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DIYAutoTune.com is now carrying a digital dash that fits in the space of a conventional gauge! It can display up to eight sensor readings at once. Plus, this gauge monitors almost all your ECU’s sensor readings, and can interrupt its display to switch to a warning message if you run into an unsafe condition such as overheating, leaning out, and more available warnings. Works with all ECUs in the MS2 and MS3 family, and also has three built in analog inputs. The NEW Perfect Tuning 24x Multicolor OLED Universal Gauge is enclosed in billet aluminum and boasts a real carbon fiber face plate! On-board LUX sensor auto-adjusts for day/ night time viewing. Perfect Tuning Universal Gauge at DIYAutoTune

I've been doing hours of research and have decided to get a boost gauge for my 280z with L28ET turbo swap. The problem is, I don't really like the look of any of the mechanical gauges. I really like the Speedhut one where you can "Design your own" and has an LED warning light: http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-BOOST-01/1/Boost-Vac-Gauge-30inhg-0-20psi-(w--warning) I called and they said this was an electronic gauge. I know that installing a mechanical one is easy, but is an electronic boost gauge just as simple? It looks like speedhut supplies you with a pressure sensor and sensor wiring harness. It seems like you would just tap into the vacuum line with the T fitting, plug in the pressure sensor to the t-fitting, and run their sensor wiring harness to your gauge instead of a vacuum line like you would for a mechanical one. Is this correct?

An Auto Meter Direct-Fit Dash Gauge Panel 15021 can be used to add 3 - 2-1/16" gauges where the current radio resides. Trim (sand) the sides to match the angle on the center console and you are set.

Hi all, Looking for a late style THREE wire tachometer from a 280z or equivalent to replace the 4 wire one I have in my Z. I upgraded to an electronic ignition and need a three wire tach so I have a working gauge. Thanks! Chris

Hi everyone, I've been getting some advice in the build thread I've got going but figured this would be the better place to chase after the issues I'm having since it's more technical and a better setting to get pointers of what to look for. So the background: 1976 280z with an 11/75 build date if it matters. Effectively stock, save for a few minor things and an L28ET. A couple issues that are electrical-related: 1) The system does not seem to be charging. Charge light was off with the car running. I ran the engine for a bit and noticed the fuel pump kept getting louder and the engine running rougher so I turned it off and found that the battery read ~11.3 volts. Checked the wiring at the alternator and it checked out so I started the car again and tested voltage at the battery and the alternator positive post. Both read ~11.3 volts. Had the alternator and battery both tested at O'reilly on their machine and it said it checks out, though I know that isn't a final judgement on whether or not an alternator is really working properly or not. By that point I had assumed it was the voltage regulator. Replacements aren't easy to get and they're either expensive or the shipping costs more than the unit. By the time that would all be said and done I figured I would be better off buying an internally regulated 280zx alternator. The alternator is a reman. unit from O'reilly that was on the old engine before without issue. Is there something else I could be missing here? I got a longer bolt/screw for the "E"/ground post of the alternator since the old one couldn't hold the wire and the capacitor at the same time. Is there some chance that the one I used isn't allowing the alternator to get a proper ground? I've also read things about how if the battery isn't charged enough the alternator won't charge, but I doubt that was the case since it seemed that the battery was at good voltage but gradually draining. I'm tempted to pull the trigger on a new internally regulated alternator and throw it in, but I would rather have someone point out what I can't seem to see is wrong before I spend the money on it. 2) The tachometer and oil/water gauge are not working. I know I have oil pressure as I verified that before starting the engine. The sending unit is new and I know it's getting oil. The stock tachometer coil signal wire is hooked up and I verified it at the resistor under the passenger side of the dash. Also verified continuity and resistance in the resistor. As far as I can tell, the gauges are getting the signal, they just aren't being powered. The lights do come on but after reviewing the wiring diagram those seem to be on a separate circuit anyway. According to another forum member, the 4th fuse down on the left side of the fuse panel provides voltage to the gauges. The fuse is fine and has continuity, though I don't get voltage on either side of the fuse. After checking where the fuse gets power from, it seems to be hooked into switched voltage from a black and white wire that is spliced in at multiple points throughout the car. Here's where it gets interesting, though. The fuse that provides power to the voltage/fuel gauge also appears to be fed by that wire, and I know my voltage/fuel gauge is working. I feel like I'm going crazy trying to track down the cause of the issue since every lead (no pun intended) I find ends up in me thinking that it should be working fine. Any advice is appreciated as always. Like I always say, HybridZ is the place I turn to when all my efforts seem to be getting me nowhere. - Pac Man

I have a 260z thats wiring wise all stock. My fuel, clock and tach(sometimes) gauges all work. My voltage is stuck somewhere in negative so I'm not sure if thats electrical issues involving alternator but i don't mind that one not working. My oil and water gauge does not work. I have a newly bought oil sender, the bullet type water temp sender(is this the sender) with single bullet connector connected but the sensor next to it with two wires coming out isn't connected because they were cut completely off. I took off gauge and put battery + terminal to ign(G) and the black wire to ground. i then grounded my oil wire(Y/B) and it only moves to the 0 position. i thought it was supposed to move all the way? Is the gauge bad? Any help is appreciated as i really can't afford one right now and don't want to run my car without either of these gauges. Also how can i tell if my water pump is working? I have no leaks but i feel the engine gets very hot very quickly. I took the radiator cap off and i thought bubbles would come out or you would see the coolant flowing or moving but it was very still. I'm afraid thats also bad.