boyracer
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Posts posted by boyracer
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boyracer, I using this Sikky shifter handle in my car and it relocates the top of the shifter handle back about 2 1/2". Check out the pic, it might work for you.
Mike Mileski
Tucson, AZ
Looks like a simple fix, on the fence as to whether I need a shortened throw like the MGW. Does that still work ok with the shifter boot?
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I freakin LOVE this MGW shifter!!! Best thing ever for my car! Extremely solid shifting and much smoother all around.
Any pics? I have the stock T56 shifter and feel like I'm almost hitting the dash going into 3rd gear. Does it stand straight up or angled towards the rear?
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I looked on Rick's Tanks website, didn't see anything for S30s. Is that tank intended for some other vehicle?
I called them, they want $1495 for the tank, pump, sender, straps, vents, fittings, etc. Looks beautiful and when you considered that price is for everything, really not too bad for a nice custom job. They're very friendly too
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Its aluminum sheet that goes under the airdam back under the core support and remains flat.... the turnbuckles gave the flexible air dam extra support so it won't flex under air pressure. It's really solid and works as well as I hoped.
Any more pix of this piece?
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For the driveshaft loop, consider one that bolts to the two bosses on the transmission tail housing. I considered it but didn't do it for fear of insufficient strength. I've since seen some torque arms mounted to those bosses, so I'm now sure it would have been ok.
Good idea, I was just going to remove that piece!
I run a 3" Aluminum.
The Boyracer driveshaft looks like a polymer-bonded unit. The two tubes are bonded by vulcanised rubber of various durometers depending on how much torque you want to absorb to save components downstream in the drivetrain.
This was the ONLY way Porsche kept the 917's on the road. The axles were constructed like this, and the telescoping and torsional absorption provided by the elastomeric insert was the only thing that could transmit the torque without shattering.
Curiously, if that shaft is constructed properly, with enough overlap inside the tubes, should the elastomer fail, the driveshaft just "sags" it can't come out and vault you. Some guys I know drilled holes to allow putting a screw in should it ever delaminates so they can wedge the pieces together and at least limp home from the track, or drive back onto the trailer.
Carbon Fiber does not require a driveshaft loop due to its construction.
Our times showed improvement going from 2.5" steel to 3" Aluminum. I forget how much, but you could feel the weight difference. We isn't think it would make that much of a difference, but it did!
That sounds like what mine looks like. There is some kind of rubber-like material sandwiched between the two tubes, may be able to see in this pic.
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Thanks for the pics. I haven't run the new fuel lines yet and I may add a DS loop sometime in the future so I don't want to go too big.
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Got driveshaft back from JCI in less than a week. John offered me a 3" driveshaft, but I opted for 2.5" due to close clearances in the tunnel-the first one was 2". It has the same wall-thickness as my old one. I stripped John's quick paint job off and noticed some welding flux on the welds. I wire brushed that to remove it (perhaps there was some flux on the welds on my old driveshaft making the paint crack (?) and perhaps it wasn't cracked after all) and wiped everything down with mineral spirits, then acetone. Anyway, the front yoke looks good, but the rear yoke looks a litte light duty (a lot more u-joint cap is exposed). I'll ask John about that this week. It is all painted now and ready to install early this week. I talked to John about the funny driveshaft shown above by boyracer. He said he has to do Jaguar driveshafts that way, but he didn't think he had ever supplied a Datsun driveshaft that way. Weird. I'd contact him if you still haven't installed it. He's really cool and I don't think he would mind.
Spoke with John and am sending back the two-piece DS for a one-piece, no problem. I like dealing with vendors like that, wish more were like JCI. After checking, the 3.5" end would have greatly reduced any room for an exhaust and was concerned about strength if I put 400-450HP through it. Likely not going to be any more than that, so 2.5" should be ok from what I gather, especially if you are running that in your beast, Keith.
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Wow, there seem to be a number of variations on this product and I am starting to question what I got now. My JCI driveshaft is 3.5" on one end and 2.75" at the other. Haven't installed it yet so I don't know how it will perform but I also haven't seen anything like this one as it is two tubes, one inside the other. Did I get someone's leftovers?
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White car gold wheels look good
I really like the white with gold rim combo, here's mine. I may get some wide gold stripes down the centre when I get it repainted white #904.
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Not sure but there is room for my hand to slide between the tunnel and the seat, albeit barely near the front of the seat.
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Those seats look great! How much were they, and where did you purchase them? I have these now, but would like to find a pair like your's in leather.
Got them from http://www.racingseatscheap.com/ for $986 w/brackets and free shipping. They are almost the same price anywhere and get drop shipped from Corbeau directly so the vendor really just processes the order. I ordered them on Tuesday, shipped on Wednesday and they arrived on Friday, was a real quick and easy experience. They look great in leather too from the pictures I have seen. What's wrong with yours? They look great!
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Just installed Corbeau LG1s in my '72 using the stock mounting points. Look and fit great, install details here: http://forums.hybrid...nstallationfit/
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I know people have installed these before but I thought I would show some pictures of the fit of the Corbeau LG1 seats in my '72 240z.
Corbeau bracket #C22011, mounts easily, no modification necessary. I used 35mm M10 bolts, Class 10.9 which fit the Datsun holes perfectly.
Bracket mounted. I needed to disassemble the bracket a bit to get the bolts in.
Seats installed. I used two small washers to lift the back of the seat up about 4mm.
I was worried about the seat width but they do not touch the door at all, there is a good gap.
They aren't too tall, similar to stock.
The colour appears blue in the photos, but it is black cloth. Material is good, better than I thought it would be.
Of course, they are a huge improvement over stock and provide a lot of support. I chose these over the Corbeau TRS or CR1 models as they have lower seat bolsters making them very easy to get in and out of. They are also fairly light, I didn't weigh them but felt close to the stock weight.
A number of people have modified the seat mounts to lower the seats in the car but I didn't feel that was necessary for me, I have about 1-2 inches of headroom. I am 6' tall but have longer legs so maybe that is the reason. I haven't put many miles on these yet so we will see.
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I get people talking to me all the time about the car, especially when I am getting gas. Everyone seems to have a story about the Z that they or their father/brother/cousin/etc. used to own. Haven't gotten as much attention with any other car I have owned. People like Z's!
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Not sure what you are intending to use the car for but on the street, you better have buns of steel with that kit. I have 225f/250r lbs/in (Ground control with Tokiko Illuminas) and it is very stiff already. Good for occasional track use however. I have no experience with the Cosmo brand but am quite happy with the Ground Control kit, many others here use it too.
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That's a great colour! Car is going to look awesome!
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what year driveshaft are you using? measure the pilot diameter, I may have what you need.
Thanks Xnke, but it looks like I have one one the way.
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the subi diffs have a 27 spline and I think the only half shafts ( things that to into the dif) that work are johnc's at beta motorsports. I know that the 280z's had some 27 spline half shafts, but they may be for an r200
I am using Johnc's side axles for this project but I'm looking for the input flange that connects the driveshaft to the diff.
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AND...another problem. This whole time I was thinking that the input flange would just swap over from the R200 to the Subaru R180 but that's not the case. The splined part is too large on the R200 so I need an R180 input flange to match this. Anyone have one? Also posted in parts wanted.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108364-r180-input-flange/
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Doing a Subaru R180 swap for my open R200 and have realized the input flange doesn't just fit on to the R180 like I was expecting it to. The splined part was too large (approx. 27.85mm vs 24.73mm).
I need an input flange from an R180 that matches the bolt pattern in this picture, shipped to 98281 or Vancouver, BC.
Thanks!
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Problem solved! Filled holes and drilled out the right size, fits perfectly snug now. And got some $1.50 grade 10.9 bolts to replace the studs ($12 each at local Subaru stealership). So now hopefully everything will line up when I reinstall all this stuff.
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Great, thanks guys. If it is indeed an R180 bar then the Subie diff should go in easily. I will give it a shot and just hope everything lines up and the driveshaft is long enough.
Now, just gotta find some rear diff bolts-any downside to just buying good 1-inch grade 7/8 hex bolts instead of the original all-thread bolts with nuts?
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So I am installing a 2005 Subaru R180 with Johnc's stub axles in my 72 240z. I removed the original diff only to find that it is in fact an open 3.54 R200, not the R180 I was expecting. So now, I am not sure if the mustache bar is from an R180 or an R200. It appears that the PO enlarged the rear mounting holes to fit the larger R200 bolts so that is leading me to believe it is an R180 bar. Also, as you can see, the bar was mounted in front (towards the engine) of the transverse mount bars and the top (floor) mounting bolts are behind the bar like an R180 should be.
I can not find a top-view picture of either bar so I am not sure if the bar should be straight or have the two bends in it you can see in my pictures.
Can anyone ID this one? Also, can someone confirm whether the R180 and R200 input flanges are interchangable?
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Concurr with Leon. You'll be fine with the standard pump if you stay with the stock injectors. If you go bigger, you'll need a bigger pump.
You're also planning on a larger TB, larger intake, an increase in flow capacity on you heads, at least 1 3/4"!headers, and a minimum of dual 2 1/2" exhausts - right? Either that or bolt on a supercharger or a turbocharger. You won't get the bang for your buck on the larger injectors of you don't improve the engines ability to breathe.
Awesome, thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure I was starting off on the right foot. No plans to upgrade injectors until I really need to BUT I am sure that day will come eventually...
Anyone use the Aeromotive Phantom Stealth Fuel system in the stock S30 fuel tank?
in Fuel Delivery
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Any updates? Pix?