ktm Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I installed JCI's engine mounts over the weekend and started preparing the transmission tunnel as well. JCI's engine mount for the passenger side has a bolt hole that lines up with the hole in the crossmember tower. I did not see in JCI's manual where this called to be bolted together like the driver's side. I re-read the manual a few times and searched Hybridz but to no avail. It seems to me that this should be bolted up or else the mount itself will flex. I started work on the transmission tunnel as well and took a few measurements to locate the area on the tunnel requiring clearance for the 4L60E. I know that it is the servo housing on the transmission the requires the tunnel to be clearanced. The area I've identified is shown in the picture below outlined by the red ellipse. Does this look correct? How far up from the bottom of the tunnel must be clearanced? I do not know the relative position of the trans bottom to the tunnel bottom. The archives talk about clearancing the tunnel but mainly focus on the T56; those threads that discuss the 4L60E make no mention of the area nor provide a picture showing. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators SuperDan Posted June 6, 2011 Administrators Share Posted June 6, 2011 JCI's engine mount for the passenger side has a bolt hole that lines up with the hole in the crossmember tower. I did not see in JCI's manual where this called to be bolted together like the driver's side. I re-read the manual a few times and searched Hybridz but to no avail. It seems to me that this should be bolted up or else the mount itself will flex. Yes, put a bolt in it. I started work on the transmission tunnel as well and took a few measurements to locate the area on the tunnel requiring clearance for the 4L60E. I know that it is the servo housing on the transmission the requires the tunnel to be clearanced. The area I've identified is shown in the picture below outlined by the red ellipse. Does this look correct? How far up from the bottom of the tunnel must be clearanced? I do not know the relative position of the trans bottom to the tunnel bottom. The archives talk about clearancing the tunnel but mainly focus on the T56; those threads that discuss the 4L60E make no mention of the area nor provide a picture showing. Here is a pic of my 72 with a 4L60E and were I cut to make clearence for the pan and servo. Also keep in mind, the cooler fittings are real close depending on the type of elbows you use and need clearencing too. http://forums.hybrid...11-img-5659jpg/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) I do not know if there is a difference between the 72 240 transmission tunnel and a 75-78 280 transmission tunnel, But I will tell you on my 1977 280, I had to take out the BFH (BIG F****HAMMER) to the tunnel on the passenger side for clearance and to have the ability to reach your hand up and over to plug in the ECM harness conector to the 4L60E. Also, the area I had to massage was just below the passenger firewall, were the bellhousing and engine connects. Before, I drop the engine and transmission in, I had did some banging in the tunnel but it was not enough in the right areas. I hope to get back on mines in a month, if you need a photo I can head over to garage and get a picture for you. Glenn A. Edited June 7, 2011 by Dudeboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Dudeboy, it sounds like the same area as shown by Dan's picture and my circled area. You can see the seam between the firewall and passenger area. I was wondering about that big honkin ECM plug. I have a few BFHs; as a matter of fact I had to use one on the JCI mount that "slips" into the driver's side tower. Yah, right. At least there is no slop there. I plan on using either a hydraulic jack or a scissor jack to push out some room....at least that is the plan until it doesn't work and then out come the hammers. Edited June 7, 2011 by ktm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I have the JCI kit with an LM7 engine with the 4l60E transmission into a Series I 240Z. Narrow transmission tunnel. Four areas for massage work: 1. Passenger's side for the AT governor (actually two places, but they are pretty clear in Dan's photo) 2. Right around the transition from firewall to transmission tunnel on passenger side (this is to clear the AT oil lines) and on the driver's side to clear the transmission shift lever. The last is needed only if you are running the stock AT shift lever with a rod over to AT shift lever. Think LOCAR adjustible shift lever mounted "UP" . You will need to clearance this area to allow for access and to prevent the rod and lever from body interferance. Not necessary if you are using aftermarket cable shifter. Pounding with a BFH is pretty much "hit or miss". The sides absorb the blow and then they bounce back and there really is limited space to really swing, even a small single jack. If you have air, use a short stroke air hammer with a planishing tip (Looks like a panel pounder's hammer, round and not quite flat ... a bit concave.) This with a small amount of heat from a MAP gas torch will allow you to smoothly move the metal. Be careful because you can also punch through the metal. Also, very loud, use ear plugs. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Subbed for future info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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