jmai86

Sorry I missed your inquiry. The wheels are 15x8 -25 Eagle wheels. This size won't fit without rubbing in the rear if you're as low as I am, you'll need flares.

Hm that may be the case, as the pair I ordered had some scratches on them. You can try contacting my guy to see if you he can get them for you. I forgot his number but here's his craigslist ad email: sale-84kmy-1547950594@craigslist.org (hope this is ok per forum rules). If you can't source another pair of fronts, you can always try to find s13 coilovers with steel perches all around. Just make sure the ID is 2". You will also need to cut off the mounting portion on the rear perches too. The trouble with this though, is that most coilovers with steel perches all around are much more expensive. However, with this route you'll have a much better set of coilovers with dampening adjustment and etc, and you'll still pay less than the available z coilover conversion kits. I'm sure EMUSA is made in taiwan just like all the other megan copies, which are not necessarily crap for street use. Track use, I'm not sure. But I have seen megan coils tracked. You COULD use front coilovers all around, but the height adjust ability may become disproportionate front to rear due to the difference in shock body length. (ie the rears wont go as high as the fronts, etc). However you could work around this by cutting LESS of the strut tube in the rear, so that the coilover sits higher than the front. The reason I didn't do this is because I didn't want to risk having my welds fail mid-strut and having it all drop. By having the perches pressed all the way down to the spindle, there is extra protection as the load is directly applied to the spindle, as it was designed to be. That and the spring rates would be the same around. *EDITED with more info

The serial9 adapters are not universal. They were made to fit Stance coils. You'll have to verify that the threads are correct for your specific coils. And anyway, why pay $500 for 4 tubes of steel? It's insanity.. these adapters were really made for cressida owners who just need 2 to do their specific conversions..

Haha ok ok yes you must weld it. I did. I just thought you might not have to, but I guess there's no reason not to. I got the extra perches direct from the EMUSA warehouse for 100 shipped. I ordered through a shop associated with them.

Sorry for the wait, I've been pretty busy. Since I don't have many pictures during the install, I'll try to describe it as best I can... I'll be using some photos from the racinjitter's SERIAL9 install found http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/2/2006740, since I don't have photos to illustrate some things. This install is very similar to the Arizona Z car coilover install found here: http://www.arizonazcar.com/coilover.html Some thoughts first: I originally used DC2 Integra coilovers, but they dumped the car undriveably low. If you do some research and measurements, you won't need to use s13 coilovers. As long as the perches are 2" ID, you can use them. I thought about using the serial9 perches, but they are just ridiculously expensive. I apologize for the crappy write up, but I didn't think to take pictures. BUT, it's very straightforward and if you can use you head you'll figure it out. (NOTE: when I say "perches", I am referring to the sleeve perches on the coilovers, NOT the ground-control type ring perch). What you'll need: 4x s13 coilovers with 2" ID on the lower sleeve perches, I used EMUSA coilovers 2x extra front perches, since the rears of the s13 coils are most likely going to be aluminum, and you need steel perches. These are teh exact coilovers I bought: "Special" Tools: Sawzall or sawing tool Dremel or similar tool Access to hydraulic press Access to welder (optional) That's it! Process: 1. Prep the coilovers you just bought: - Remove lower perches - Toss out rear perches, you won't need them since you have 4 fronts. - You can choose to cut off the s13 mounting brackets, but you don't have to. They don't get in the way on the Z. - Measure how much smooth tubing is inside the perches, from the bottom, before the threads start. This is how much of the Z strut tube you'll want to keep when chopping the Z struts. - Cut a notch in 2 of the perches, to accommodate the notch on the spindle that prevents the perch from sitting flush on the hub spindle. - Remove top hats, you won't need them - Re-use the top washer and one of the bushings from the top hats, and install as shown: Done! 2. Dissassemble your strut/hut assemblies. Disassemble top hats. 3. Chop off your Z struts, keeping 1-2" of strut tube left depending on your previous measurements of the coilover perches. 4. PRESS on 4 front perches onto the remaining section of tube. This will be a VERY tight fit, so you'll need a press. Press it on all the way. Serial 9 perch being pressed on, press on all the way to the base of the spindle: 5. After pressing, you can choose to weld the connection if you want. I don't think you have to, since it's a very tight fit and should hold with the weight of the car. 6. Thread on coilover bodies onto the perches. 7. Grind out the notch in the Z top hats where the shock passes through. You'll see it. Grind it so that the coilovers can pass through. 8. Slide top hats on. 9. Re-use the coilover top nuts 10. Re-assemble everything. 11. Zip-tie brake lines onto coilover body (ghetto but it works for me) 12. Set ride height and preload. Some of my photos: NOTE: These pictures are when I DIDNT weld or press on the perches all the way yet. These were just test fits! The weld-looking stuff in the pictures is just goop! NOTE2: The base of my perches have black spray paint on them The ride isn't terribly bad. You can use softer springs if you want more comfort. Just press on the perches to 1-2" of strut tube, and press them on all the way to the base of the spindle, and weld. For anyone who says this install looks ghetto, you can do a much cleaner job if you spend a bit more time on it and pretty it up. It's very simple. It's not much different from sectioning struts, except this time you're cutting most of the strut off and pressing on the s13 coilovers.

I don't have much time tonight to do a little writeup tonight but I got done adjusting my ride height, here's a couple pics in the meantime. I'll get together a post later tonight maybe or tomorrow. Fronts are a couple inches above max low, and rears are few inches above max low: Tires are 225/50/15

Unfortunately, I did not take pictures during the install. It is however _very_ straightforward. I'm setting ride height today so I'll post pictures of the setup tonight. And the coilovers I bought are only height adjustable, not damper adjustable. To raise/lower I simply loosen the top nut, and spin the shock body by hand. You don't have to unbolt anything else or spin the hub to raise/lower. Preload is adjustable as normal.

Just wanted to share my s13 coilover install into my 71. This is a beautiful and easy setup for the Z. it allows for height range of a nice 1.5"-2" drop to on-the-ground low. All while maintaining maximum shock travel and comfort. I'll have pictures up soon, but for now here's cliffs on what I did: - bought cheap e-motor s13 full coilovers for 400. - bought 2 extra front perches for 100 (e-motor rear perches are aluminum, no good. just use 4 front perches for all corners). - removed strut/hub assemblies - chopped off strut tubes, left about 1" of tube. if you have dead shocks, you don't even have to remove the shocks! saw-zall! - press on s13 coil perches onto 1" of strut tube (PERFECT fit. 2" ID on the perches, 2" OD on the Z strut tubes! - weld the perches for redundancy - re-assemble, using stock Z top hats -adjust ride height. Easy, effective, modern coilover option for $500. Other s13 coilover brands may have different perch ID sizing, I don't know. Other brands may have steel perches all around too. Just take some measurements