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marcg

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About marcg

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  • Birthday 09/04/1959

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    Kingston, Canada
  1. marcg

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  2. Two80z4ne, I have a fairly good overview of most of the steps I took to create the 450Z. Check out: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982/3 The 3rd page has most of the details. The wiring diagram there is too small and out dated to help you. Send me a PM with your email address if you need the wiring diagram for this conversion.
  3. You are correct. I got the car running last Monday and called Linda at SMP to see about track time and she let me on the Nelson circuit for about 2 hours last Thursday evening. Still feels like the clutch is slipping from time to time. We both ran it fairly hard (8/10) for most of the 1.5 hrs with the occasionally hard charge sprint at 10/10 for about 4 laps. The temps were good until we went 10/10. I may look into this thermostat issue. My son and I will be running this Sunday with the OMSC at the Mosport DDT. Like to see you if you make the time. Incidentally my son has a Z31 AE
  4. I have had some cooling issues. Still testing to see if I have them solved. I tend to run in the 195 - 210 range. With occasional peaks to 230.
  5. Yes they are the glass packed type. When I had just a muffler ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T41-cjlksyM ) it sounded a lot better, but did not breathe as well.
  6. Due to some setbacks the 450Z has been parked for far too long. It's now back together and seems to be running well. Hear it at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1gnwez41SM It still has a sort of raspy exhaust note though. Would this be from the resonator mufflers? Or should I have put the crossover before the mufflers rather then after?
  7. David,Do you have any pics of how you mounted the the autometer gauges in the stock location?
  8. I just uploaded a few new engin ebay pics to my Cardomain site. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982
  9. I know I don't post here as much as I could, but here is an update of my 450Z project. Since I got the car back from the paint shop (06 Dodge R/T mango) I've run in 2 autocrosses and one track event in the wet. The car is very strong in every way, although after the first event I found that the right front shock is "toast". I don't believe that I have bottomed it out. Still sorting some things out. The VH45DE engine is running very strong especially since I got the NICO ECU in it. It revs like my old L30 engine, yet has tons of power everywhere in the power band. I now have to make the
  10. David, Have you tried a softer pad on the front? It would give you better bite when cold and depending on how well the rotors control temps you might get away running at the Glen without brake fade. After all the Glen is not that hard on brakes, unlike Shannonville and Calabogie Motorsport park where you have several fast straights (~ 120 mph) followed by some ~55mph corners. The Glen like Mosport and Mont Tremblant have very fast corners so scrubbing off speed is not as intense. I'd be curious how your setup would respond to such a combo. We'll have to meet up next year and compare notes
  11. Dave, What size rotors are you running on the 1TUFFZ? I went to a large rotor so that I could run a fairly mild grade pad (ie street) and still be able to run hard on a track event. When I had my old 240Z I concluded that the brakes were powerful enough to lock up the 225/50-15 autocross tires at speed, but only lasted about 3 corners at Shannonville before they over heated. Yes I tries drilled and/or slotted rotors and ducted. So they were powerful enough, but I needed to address the heat dissipation problem. So I built my own braking system using Wilwood 11.75" dia rotors with PBR Metal
  12. Thanks for confirming that I am going in the right direction. I may still consider the dual master if it clears the left valve cover. On the other hand making brackets isn't a problem as I have a fully equipped machine shop available to make such items. Thanks for the link to the proportioning valve section. I agree that on a Z no one should ever put a proportioning valve on the front system. Although, I have a few friends running some very prepped (lowered and stiffened) MR2s and Fiero's that have severe bias problems getting the fronts to not lock up prematurely due to the lack of weight t
  13. Do you not think that if I kept the hydraulic system "as is" but, increased the dia of the rear rotors, I would then be getting more braking power due to the increased surface area combined with more effective brake torque for the same pressure. Would this not get the braking power back in check so that I could then be able to adjust the rear pressure using the bias valve.
  14. The problem I have is not with the caliper size but rather the rotor dia relative to the rear rotor. What dia rotor are you using? As Mark indicated if you go to a bigger caliper on the rear you will make things worse because your master cylinder won't be able to put out enough volume to make the pistons move out enough to apply pressure to the rotor. It's simple math to calculate the volumes and travels to check. I'm looking for a larger dia rotor for the rear. Which will also dictate using a vented rotor as a larger dia solid rotor is unlikely. I also have some Z32 rears floating around
  15. I have spent most of the summer dialing in the suspension and brakes of my 450Z with, for the most part, great success. The only short coming so far was that I cannot seem to get the brake bias to my liking. Don't get me wrong, the car stops VERY well, but I still feel that the rears could carry more of the work load then they are presently. I designed my own front system with 12.90" x 1.25" Wilwood GT directional rotors (RH #160-4564) and Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite calipers (#120-8466-R/L), loaded with the mild Wilwood "Smartpad" (150-8854K) to give me trouble free (aka "confident insp
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