ax75f92

Looking for a good condition brake booster assembly (may have master attached or not). I believe the Z boosters are interchangeable with the exception of the early 240's. Car is manual transmission. Located in Anaheim, CA. Please reply or PM. Thanks!

Looking for a good condition 240Z hood release cable. I need the whole cable assembly (my cable snapped)with the mounting bracket. I dont need the latch mechanism for the hood itself. Email: AX75F92@HOTMAIL.COM with a price if you have one! THANKS

Jacked up the front. No binding of any kind. The steering wheel is very easy to turn. I took off the strut to inspect the upper mount and bearing and it seems fine. The upper mount spins without much resistance and rotates on center without deflection. I also checked for play in the suspension with everything bolted up and the wheels in the air, everything seemed fine. It does seem to be noticeably toed out on on both sides so I am going to take it in for an alignment tomorrow.

I was thinking about this as I have experienced it before on my 240sx. However, with the 240sx the steering angle would noticeably change while turning at speed as the rack was moving (pretty weird feeling) whereas on the Z is it constant. Also, the Z rack looks like it has built in flanges that would prevent much lateral shifting. I will check out the bushings nonetheless.

This makes sense, I will check it out tomorrow and let you guys know how it went. The car is on stock suspension, however the struts need to be replaced as I can tell it is sagging. So effectively, it is sort of lowered lol. I have 4 cars and the wife is making me sell the Z . I want to fix this issue so the car is safe for the next owner. Thanks for the ideas so far.

Looking for a brake booster assembly (may have master attached or not). I believe the Z boosters are interchangeable with the exception of the early 240's. Car is manual transmission. Located in Anaheim, CA. Please reply or PM.

My cable snapped and Im looking to replace the whole assembly. The car is an early 260, not sure which years are interchangeable for this part. Please reply or PM. Located in Anaheim, CA.

So I jacked up my Z on the drivers side the other day to inspect the tie rod boot (which turned out to be fine) in attempt to diagnose some high speed steering wheel shimmy. After setting the car down and jumping in I immediately noticed the steering wheel was off to one side. Upon driving I found there to be almost no steering recoil after making a turn. I turn the wheel, let go, and it stays in that position without returning to center. After some research I found this to be a common symptom of bad/worn lower ball joints - so I replaced them with MSA pieces. Unfortunately the new ball joints did not solve the problem. My next step is to look at the tie rods or rack bushings since the wheel shifted off center something with the rack or tie rods had to have shifted as well. I know the wheel failing to recoil points to a caster problem, however as far as I understand caster is not adjustable on our cars. Also, I can visually see the camber is off, the drivers side seems to nearing positive while the passenger side seems ok. Camber is non-adjustable as well, correct? What would cause a shift in camber/caster on these cars? Any info is greatly appreciated as the car does not feel safe to drive at the moment (I have another daily).

Thats is def interesting. Thanks for the link. Another solution would be to throw on a fuel injected L28 head, no? I am unsure of which direction I am going to go for the engine (I may swap it in the near future) so I am just looking to get it to run a little better without investing in a new setup. I am thinking a good cleaning and tune on the existing carbs should do it. Just wondering where to take it. Maybe Ill stop by Motorsport and see what they say.

Hey thanks for the replies guys. First of all, I took another look at the carbs and they are Webber, not Holley...Im retarded sorry for the confusion. I snapped a couple pics of them in all their filth. The nameplate says "Redline-Webber. 32/36DGV5A. K8688" Again, thanks for the help on a foreign subject...if only I could attached a laptop to these things. =P

I tried searching this but found nothing. I have a 240Z with an L28 running a carbed L24 head. The car has been running fat for a long time now, but has gotten progressively worse in the last year. I know the carbs need to be cleaned or rebuilt (or replaced), However, I admittedly know next to nothing about working on them. I worked in a shop for 6 years. Ive torn apart, rebuilt, and swapped fuel injected engines many times...Ive never played around with carbs before. Is there a shop in the SoCal area that does good carb work? The previous owner installed a set of Holleys, Im not sure if this matters (harder/different to tune than SUs?) and an SA RX7 fuel pump. Any insight would be appreciated. THANKS =)

The closes thing they had was a BKR6ES-11. Im assuming it should be OK. In researching what the "K" signifies I came across this: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf In case anyone was wondering what all those number stand for. Also, is the 1.1 gap good, or should I adjust it?

Thanks for the replies Ill check the parts store for the BPR6ES-11 and hopefully they do the trick. Thx again.

The previous owner of my car swapped in an L28 with a carb'ed N47. Its been a while and I wanted to get some fresh plugs so I pulled one out and took it to AutoZone/Pepboys and nether of them could look up the plug by the Bosh part number stamped on it. They tried to sell me some other ones their computer said were the same, but after comparing the two side by side their electrode looked extend slightly more than the one I pulled from my car. Not knowing how critical the clearances are with the L28/N47 combo I decided to play it safe and not risk any piston/plug contact. Ive searched it a bit here and on other Z forums but really havent found a great answer or part number. If anyone familiar with this setup can recommend me a plug it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.