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Showing results for tags 'turbo'.
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This S130 has been my dream to build for almost 2 decades. I have always been a S130 guy, but started my Z journey with a z31 50th AE when I was in high school because that’s what I could find in my price range. Now I can fully realize this dream build! I am going for a reliable street daily driver with mildly improved performance but mainly just modernization. I have been working for quite a few years already and have started various sub-projects that may be of interest to other S130 people. This is one of the bastard models of the Z families so more sharing and development is helpful to all! The car is an 83 NA. I can’t remember when I bough this car, but my earliest picture is in 2015 when i started the rust remediation! Somehow lacking any starting pictures Of the external car ... the earliest pictures I found of the outside are after I had already tackled most of the exterior rust and painted those areas black. I was toying with the idea of alternative tail lights and grabbed some datsun tails from a junkyard to see how they looked. SiBr’ed some patches onto the floor pan. As the car was torn down, i found a sweet deal on a parts car with a seized motor. Since i needed the Motor out of my build to paint the bay anyway, I slapped the NA motor into the grey car and drove it around for a few years. I original bought the parts car to rob the black interior from once I finished the body work. I sewed up this center console pad to make my elbow more comfortable.
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Hey guys, I have a bone stock L26 in my '74 260Z. I'm in the middle of upgrading the drivetrain with an OS Giken LSD, aluminum driveshaft and aftermarket ZCarGarage CV Axles in preparation for some power upgrades. I've decided to keep the L26 in the car, but I'm trying to investigate ways to get to 250 WHP. I'm looking into turboing the engine, but I'm getting a ton of mixed responses on whether it'll need forged pistons, ARP 9mm head studs etc. I want to overbuild this set up so that I have a comfy safety factor and won't be overloading any components. Can someone help me figure out once and for all exactly what stock engine internals may need to be replaced? I'm also debating just going with ITBs and calling it a day. Thanks! My 260 for reference.
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Hi all, I've finally decided to crawl out of my cave and surface my build here. I felt like I was taking more from this forum than I was giving. My build used a TON of info that I was able to unearth via this site. My hope is that my build adds to the plethora of information on here and helps others as much as it has helped me. Anyhow, I've been trying my best with the limited network/connections I have to get suggestions on where I should start with jetting for my turbo surge tank set up. I feel like I hit a dead end. I know that I have to fine tune the jetting for MY set up...so I'm currently in the process of installing a wide band O2 sensor and a boost gauge. However, does anyone here with experience have a ballpark estimate on jet sizes in an application like this? I don't want to start tuning my engine and have it catastrophically fail or damage my newly rebuilt motor because my jets are way out of line. Here is my set up: Engine: L28 N42 Block E88 Head (Debating on whether or not to install my spare P79 head in) 280zx Turbo dished pistons .020" oversize 1mm headgasket Stock L28 rods 280zxt stock exhaust manifold Custom 2.5" to 3" turbo back exhaust T3 Turbo w/internal wastegate: Compressor: Trim:55 Inducer Diameter:50.5 mm Exducer Diameter:76 mm A/R:0.5 Turbine Trim:73 Inducer Diameter:65.5 mm Exducer Diameter:55.9 mm A/R:0.63 Triple Mikuni 40PHH Carbs Main Jet: 145 Main Air Jet: 200 Pilot Jet: 60 Pump Nozzle: 0.45 I was able to find one member on here who ran a similar set up with a bone stock N42 block/internals 20+ years ago. He ran a 145 main jet. However, I was not able to find out what size his air correctors were. Any suggestions on baseline jet settings for a set up like this? Or am I just on my own with my O2 sensor analysis? I have included pictures for you! Please excuse the mess, it's still under construction. Thanks in advance! -
I'm looking for the aftermarket center piece panel that goes between the tail lights on the 280ZX. To be specific the 82-83 years models with the black stripes/bars that goes across the lens. Also known as the third brake light or center tail light. Has "280ZX" written on the lower red lens. I've got one that got hit by a smaller truck the other day, so the top amber lens got crushed.... And also I'm missing the wiring. But I guess no one has the lens and wiring only for sale, so I'm looking for the whole thing! PM me. Thanks!
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Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested. -
This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
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Hey guys, I’m working on a blow through set up on my L3.0 flat top engine. I’ll be running a P90 head all stock with light blending and port clean up. Stock turbo exhaust manifold, t3/to4e .50 trim Garrett turbo. Haven’t picked the FMIC yet or piping. I know I need the oil pan and oil lines. my question is this, I’ll be using Atomic EFI (2) and a Clifford manifold. I’d like to use MSD 6al along with it. The TBI atomic has a timing control feature id like to use. I was wondering if I could use my NA dizzy and just lock the timing. Also if I can do this, how do I set it up to control timing? I’ve searched all over and can’t find to much on it and I’m in WV. There aren’t any Z guys around me. (From Florida originally) the reason I really want to control the timing is because I have a flat top engine. I don’t want to blow the dang thing up if I decide to run 15+ psi. any help on running this kind of set up would be awesome. Parts list etc? 😁🇺🇸 Thanks guys!
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I have an '83 Maxima wagon and have been interested in swapping out the engine for an L28, L28E, or L28ET, but was wondering if there was anything that I could do with my L24E to save some money. Would it be worth it to fix it up? Would I be able to get 250-300 horsepower out of it with bolt-ons? I know the L28E and ET could handle some large numbers, so would this block be thicker and handle more? I was mainly curious what would be the maximum bore on an l24e block, if there's info on that. I've looked through the forums but haven't found anything on maximum bore or what parts (besides the mn47 head) are useful if any. I'm interested in a stroker, or a turbo setup, or even just what may give me a decent power boost overall. This may be more of a question for our Aussie brothers and sisters who have more experience with the L24E from the R30 lol. Thanks in advance!
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Hello fellow Z drivers! I have a 1981 280zx n/a and recently purchased a turbo parts car for it (1982). My plan is to begin the swap soon but I wanted to make sure all my ducks are in a line here, as it seems like everywhere I look I get different answers, SO: To do this properly I am under the assumption I need: •the turbo motor •turbo harness and ECU •the power rack and pinion (for clearance) •the turbo subframe (whole sub frame or just the cross member?) •the turbo fuel pump (I was told they're higher output and that this is mandatory, again would love input here) •the steering column and/or the proper spacer (apparently the R/P will bind up the u-joint if I don't swap the column?) •the front struts (assuming that the entire subframe must be swapped, AND assuming that they are in fact entirely different struts, which Ive yet to confirm) Am I missing anything? Are my facts horribly wrong? I'd like this swap to go as smooth as possible so any and all info in this matter will be helpful!
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*Finally getting around to documenting my build. Will continue to update the text as I go. Happy to answer any questions. Feel free to also follow along on instagram for more frequent updates. I fell in love with the S30 chassis at around the age of 13 and tried to buy one or two as my first car. Unfortunately, being from the north east, anything I could afford had rust holes in structural areas you could put your hand through. After watching the price trend over the last few years, I decided I better act before I missed the boat. -Purchased sight unseen in October, 2018 from another member here. -The car started it's life in California, was shipped to Florida by the P.O., and then I shipped it back to California. I was living in Germany at the time, so the plan was to store it with my family and make trips to work on it whenever I found the time. -I purchased it as a roller since I'd always planned to do a swap anyway. It came with a lot of T3 and AZC suspension bits already in place, most of which I sold.
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i have a n42 block and a p79 head, i plan on using a 280zx turbo manifold and a protunerz 90mm intake manifold. however as for the actual building the motor i’m kinda clueless and wanna know some info on how to properly build it and what parts i should use for it. My goal is 300 ish whp and around the same torque, i want it to be a daily street car that i can still have fun with. I live in cali so i gotta go through smog and i want to know what i need to do for it to pass. Any info helps and any recommendations work. Thank you
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L28et not rev'ing past 4800 (like a wall) I have searched and can't find anything. I'm sure there's info on it though. I have a 71 240Z l28et megasquirt hx35 water meth 1.4bar low boost high boost is 2bar runs and drives great but only wants to rev to 4800. I recently put this engine together about 18,000 miles ago and it used to pull hard way past 5K (5500-5800 is where it would normally start to fall off at but I could push it to 6-6200) only thing that has changed is I've gone to sea level adjusted the tune accordingly 24 degrees of ignition timing 10.8 -11.2 afr (only thing I've changed is fuel). I've been going easy on it because I was driving it across the country and don't have a garage to work on it and was the first time Ive turned down the Boost from 2bar. Normally I don't rev it that high unless I'm racing or driving it hard (on track) and haven't really gotten on it really hard since before I drove it across the country... what I think is happening is my cam timing is advanced... while driving it across the country one morning I got up to start it to let it warm up and it backfired through the intake and idled backwards for a couple of seconds (sounded horrible). Quickly turned off the ignition checked everything and went to start it and it started and drove fine. That was about 2800 miles ago. Full Boost @ 3800 feels like it should be at 4500 or even higher. In order for me to check ignition timing on the crank I would have to put a dial indicator in cylinder 1 because there's no key way in the underdrive pulley. it's only been dialed in when the engine was first assembled for the offset to megasquirt. this is what makes my dilemma a little harder to check cam timing. I can't just pop up off the valve cover and check crank to cam timing. I may need to just go buy a dial indicator take off the valve cover and go from there and start turning the engine over. Anyway anybody else have this happened there engine... engine rotates backwards and the timing chain jumps on the cam? Ideas.. thoughts . Thank you for your time ahead of time and please go easy on me.
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This is my first post, I’ve came here for advice. im in the process of building my first major engine, a 3.0 l28 turbo stroker. first of all for ecu I am planning on running the electromotive tec3. ill be running a n47 block bored 3mm over 240z rods, and a ld28 crank, p90 head and 240sx pistons. im planning on running twin rear mounted garret g25’s with a custom ITB plenum setup, 2 injectors per cylinder, and custom rear mounted intercooler with air intakes in the quarter windows for the intercooler. now I’m not quite sure if all of this is gona work out but, I just wanted to post and see if anyone had any suggestions on anything I have wrong. .ty
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Hi all I've been working on this build for about a year now. This is my first build and I'm tackling it in my apartment one car garage. I figure it's about time I start documenting my build on here but there is quite a bit to catch up on so I'll just dive right in! 1974 Datsun 260z Running a 5.7 Alum Block Ls1 out of an 02 Camaro Fast Wilson intake Clevite rod bearings Total Seal piston rings Ls9 Cam Arp head studs Mcleod clutch (ARP hardware) T56 out of a 99 Camaro These are the upgrades I currently have. Much more to come and I'll do my best to update in real time. Here are some photos of the condition I purchased the car in.
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After much thought on whether or not I wanted to create a full thread of my first 240z build I have decided that it would be worth it in the long run and nice to look back to. I will have about a year to catch up with then I will continue to update as the build goes on. Backstory: I bought this Miata when I was a senior in high school. I wanted to see if I was truly passionate about cars and if I enjoyed working on them/driving them. This car was a blessing and a curse, I quickly found out that I loved cars and all of my money would be taken by them. Fast forward and I had supercharged it with all the basic Miata mods. The car was extremely fun, but it was not a car that I saw myself keeping for the long run and I had this long list of parts/mods I wanted to do to it. I had always wanted a few cars but they were just out of my price range; 240z, s2000 and a few old muscle cars. I thought about it and decided that if I was going to pour tons of money and time into a car I wanted it to be a car I wanted to keep and loved the looks of, not just enjoyed the drive. Once I had made this decision I was a sophomore in college and began the long search for a Z. I spent about 9 months of searching everyday for a s30, primarily looking at 240zs.
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/
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Hello everyone, i had a question regarding the sr20det swap into the s30 chassis more specifically a 280z. What needs to be done so that the egnine can get enough fuel for about 250-300 crank horsepower reiably? Getting a fuel cell isnt really an option since i plan to daily this car in the future. I was just curious what everyone else was using in terms of fueling in their ka/sr swaps.
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Hey everybody! So eight months ago I bought my dream car for my dream project. It’s a 1974 Datsun 260Z, but it’s no ordinary 260z. Here goes the story. One night I was just browsing Craigslist, looking for a possible candidate for a special build. I came upon an ad that had few words and no pictures at all - pretty much just his name and phone number. The next day I gave him a call to get a little more info on the car, and he told me the story of how he bought it from a friend 10 years ago. His friend was at a gas station and accidentally tapped a pole - literally tapped, only leaving a small dent in the fender. He didn’t want to get it fixed so he sold it to his friend (the guy I bought it from). Right after receiving it he started to take the front end apart to do a V6 engine swap, but he blew his back out right as he got things apart. So for the past 10 years it has been sitting on jack stands in a shipping container, untouched. The car has (I kid you not) ZERO rust on the body. The only spot that will need attention is a circle on the passenger floorboard, no bigger than my fist. He decided to sell it due to medical bills and the such, and EVERYTHING he has goes with it. That includes a full 280z parts car, new weatherstripping, full interior, extra dashes, disk brake kits, bushings, g-nose, etc. etc. I went up there a few weeks later with a trailer and dug the car out from where it had sat for so long. I brought the car home, cleaned all of the rat turds out of it, then pushed it into the garage. That pretty much brings us up to date... I had done a few things like starting to pull the original motor apart, but nothing significant. For the most part the car has just been collecting dust for 8 months while I worked on other projects I had gotten myself into. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car is VIN #49. I know that collectability-wise the 240z is the most sought after, but it feels pretty special to have one of the first 50 cars sent to the US from a one year car. That brings me to the struggle of not knowing where to take this build - completely stock, lightly modified, or balls to the wall nuts. I'm still not 100% sure where I want to go with it but I think it'll be in the "lightly modified" range. In the end I think somewhere around 300hp would be perfect for this car and chassis. If some of you think that's still a bit much, I was originally considering around 800hp! So now you're really caught up on the project. Below is a video I made for my YouTube channel of me going over the car and explaining the project a bit. If you'd like to see video updates of the car subscribe to the channel! I'll try to update this thread but I primarily post on YouTube. Also, if you'd like to please share the video with all your car friends! I'm really trying to grow my channel and need all the eyes and support I can get. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading and enjoy the video! -Austin P.S. If you have a better project name than "The Datsun Build" than please let me know -
Selling a few parts I have all located in San Diego. Just took apart a running 450hp L28et so I upgrading a few parts now. 1) $150 Fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator combo deal. Will work for barbed or o-ring style injectors. Will come with adapters for o-ring 2) $200 shaven and clean webbed intake manifold. Cut off the web part and semi polished. Egr all closed up for a clean look 3) $250 Turbo exhaust manifold with welded in external wastegate flange. Had a Tial 38mm wastegate. 4) $150 Tial 38mm wastegate silver. 5) $275 Deka 550cc low imp injectors -
Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: Exhaust 3in SS Mandrel Bend Walker Exhaust 15034 MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419 LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon) Brakes Centric Slotted Rotors Centric Calipers New Brake Master Cylinder New Brake Booster Stainless Steel Brake Lines Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads Ignition NGK 4291 Spark Plugs NGK 8mm Wires Transmission Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder New O2 Sensor New PCV Valve New Fuel Filter (Soon) I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20. I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? I plan to log more often and with more pictures. Upcoming New injectors Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm Walboro 255 Fuel Pump Inline fuel filter Fram G3
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1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
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Where to install Electronic Boost Controller
AlbatrossCafe posted a topic in Ignition and Electrical
I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical? If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant? The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger than the one going into the EBC - how should I best address this step down and step up in size without a ton of awkward connections? EBC (#1): Install Location (#2): Hose to wastegate is different size than EBC connection (#4): -
I am looking for a used aftermarket down pipe for a l28et specifically for an S30 by MSA.
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Hey all, Firstly thanks for clicking on my build thread and taking the time to read/look at the pictures. So where do I start, if you read my new members post you will see I picked up this 280z from a friend in a trade deal whereby I swapped my home built s2000 turbo (some say I'm crazy to get rid of it but bah, what the hell.. I knew the s2000 was going to a good home and I love old Z cars.) Here it is when I went round to view it at my friends house... I instantly fell in love... I knew I just had to have it! It already had the SR20DET swap which is a little rough round the edges, but in the PO defence, he had 28 day warranty on the engine so had to get it into the car as soon as he could to make sure it checked out OK. This wasn't long after he had it all up and running. I drove home that night with a huge smile on my face knowing I would be a Z car owner!! My dream car was going to be mine. So the day came to swap the cars, here is an image of the 2 cars together..
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Hey guys, Just wanted to let you know how my Gpop shop turbo rebuild went in case anyone was looking at going to them: http://gpopshop.com/ Before: 1982 L28ET Garret AiResearch stock T3 turbo After: Upgraded into T3/T4 hybrid with T4 .50 trim compressor wheel and Stage III exhaust turbine. All moving components rebuilt/replaced if applicable. Review: So far, I am very satisfied with their work. When they said "we will make your turbo like new" I was skeptical. They took my 35 year old turbo and genuinely made it better than it was when it was new back in 1982. Externally, it looks great. I decided to have Gpop upgrade my stock turbo because I didn't want to deal with fabbing up external wastegates or put in spacers to get something aftermarket to fit. The cost (~$900 btw) was comparable to buying a new Garrett hybrid and in the end I get something that I know will bolt right in AND has a warranty to boot. Also, their customer service was awesome. I say "Externally, it looks great" cus I haven't finished putting together my engine yet 🙃 I'll update the review with actual performance "soon"!
