used in racing applications. Somewhere, I think it was in New Zealand, there is a guy with one like mine except set up for track use and he made something like 380hp (I think at the wheels), so I would say that they can make pretty good power in NA trim.

I finally got to drive my car for the first time this past Saterday. After 9 months of off and on work on the weekends while also going to school, the car is pretty much done (for now), and it feels great. There are still a few things to do before I drive it regularly but the car is a '72 240Z and the engine is an RB30DE with the non-VVT RB25DE head and it has lots of other goodies as well. The Engine: The Car: Thanks to everybody for all the information you have posted over the years and to those that helped me on my specific questions, you have all been a great help in completing my project.

no Im using the non-VVT rb25de head and it turns out the vacuum leak seems to be solved. My dad did some work on the front of the engine at one point while I was out of town and when he put the timing belt back on he got the exhaust cam two teeth out of sync from the crank and intake. Started it after the fix and runs a lot better now. We are going to be tuning it and stuff this week to try to get everything squared away and hopefully I will be joining the community of driveable RB'ers within the next two weeks.

Thanks for the input. I had the idle air closed so it's not letting any air through, and the MAP is run directly to the plenum. i checked the vacuum with a vacuum guage and compared that value to what the MAP was seeing and they where the same so it looks like I really do have a big vacuum leak somewhere at the mating surface between the head and manifold. I don't really know what else the problem could be with the way that it's running. Tomorrow morning Im going to try to find the exact point of the leak so I know exactly what I have to do. If I have to pull the intake, hopefully I can get it back on during the week.

I'm at the last stretch of my RB swap but am having a lot of trouble getting the engine running correctly. I'll start by describing the engine: RB30DE run by a Haltech E11v2, with all the sensors from Haltech and the idle air control as well, it has the Tomei 8.5mm lift/256 duration cams and 440cc fuel injectors. From information i found on a similar swap I set the timing as: trigger angle 55*, home window 24, and tooth offset 5*. The problem i have is when starting the engine with the MAP set as load sensing, the sensor says around -2 psi at idle and overloads the engine with fuel and it can't run more than 5 to 10 seconds and bogs with added throttle. That leads me to bad sensor or huge vacuum leak(would have to be at manifold/head or injectors i think). When I set the TPS as load sensing the over rich condition goes away but the only way to get it to start is to give it quarter to half throttle and when it does start the engine runs anywhere over 4000 rpm(it does sound really good though ). I'm going to go out right now and see if I can confirm whether it is a vacuum leak or bad sensor but that is really hard because i only have a few seconds at a time to work with. Any help you guys can give me would be hugely appreciated and I know it's a bit much but if anybody on here is in the San Diego area and especially somewhere around Poway, I will be working on it all day tomorrow and if you want to help me or just check out the car and show yours off send me an email at stevedave240@hotmail.com And once again thanks so much for any help you guys can provide.

I searched the threads for machine shops in or around san diego and only recieved 3 hits and none had any useful info. Does anyone know of a machine shop they would recommend somewhere in or near san diego county for having some work done on my rb30 block. I need to have the standard rebuild work done like the tanking, etc. plus i need to have it bored and decked and the crank collar done as well as internals installation. Thanks for your help, Steve.

it's a jun style manifold and i kinda thought the stock would be safer. after some searching i guess i could try a 70mm or 75mm but the drawback there is needing a new TPS so i think i will stick with stock.

thanks and you will most definitly be hearing from me. i just bought an intake plenum today and the seller is asking what size or kind of throttle body i will be using. could you tell me if an 80mm would be too big because that and just using the stock 65mm is what im considering. im just worried that it might cause the same problem as over carburation because ive only got the rb25de and it would not need the same flow as the turbo'd engines.

last week my car was stolen and they theif ended up getting involved in a high speed chase, driving my car. he ended up loosing control and crashed and totaled the car. he even snapped the driver's side rear stub axle in half at the thickest part(the wheel came off still tightly bolted to the brake drum and flange) and drive that same suspension setup up into the trunk slamming the strut tube through the top of the strut tower by about a foot. my dad and i are both z nuts and luckily he had a spare '72 shell that we are going to use to build my next car after an outing to the body shop. i have an rb25de and transmission that i am going to be putting in(still need some parts). im going to be getting the haltech e11v2 as well but i am fairly new and inexperienced in efi and rb engine swaps and my dad is pretty old school and i was wondering if anybody in the San Diego would be willing to show me their rb z and possibly help me with the swap when i get to that point? thanks. Steve

well i got that crankshaft, but it still has to be sent. its a Callies forged unit that they slightly lightened. and my moms getting better faster than even the doctors seemed to expect so im damn happy today.

thanks for everything speedmon

well it looks like im building a chevy 302 with a large journal crank because my dad is trying to get me a forged, large journal, 302 crank for a present for me because my birthday is today and im depressed because my mom is in the hospital.

the reason i dont want the rb25det is because i dont have the time to wire everything(sensors, fuel system, computer) on that motor setup and initial tuning would be annoying. plus i want the low end response of an na motor because of a few mountain roads in the area that i love to drive. anyone from the san diego area knows some of the ones im talking about(palomar mountain and highland valley road especially). my original v8 idea was a carbed chevy 302 because i already have the chevy block with 4-bolt mains and the only wiring would be the ignition...relatively easy.

like i said im a full time college student but i can buy the parts over time if i get a full time job this summer. it should cost ~$4k total to get parts and build the 302 chevy and get it in the car and running. right now i have money for gas and thats it seeing as how i live in southern california.

i tend to agree with the v8 swap because im going to college full time right now and that would be cheaper, but i wanted to build the v8 in my garage if i did the v8 because my dad and I are building a chevy 383 stroker with afr heads and brodix aluminum block for his '72 Z and i thought it would be fun to build my own engine. i also already have a block available but its one of the cast iron 4 bolts as opposed to my ideal setup with the aluminum block. i also wanted a carb so i didnt have to deal with computers and the fi setup. thanks for all the input so far guys, it helps a lot.

i am planning on swapping an engine into a '72 240Z and ive narrowed the choices down to two engines but i cant figure which would be a better setup for autocross and other twisties. my choices are an RB25DE tuned to around 250 to 300 hp with the 25det transmission or a t-5 if it will fit, or an all aluminum chevy smallblock 302 with about 300 hp and a t-5. i searched but either theres nothing comparing these two engines or i missed it(sorry if this has been discussed before). cost should be about the same in the end i would think.