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Showing results for tags 'haltech'.
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Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.
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Hi guys, first time posting here, working on my first RB and I need a little help! I'm having a weird problem with the RB25 I built for my 280z. I just recently put in the motor and haven't gotten it to start yet. I am using a Haltech pro plug-in ECU so that is helping immensely with diagnostics but might be part of the problem lol. So basically I have been able to crank over the engine but I am not getting any signal from the crank angle sensor, which in turn (correct me if im wrong here) is giving me no RPM signal, and not allowing the injectors or spark to fire. Essentially the ECU is unaware the engine is turning. I checked the power and earth of the connector, and also checked continuity from the ECU plug to the CAS, and made sure it was the correct pins for the ECU. Its a brand new wiring specialties harness. On the Haltech I made sure the trigger type was set to the correct one and opened a trigger counter channel so I could see if the ECU was getting any pings from the sensor (nothing). Every time I plug in the CAS with power to the ECU I do get a ping so im thinking the ECU should be okay? So, I got a new (used but in beautiful condition from japan) CAS and hooked it up, thinking that would solve the problem but it persisted. I found it unlikely that I would get 2 bad CASs in a row so I tried to bench test my new one. I gave it constant 12v to the power pin and strangely got 12v out of both data pins no matter what position the shaft was in (this might be just how it is but I would think you would only get voltage at the 1 & 120 degree positions?) I am just using a multimeter though so without am oscilloscope its hard to tell what is going on. Not sure what I should be seeing or if I would even be able to see anything at all. I have a series 2 with the black plastic CAS TL;DR Are these CAS sensors known to go out or am I doing something wrong? They are expensive but my next step is to get a brand new one from Raw Brokerage when they get them back in stock because I can't think of anything else that could be going wrong. Thanks in advance
