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Showing results for tags 'Master Cylinder'.
Found 5 results
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Im looking for a replacement for the brake cylinder reservoir for a 77 280z. I pushed a bit too hard on mine and it cracked, I guess thats what happens to 40 year old plastic. I cant find any reservoirs for sale anywhere, just the full master cylinder replacement. Thanks!
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I am looking for the spacer that mounts between the brake master cylinder and the booster for a 280z. I think this piece is the same for just about all s30 vehicles. I seem to have misplaced mine and am hoping that someone has an extra laying around they don't need. Let me know if you need a picture to clarify what I'm talking about. If you have one you can part with for a reasonable amount please let me know. Thanks Alec
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I am trying to restore a 1979 280ZX coupe. I am looking for the apron and grill pieces that that go below the front bumper on the 280zx. The people who owned it before me put an aftermarket piece on it and I want to make it original. I am also looking for a The part numbers are below new oem master cylinder or a rebuild kit. The part numbers are listed below: Master Cylinder: 46010-P6500 Grill: 62300-P7101 Apron: 62652-P7100 Apron Sides: LH 62613-P7100 RH 62612-P7100
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Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
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I ended up buying a 15/16 280 MC from Matt Hurr a while ago here. I am upgrading to 4x4 S12+8 calipers front, and 240sx rear. I currently have the stock 240Z MC and when I opened the box this is what I had . . . MC Fluid Cups Filters Fluid Cup brackets (to tighten around openings) Now, I noticed that I didn't have any of the bleeder valves, what type do I need to buy to put into the SIDE of the MC? Can I just take the Front and Rear Lines out of the bottom of my stock 240Z MC, and run them into the bottom of my new 15/16 MC? Do I need to buy any adapters? Finally I see a small hole on the opposite side of the MC's bleeder valves. It looks like a screw can go into there, but there is none. Do I need a screw for that hole? Bench Bleeding When bench bleeding, I know that I loosen the bleeder valves and have hoses going from them back into each respective cup. But what about the bottom holes (the holes that the actual brake lines connect to)? Will I need to block those? I will be doing the bench bleeding OFF the car, so I won't have any lines to block the bottom holes. I was thinking of doing the BB on the car, but thought it would be better to do it off to be able to do it slowly. But, please share your thoughts. I've already searched and read and found directions. But no-one talks about the bottom holes when BB off the car. Thanks Everyone for the help!
