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Showing results for tags 'spark plug'.
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Hey Guys, I'm a relatively new Z owner.. I bought a 1971 240Z at the end of summer, and I've been trying to get it into top running form. One of the previous owners put alot of work into it, but one thing that has been giving me a headache is trying to figure out what to do with the ignition system.. I've done alot of searches, and research, but the more I learn the more I don't know what to do. Basically I would like to upgrade from the old points system to electronic ignition, and just get the best possible setup. From what I've read It seems everyone has a different opinion on which way to go.. It currently has an Accel super coil, but after reading the specs online I'm a bit worried about the part where it says "Effective up to 6500rpm". My 240 has a .280 cam and has been balanced to handle high Rpms, and although I don't like to do it, it will go past 7500rpm.. But now that I'm thinking about it I'm not sure its really pulling as hard as it should past 6500. Maybe I'm just imagining that though. (I would go test it right now, but since I can't get it through emissions testing I can't put regular insurance on it, which means expensive permits.. That and I avoid the wet weather like the plague.) I would like the ignition to handle up to 8000rpm to take advantage of the cam, not that I plan on taking it that high very often.. Then theres theres upgrading to electronic ignition.. I'd like something easy to upgrade where I won't have to replace the Tach.. Pertronix sells a kit which sounds like an easy upgrade, but I'm not sure if it will work with my coil, which I don't know if I should keep... And it all needs to look original, or be from the 70's-80's period for my car to qualify for a local Vintage car race I'd like to take part in.. ahhh, that headache is coming on again Part of this upgrade is to try and get the car running as efficiently as possible to help with the emissions testing.. If I can squeze it through without having to get it specially tuned, and retuned, while spending the money on what I should be upgrading anyways I'll be very happy. I'm really at a loss to which way I should go here.. Any advice that you guys could give would really help.
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Hello all, I'm having a frustrating problem and I wanted to get some opinions. I've searched quite a bit but haven't found anything that either I haven't tried or was relevant. That back story: I have a built 3.1L stroker (not done on the cheap) with E31 head running somewhere north of 11:1 compression. The most runs well with good compression across all cylinders. The head has had a sigfnificant amount of work done. Another piece of infromation is that it has a timesert in sparkplug hole number 3 due to an issue with the head that predates me. I'm running triple webers and Electromotive HPX ignition. I AM running PCV, as using advice from Tony D I created a vacuum log with a restrictor on one end for the PCV valve (mounted to a grommet which is mounted where the pipe once was all pressure fit). So I THINK I'm exacuating pressure from the crankcase. I have no other leaks that I know of. Engine mileage is 1200. Onto the issue: Symptom #1: On cylinder number 3, I have a small amount of oil coming out of the spark plug hole while the engine runs. As I drive, it slowly works it's way down the side of the block and makes a mess of things. Symptom #2: When the engine starts after sitting for more than a few hours, I get a greyish smoke while I idle. Once I drive off into the sunset, the smoke dies off and doesn't reappear until the car has been off for several hours. Things I have checked: Valve Cover Gasket - it doesn't leak and the oil clearly originates from the spark plug hole. Spark Plug Torque: It's well torqued, but even it if it wasn't, you would expect something other than oil to escape. Valve Seals - I replaced them last night and the problem persists. Ignition - the plug is firing correctly, so I wouldn't think it's unspent fuel coming out. I'm not running overly rich either, 12.5 at idle. 13ish -.13.8 at WOT on the idle/progression circuits and 13.0ish on the main circuit. And now on to what's left for my theories: Head cracked - Lord, I hope not. Oil passage nicked - Along the above lines, do the oil passages run anywhere close to the spark plug holes that a timesert may have affected. Oil passage nicked - I assume there is way too much metal in the combustion chamber that the machine shop doing the head work could have gotten close to oil passages? Bad oil control rings - If I had a bad oil control ring, would I not be BURNING oil consistently rather than for a few moments at startup (aka like when you have bad valve stem seals)? Also, would it be possible for oil to find it's way all the way up the cylinder wall and out a spark plug hole? Bad head gasket - I have an HKS 1mm head gasket on now. The problem existed with an HKS 2mm head gasket as well. Using ARP studs torqued to spec. Of all those, I would prefer one of the last two to be the case even though I don't relish pulling the engine anytime soon. The oil comes out clean with no antifreeze or anything else in it when drained. The antifreeze looks good. Thanks, Brett (this is crossposted over at classiczcars.com as well)
