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Showing results for tags 'eletrical'.
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I bought a mildly restored 1975 280z a couple of weeks ago, from a dealer who had acquired it in a storage locker sale... The car appears to have been loved, and partially restored, but I have no real history on it. It had initially run great, and made the hour and a half drive home without any issues. I was able to drive it daily and it ran fine for about a week. The battery which looked relatively new, began to die frequently and required jumps to start the car. After jumping the car I noticed a fuel leak from an old hose on the fuel rail, and decided to replace the hose and the battery at the same time. After replacing it, the car started right up, but as I drove a couple blocks away, the engine cut out and the car would no longer start. It would turn over, but it sounded like it would not get fuel. Now I have a few questions for you experienced Z-experts. 1. Is there something I should have done before changing the line on the fuel rail? Is it possible that changing the line effected the fuel delivery? 2. The car only seems to have two fusible links, while all of the images of the I have seen, show there to be 4. I only have one "box", and both links are blue, versus the typical red, black or green. While inspecting one I cracked it as it was clearly corroded. Now I am not sure how to go about replacing. Any insight as to why there would only be 2? I believe the one I cracked may be related to the EFI. Could this have something to do with my issue? 3. Any other ideas as to why the engine might cut out during driving? I appreciate any thoughts or insights you guys might have. Excited to join the community and more excited to get this Z running again!
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I have a 260z thats wiring wise all stock. My fuel, clock and tach(sometimes) gauges all work. My voltage is stuck somewhere in negative so I'm not sure if thats electrical issues involving alternator but i don't mind that one not working. My oil and water gauge does not work. I have a newly bought oil sender, the bullet type water temp sender(is this the sender) with single bullet connector connected but the sensor next to it with two wires coming out isn't connected because they were cut completely off. I took off gauge and put battery + terminal to ign(G) and the black wire to ground. i then grounded my oil wire(Y/B) and it only moves to the 0 position. i thought it was supposed to move all the way? Is the gauge bad? Any help is appreciated as i really can't afford one right now and don't want to run my car without either of these gauges. Also how can i tell if my water pump is working? I have no leaks but i feel the engine gets very hot very quickly. I took the radiator cap off and i thought bubbles would come out or you would see the coolant flowing or moving but it was very still. I'm afraid thats also bad.
