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drzed

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Posts posted by drzed

  1. What is an acceptable amount of turbo to steering shaft clearance? I'm installing a much larger turbo and the exhaust housing is getting very close to the steering shaft. I have already installed 1/4" of spacers under the DS engine mount to rotate the engine over a little but don't want to rotate it more than required. Right now there is 1/8" clearance but when the engine is under load this will increase due to flex in the engine mount. My worry is what will happen at the end of the track when I let off and the engine comes back down.

     

    What kind of minimun clearances is everyone using?

  2. After much searching I'm still not clear on what to install for new fuel lines for the 260Z. This car is a late 260Z and has 5/16 supply and return fuel lines stock. Originally I was just going to upgrade to 3/8" steel lines as the engine and trans are out. But as usual, since I'm going to upgrade anyway I might as well look at what I might do in the future. If (when) we finally get E85 available in my area I would like to convert the 260Z to run on it - 105 octane sounds good to me and I've been reading way to much about 1000 - 1500hp cars in Car Craft and Hot Rod using this stuff.

     

    So given the increased amount of E85 I would need to run, now I'm thinking about 1/2" lines. I had a hard enough time bending 5/16" lines out of steel for the last car I did so now I'm leaning toward aluminum lines but I'm concerned about the E85 attacking the aluminum over time. Is this a problem or is this just with pure methanol?

     

    Also are the 1/2" lines overkill? I've seen so many different numbers regarding line size vs. HP that I'm paranoid about under sizing the system. The 1/2" tubing will still fit (barely) in the modified stock mounts so it seems like the way to go. Then if I get tired with the L series I can step up to something larger without redoing the lines.

     

    Oh ya, I almost forgot to add that although I have never had a problem with fuel flow up till now I have finally shelved the old Rayjay and am stepping up to something much larger with the capability of running a lot more boost so there will be a much higher demand on the fuel system now.

  3. I have been searching both this forum and manufacturer’s websites for information on dampers for my street/strip engine in my 260Z. It has been information overload and I am having a hard time making the final decision.

     

    My engine never sees over 7000 RPM and I only need the pulley for the water pump and alternator. I do however need to install the 4 magnets for my new SDS EM3 F setup.

     

    I talked to Chris @ BHJ and it seems that his product would work but he is about $30 more + shipping + brokerage than I can buy an ATI at the local speed shop. I talked to ATI tech support today just to confirm that theirs was a direct replacement for stock but they said that the V belt pulley was 1.770" diameter at the bottom and 2.750" diameter at the top. Can this be right? I asked him twice and he said it was but this would underdrive the water pump and alternator so much I think I would have problems on a street/strip car.

     

    Also the mounting of the SDS magnets is a pain since both ATI and BHJ are not familiar with the SDS requirements. Both companies are however willing to mount them if I send them instructions and the magnets. I am hoping that I can either mount the magnets in the front cover of the damper or better yet use my existing aluminum plate with installed magnets and bolt it onto the front of the new damper (maybe to the holes used to remove it).

     

    So I am asking anyone running an aftermarket damper to chime in and let me know if one of these two would be better than the other for my application. I am obviously leaning towards the ATI since it’s local and a little cheaper but by the time I'm spending $425 what’s another $75 or so.

     

    510six or anyone else running the ATI unit does the above sound right about the V belt sizing?

  4. Just to revive this thread - has anyone else found the professional products damper a little to tight or was this just a one off problem?

     

    I need to buy an SFI damper and am trying to decide between this one or an ATI or something else. I'd obviously sooner spend $200 on the PP unit than over $400 on the ATI but with quick guys like 510SIX using the ATI, I'm concerned that the PP damper might not be very good quality.

     

    This is for my 260Z which regularly sees 7000RPM at the drags.

  5. The best (not the cheapest) way is to use sprayed polyurethane foam (spf) on the car and then carve/grind to shape. Then pull molds off as per descriptions above. Spf does not cut with a hot wire like Expanded Polystyrene (white bead board - coffee cup) or Extruded Polystyrene (the pink or blue construction board at Home Depot). It is not affected by solvents or gas and will require grinding to remove from car so mask remainder of car well.

     

    Now for sources.

     

    Look under Industrial Insulation Contractors in the phone book for someone to do the spraying with the proper equipment if price is not an option. Otherwise there are "froth packs" which are small kits complete with A & B tanks and a one time use poor quality application gun - available from Steels Industrial Products. The pour kits mentioned above that come from marine or plastics stores are usually good quality foam but are meant for hand mixing and "pouring" in place - good for speaker enclosures and under floor applications in boats etc.

     

    Now if anyone in the Southern BC area wants to do this I own a SPF company with several mobile rigs and have done this kind of work before. We only do the foaming. We do not do any of the sanding or glass work.

     

    We have done several show cars before but normally do only industrial work,

  6. I'll second what they said above. Line-X is definately better than rhino. Another good one (up here in Canada anyway) is Armaguard and I believe there is another one called Armathane or something close. The important part is that the system is a 1:1 ratio as all the systems I've seen are (except Rhino). The Rhino uses less Iso and more resin and therefore gives a softer end product.

     

    Also try to look at a truck they have sprayed to confirm how thick the product is on the bottom of the bed. The thicker the better (to a point). At least 1/8" to 3/16" minimum.

  7. 3.90's should work out just about perfect. My 3 spd auto has the same 1:1 top gear as yours but maybe a bit looser converter. I run 11.17 @120 and run thru the lights at about 6700 RPM on a 26" tall tire. I have a little more power than you and a slightly smaller tire so this combo should work out great for the track IMO. It's a little buzzy on the freeway but I'm willing to live with it.

  8. I'm running a rayjay with the .80 housing and no wastegate - just like the old BAE kit. It works well for my application but it's not the pinnacle of turbo technology! Mine is fairly slow to spool but it depends on the conditions. With the auto I can foot brake and build some boost right on the line but just starting in 1st it probably doesn't build any till over 4000 RPM.

     

    I am running 19 PSI but I think I'm at the limit.

     

    In my opinion its probably close to a straight T04b - I think the T3/T04b would spool a little faster.

     

    As for the wheels I'll almost guarantee that it is an EE if its from a Z installation. I have the measurements somewhere.

  9. If its a regrind most of the local ones are either Shadbolt grinds (mostly older cams) or Colt cams. Both of these guys ground numbers on the back of the cam - facing the fire wall. Shadbolt cams have numbers like "M445" while Colt uses a slightly different numbers but the grinds are the same. If its a regrind look at the back and see what it says.

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