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I finally got it out with a vise after 2 days of heating and soaking, didnt have to drill or weld anything. Feels great! Thanks guys!
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Damn this is going to be much more of a pain than I thought it would be. I got the majority of the rust off using a center punch and scraping the rest with a razor. I kinda damaged the thread on the bolt by trying to turn it with a vise and my stud extractor, so the welded nut might be out of the question, I also dont want to risk welding the block surface since I have no experience welding anything. I might just have to pull the block out if nothing else works. Thanks for the help!
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Rusted head bolt snapped. That thing looks welded onto the block, its probably just rust accumulating and hardened. What do? Taking the block out to a machine shop is going to be a last resort. I'm currently soaking it in pb blaster to see if I can loosen it up. Any suggestions on the best way to get this thing out?
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Yeah pretty much. I hope it wont be a problem, I guess I'll find out once I get it running again. Thanks!
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I turned the cam to get the piston at TDC in order to mark the timing chain position before I removed the head for easier reassembly. I'm just worried that I messed up my oil pump, because I turned it at least 10 times in the wrong direction.
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Today was my first attempt to remove the cylinder head. The idiot that I am forgot that I should turn the cam clockwise. I made several counterclockwise turns. Did I mess up my oil pump? I drained all the oil before doing any of this.
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I'm looking into gettin a ceramic coated header and the performance exhaust system for my 77 280z, I'm using ms2 and have an o2 sensor welded into my exhaust pipe. The headers dont come with an o2 bung. Should I buy the coated header and weld a bung into the collector pipe? It seems like a bad idea and might ruin the ceramic coating, or should I buy an uncoated on and and coat it myself after I weld the bung in? Thanks!
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Thanks for the reply! I think ill replace the seal anyways, then refill the transmission with new oil. Is there a lubricant you can recommend for this?
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I recently fixed an engine oil leak that made a mess all around the underside of my 77 280z. After a few months of the leak stopping I noticed that my transmission is also leaking at the rear where it meets the the driveshaft. I also noticed it only leaks when I drive it. Is this because the transmission might be overfilled? Or could it be a bad seal? If I have to remove the driveshaft, what's the best way to do it? I'll add some pics, you can see the oil drip and splatter all over the car. Thanks!
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Well I'll see what I can do about this. Really appreciate the help!
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I didnt drive the car at all, I let it idle and it smells like burnt oil. Its idling at 500 rpm, normally it was at 700-800. It sounds more like a tick in the video, but it actually sounds like clanking metal
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77 280z EFI. Its definitely oil, it's a wet black deposit, was not there before I had this problem.
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I had a slight ticking sound in my engine a while ago and decided to adjust my valve lashes. I had no issues adjusting them, but when I put everything back in place I noticed a knocking noise coming from then engine, and it smells like its burning oil, my spark plugs are all black as well. I dont know what might have caused the knocking sound, as it wasn't there before. Could it be a collapsed lifter or a bad stem seal? I'll attach a video of the engine running, you can hear the knocking pretty clearly. This thing is driving me nuts.. I try to fix one problem and end up with 10 new ones. 20180719_194207.mp4
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I removed all the epoxy and will use some blue loctite to lock the screws in. Maybe I should use some rtv to seal the sides to replace the epoxy?
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I took the valve cover off today to adjust my valve lashes, I tried to clean it as much as I could with simple green degreaser. Would it be safe to reattach in this condition? Or should I continue to clean it completely? The seals on the inside around the baffle plate look worn out and I'm worried some of it will get into the engine, some of it chipped off while I was scrubbing it. Is there any way I can scape off the old sealing and re seal the edges? Or do I need a new valve cover?