[4n71B swap for 280zx]

hi all..

from my experience (looking at the bell housings where the starter bolts onto),

 

the tranny that came with the L28 diesel was the L-L,this has a metal by pass line that goes to the rear of the tranny centre housing>>>if damaged two ends of a brake line can replace this line with a brass cap and ferul connection...

 

the tranny that came with the L24 engines was the L-E...this had the electronic solenoid on the bell housing to lock the converter...without the computer controller, apply 12volts to this solenoid to lock the converter...and on this 12v line install three 5 pin relays, the first is to disengage the 12v power source while braking, the second is to disconnect the 12volt source while in kick down, and the third is optional...can be used for 2 functions...to disengage the A/C compressor and remove the 12volt source while starting the motor..plus a master disengage switch...to only engage when you want the "5th gear", >>>most people i have done this for end up leaving the converter locked...and the result is the car drives and sounds as a manual vehicle, but with a slow pull off/acceleration....

 

the 3 speed trannies have a much smaller bell housing and a smaller converter without the lock up function...though i have seen these to be more durable....

if i remember correctly, a 3 speed converter and bellhousing was used on a 4 speed tranny...the input shaft from the 3 speed ws utlised (the one with the o ring seal is from the 4 speed)..this was done for someone who constantly was stripping converters....(abuse!!!!)

 

i have seen some of the 4 speed trannies (L4N71b) that came with the single cam RB Turbo engines>>>bell housing RPE#1

 

and worst of all....the above mentioned trannies all come with different pump configurations.....drilling out of the necessary oil passages for the lock up function may be necessary if using the lock up function....but in some cases...the gears from within the oil pump can be swapped without any drilling...

 

i hope this will be helpful....

 

 

Adding info. for future searchers.

 

The best way is to use a 4n71b that was originally in a z31 turbo because it is indeed stronger than the maxima iteration having more friction plates/discs.

 

Use the maxima L24e bellhousing, flywheel, and convertor on it and it will fit.

 

The caveat is that you will have to find a very early z31 turbo automatic tranny (L4n71b instead of (E4n71b).

 

The E version uses a tranny control module but I haven't tried it with the L engine management system/sensors.......etc.

 

If the control module doesn't see what it wants to see, you won't get overdrive and possibly lock-up.

 

The L4n71b doesn't need a control unit.

 

Another possible problem is that the 4n71b from a maxima has a very low stall speed which won't allow you to launch with any boost.....it will come in about 60 feet from the start.

 

If the convertor from the z31 version has the same dimensions.......you can use it to gain enough stall speed to make a huge difference in acceleration.

 

If you're going turbo, use the turbo modulator from either a 280zx turbo or z31 turbo as well as the small rod that it acts on since there are different lengths.

 

One other possible problem is the downshift switch on the gas pedal.

 

With a turbo, it is easily possible to get the car going fast enough in 4th with lockup at part throttle such that stepping further and engaging the kick-down switch will cause the car to go to 3rd.

 

If you're going fast enough, you could possibly overrev the engine by a large margin when it kicks down from 4th to 3rd.........pretty harsh when you're going over 120 and it downshifts causing your engine to rev over 7200rpms coupled with the possibility you could break traction to the rear tires at that speed.

 

I rig a switch on the dash inline with the downshift switch on all my 4n71b trannies behind a strong motor.

[Distributor wiring, L20E to L28E]

hi,

i have read some of the threads and i see you have a lot of knowledge on the datsun sports car series,

 

i have a couple of junk yard engines i have started experimenting with, but as with everything nothing came complete, currently i am trying to sort out the engine control / ECU harness that came with a L20 ET engine(6cylinder 2.0L), this is the only EFI engine i have, all the others are carburetted.

it was in a toyota vehicle when i bought it, it was converted over to carburetion with a points type distributor i also got the EFi system but the harness was butuchered, the coil and igniter was replaced with a toyota unit and only 2 of the 4 wires were connected, it has the distributor with the can/crank sensor......

 

would you have a pin out for this engine, specifically the function of each pin allocation on the ecu harness, because i currently have 7 wires that are out of the original connectors.......

 

if you also have the time, i can send you pictures of the EFI manifolds/exhaust manifolds, heads & blocks i have and advise me on the best combination for every day street use/ fuel economy, racing is sort of out of the question with this project car, but a fairly powerful/economical engine is what i am looking for...

 

cheers

 

R-vin