johnc

That is a good type of faure as Keith mentioned. You will need to check the tube for straightness and cracks.

I'm pretty sure they were using Ground Control's Advance Design shocks a few years ago.

BTW... The company that made the composite parts for me is still selling S30 and S130 hoods and hatches using my molds. Contact info: Benchmark Composites Stan Meleski 12024 Centralia St # D Hawaiian Gardens, CA 90716 (562) 860-7769 stan@benchmarkcomposites.com

Those structures were added to meet DOT crash regulations starting in the 1977 model year. They are a safety item. Your call on whether you want them in the car or not.

Is there a spring pulling the brake pedal back up? Is it connected? Check the fill ports at the bottom of the MC reservoir to make sure they are not clogged. Are the reservoir caps venting properly? Check the pushrod adjustment in the booster. After the install and during bleeding did anything overtravel? There also should be a return spring in the booster that should push the pedal back.

Does it take long for the pedal to physically come back up or does it take long before you move enough fluid to get the brakes working correctly? Do you have to pump the brakes unless you keep your foot off the pedal for a long time?

Condition and originality are everything in the collector car market. The 240Z is not to the point where its worth more then what it costs to restore it (a few cars are, but the vast majority are not) so slightly modified cars are worth about the same as original cars given the same condition. That will change.

Run unleaded.

Waste of time and money.

Are you running race slicks or DOT-R tires?

The bearing numbers have been posted here before. Shop those numbers on the Internet and Amazon. I used to buy boxes of 10 inners and 10 liters and got them for 75% less the what MSA charged.

Parts car. Pull all the good parts and body panels and then scrap it.

Racing slicks should never be plugged or patched mostly because of the constant high speed use. And you should run racing slicks on all 4 corners.

A lip will help creat a lower pressure area over the hood vents, but it's already a low pressure area compared to underhood. Adding a lip adds drag. Have you measured underhood temps at idle and at speed? Do you need to increase the low pressure above the vents to drop underhood temps? Will that decrease in onderhood temps offset the drag of the lip? I suggest you run the hood as is and measure. I've measured underhood temps with my racing L6 and it was within 10 degrees of ambient once the speed reached 30mph. That's with a stock style CF hood and vents in the inner wheel well.

The shipping boxes cost me about $53 each in lots of 10. They were custom made and were designed to handle a 280zx hood. Unfortunately I couldn't afford to order or store a lot of 100 which would have cut the price in half. Multiple sizes would have added to the cost. I made no money on picking and shipping, I just tried to cover my costs. I used to get much better pricing on shipping but the two carriers I used stopped shipping composite body parts due to damage claims. In 13 years I never had shipping damage claim but they didn't care about that.

Accusump is a good alternative to a baffled pan.

You're fine.

I don't know if the '72 or later switches "stick." I removed them from all my cars when I did any brake upgrades.

No its not a myth. On my 1970 and my 1971 and three customer cars that were brought into my shop the switch would trip and stay locked until you filled the dry circuit and pumped the brake pedal. Then you would hear a click when the switch reset. Whether by design or age/malfunction, that's how they work.

The center section of the firewall where the hood latch is is the strongest part. If, as mentioned above, you span the entire cowl box with a plate on the firewall you will have a pretty solid mount. I added a couple pics in my previous post and you can see the line of spot welds that defines the bottom of the cowl box. Add a plate the goes from there all the way to the top of the cowl.

No issues

Is the brake pressure switch tripped? If you did not gravity bleed the fronts first the switch has probably tripped cutting of the front circuit.

Fit up for welding should have the gaps no wider then the diameter of the filler wire. In reality there are times when that isn't possible. Get good penetration, take your time, and try to get it in one pass. Multiple passes can work harden the weld. Your work looks fine.

There are more fab pics of the STBs on my old race car in my Gallery. Basically it's .083" 4130 sheet welded to the chassis and tabs welded to that.

Don't hit anything. And, as mentioned above, inspect the chassis for structural rust issues.