580z

any progress?

well, I have a 355 with a WC t-5 in my '72. Very streetable, but that may change after the twins go on. Keep in mind that first gear (if you use your stock rear end) will be nearly unusable..................

The autopower cages are quite good, I have installed several in cars other than Zs. I had one in one of my streetcars. Let me tell you, it did exactly what it was supposed to do. Not only did it keep me alive, but uninjured aswell (at least from impact, tiny shards of broken glass is a different story, safty glass is bullshit). I was however wearing a 4-point harness, but even with the stock restraints I could not contact the bar. All of my cars now have cages, and the Z is getting a custom cage this week! Tyler

well, the horn doesn't work, but I think I am just going to rewire the whole car. It would solve some other issues I believe, plus I would then know the electrical system like the back of my hand. thanks for your time and help tyler

I am using a points dizzy, and I can get the tach to work. But if I don't disconnect the tach, the car will not start. after the car is running, then I car connect the tach. I have read that the ballast resistor has something to do with the proper functioning of the tach/ignition system. Anythoughts?

I don't belive it does, but I will check during the day. I do know that it is a relay of some kind, you can hear it click as power is added/removed, but why would just the box get hot, and not the wires if there is a short? When I say hot, I mean painful, crazy hot. But the wires don't even get warm. It makes no sense to me, even if the relay was bad, then there would be heat transfer into the wires, there should be transfer right now. This one has me worried, I don't want some kind of electrical fire/accident. I am contemplating a full rewire of the car, I have done that sort of thing before, but I am not sure what is necessary to keep datsun so every thing still works. Thanks Tyler

I used the search function, and I was unable to find what I was looking for. I have the JTR manual, And I have read it many times. I was looking for a way to do this without buying a 280 tach and swapping the guts. I am planning to go autometer, but I was looking for an interum solution. The JTR manual says that for a points ignition system to keep the resistor hooked up as per datsun factory, but I bought the car without one. I'm not looking at my manual right now, but I belive the 260 is the cutoff. Does anyone know if there is a way to do this without buying parts I am not planning on keeping? I thought about switching to an MSD ignition (or similar). Any recommendations?

I have a '72, and I am wondering what is controlled by the gold box near the drivers left knee? It is bolted to the side of the car, not the dash. It has 3 wires connected to it. Something is wrong with mine, but I can't figure out what it controls. If I have the power wire hooked up, it just gets really, really hot. This leads me to belive there is a short, but I don't know what system to check. Any thoughts?

I am having a wiring problem with my Z. I am wondering if I need to have a ballast resistor to use my stock tach? The car is a '72 sbc 350 bored 30 over It is a non HEI motor. Here is a better explaination of what is going on. Car starts fine, with the car running I can connect the tach, and it works. If I shut the car down, it will not start again until I disconnect the tach. Do I have a wire crossed? Or do I need to pick up the resistor? I have searched the forums, and read my jtr book. So far I haven't found anything that solves my problem. (The reason I don't have the resistor is, I bought the car without one) Thanks for any help you guys can give. Tyler