Stevej

Hey Mark. I'm using the MM axles with the CV joints and I'm using the inner end stops. I know what you were thinking though, without them the axle slips in and won't drive the wheel nor the car. Steve

Anyone broken the innards of a vlsd? I have a short nose R200 from a Q45 behind an LS1/6speed used primarily for autocrossing. Decided to take it for a drive last week and had to have my wife come get me with the trailer. Started to get a clunk in synch with the driveshaft revolutions and the car lost the ability to transfer the power to the wheels. Once stopped couldn't move again, driveshaft spins the input flange on the diff, just makes a clunk won't transfer power. Up on jack stand everything spins and drives the wheels as it should, looks like it's just under load the problem occurs. Pulled the diff, thought the splines on the input shaft might have gotten worn and spun, nope. No metal in the drain plug, nothing looks out of place or makes sounds with the back cover off. If the innards of the vlsd get fried should it just lose the ls or will it completely stop transferring power. I'll get another diff from the junkyard to confirm after the holidays, just wondering if anyone has experienced this. I'm also thinking about a cusco or a kaaz, anyone put one of these in a short R200 from a Q45? Thanks

Have you swapped out the trans with the motor in the car? After getting mine together and driving it I have the issue with the aluminum 3-4 shift fork, it's popping out of gear. I have to pull the trans and rebuild it but it doesn't look like I'd have the room to get just the trans out, I was thinking I needed to pull the whole thing.

That was the same problem I had with the 240 rails, they didn't yet have them produced but neglected to tell me they would be close to two months before I got them. Ended up building my own and was glad I did once I got theirs. Headers are uncoated, don't have the EGR port, I don't think any of the aftermarket ones have a provision for that. Think everyone deletes that in the computer programming. There are bungs for the O2 sensors but they aren't welded in, think they send them to give you the options to use or not. They are 330 from JCI, how about 280, save you fifty bucks. You can email me directly if you like, stevejjohnson@cox.net Steve

I ended up building my own that mounted higher and was a little beefier. If you're looking for headers I have an un-used set of John's Cars for the LS1 I'm looking to sell. Steve

Just cleaned out everything last night and took a spin but still have the issue. I'm running an earl filter (which I cleaned out last night) before the pump and the regulator/filter after. Filter had crap in it from the foam in the fuel cell but it looked like it was flowing. I cleaned everything out and it's still 55 at idle and dropping. I'm going to order an adjustable regulator today and pull the vette one. Thanks for the input Steve

I'm running a walbro 255 with the corvette filter/regulator but only getting 55lbs at the fuel rail at idle dropping to 50 when I blip the throttle hard. I've been experiencing some lean backfires and flatspots/hesitation in the mid throttle and am wondering if it's because of the fuel pressure. All the numbers I've seen on LS1Tech are 60lbs at idle and 58 under hard load. If this is the case could my drop in pressure be enough to cause the issue? Is the corvette non-adjustable regulator a bad idea? Thanks for any advice. Steve

Same here on the Taurus fan. Using it on a 24x19 Griffin radiator wired just for the high speed side. Modified thermostat and lowered fan levels keep the car at 180-190 pretty much all the time. Looks stock in there.

Here are a couple pics of the one I made. When I pull it apart to powdercoat it I'll grab some pictures showing more detail. I shamelessly stole the design from pictures that were in one of the forums, can't remember who's it was but they should get the credit for the design idea. I think Ross was working with the guy to see if they could be produced for sale through MM.

Just replaced the collector gaskets and took a spin but it's still running off a bit. I've read on LS1tech that it can go either way with the MAF, so tuning software it is. That's fine, I planned on getting it at some point, this just accelerates the timeline a bit.

Pulled the plugs last night as I've read on LS1Tech that a cracked plug could cause something like this but no luck, they were all good. Pulled what was left of the collector gaskets last night one blew out completely, the other was in 3 pieces. Start with the gaskets and wanted to do larger plug wires anyway. Might have to buy myslef HPtuners for christmas...