johnc

There have been two axle failures on two vehicles that I'm aware of. The axles are from two different production runs about 3 years a part. The second failure mentioned above was in an application beyond the design limits of the part. It lasted 4 years. The Nissan half shafts are very strong and failures tend to be in the shaft itself, not the u-joints - unless the u-joint is worn out.

Sorry, one of the strut assemblies is bent, As mentioned above its most likely bent where the strut tube meets the casting. Does it matter? Functionally it's not much of an issue since you have camber plates and are building a street car (I assume - too nice for a race car) with the typical camber settings less then 2 degrees negative. It would still bug me but not enough to stop the assembly. I would go with what you have to get the car on the road and then source two more front struts (a left and a right). I would then measure and determine which one needs to be replaced on your car and then build the replacement strut. Swap them later when there's a reason to tear down the suspension corner.

Make sure you have two 240Z strut tubes and that you don't have a 260 or 280 strut tube. Take the hubs and brake rotor off and measure the gap between the strut tube and the spindle flange. Those numbers should be identical within 1/16".

Me too. But the LSDs in the Subie R180 are very strong given the size limitations.

Guys... these side axles were designed for an R180 and are limited to about 300 ft. lbs. of engine torque - mainly due to the axle OD limitations. You really should be running a R200 behind a LS engine.

If it's not leaking don't worry about it. Keep an eye on the pan and look for any oil seepage. Over time you'll stop worrying about it.

How do you plan to drive the car?

240z TOKICO springs are progressive, 260 and 280 springs are linear.

Contact John Williams (Dat240)? On this site. He's the one that made them for me and I think he continued to make the for Todd at WCR. Unfortunately Todd passed away recently.

That's factory.

So young... 54 years old. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52014-passing-of-todd-walrich-wolf-creek-racing

Chevrolet Chevette front springs are 200lb. In. Which are about double what are on your car now. You will need to cut them to get the ride height you want. All this has been discussed here before, please search. Tokico HP shocks will work with those springs.

They need to be crack tested, shot peened, and then cryo treated. Makes no sense to cryo treat parts without inspecting them and doing a proper surface treatment. Don Potter used to do that to new 280Z stub axles and companion flanges years ago. For $750 you got those parts plus ARP studs, companion flange nuts, bolts, and washers, 280ZX axle nuts, Japanese bearings and seals, and a tube of Wurth SIG 3000 grease.

Just wrap your legs in Kevlar.

Unless a spring is preloaded above the corner weight of the car, preload itself has no affect on ride quality.

It's most likely the ST 7/8" (23mm) bar. Contact ST for the bushings.

Could you attach the blanket to the trans tunnel and still meet the sanctioning body requirements?

NHBB and FAG are about the best spherical bearings you can buy. Tubing wall thickness depends on the load. If you're building a autocross/track car that weighs 2,000 lbs you'll run a thinner wall tube. A 2,800 lb street car that hits potholes will need a thicker wall tube. .095" wall is a good place to start.

Rust ridge on the cylinder walls? Frozen piston rings?Squirt some penetrant in the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Pull the oil pump and check to be sure nothing is I it. Pull the distributor and the drive shaft. Squirt oil on the bronze gear that drives the pump and the distributor. Make sure nothing is in the cam chain. Squirt some oil on the crank gear. Turn the engine back and forth to see if you can work it loose.

Electromotive ran Gotti 16" x 12" wheels on the front and 16" x 14" wheels on the back of their racing ZXs.

Yellow if you're slow, white if you're fast.

It really helps if you bring him and Bret a dozen donuts when you visit.

The Quafe is fine but there's no performance advantage to it over a good clutch pack LSD. ALso look into the OS Giken Super Lock. Better performance then the two you're looking at now. Part number is NS081HA for the R180 with a 115mm ID ring gear.

Not off the top of my head. It's been posted here before.

You might have the 280 hub spacer on your 240 hubs.