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zgeezer

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Everything posted by zgeezer

  1. What are you actually looking for: the entire shift mechanism or only the chrome plated arm that is attached to the transmission actuating lever?
  2. If you are using JTR's radiator and mounting, a Lincoln Mark VIII two speed fan with shroud is a perfect fit. Need only cut out a portion of the shroud to give more room to remove the radiator hoses. Two "L" shaped brackets for the bottom , 4 pop rivets to secure the brackets to the bottom of the JTR bottom mounting bracket and you are ready to go. Flashes 50 amps on startup..Big fuse and relays recommended. Some Thunderbirds may also work. This is not the smaller Taurus fan. JTR's first 240z/csb engline swap manual used a top radiator mount from a 71 or so Nova with v/8. If you are using this piece to mount your chevrolet radiator, the Lincoln shroud mounts as if stock with three sell tapping screws. If you have the JTR manual,look at page 12-2. zgeezer
  3. This is the relay on early 240z with Automatic Transmission that is mounted on the firewall near the battery. It works with the inhibitor switch that is mounted on the passenger side of automatic transmissions. It prevents ("inhibits") startup in any gear other than park and neutral. These are no longer available from Nissan. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the interior of this relay. Something that one might be able to use to construct a functional equivalent using modern relays? Or, in the alternative, does anyone have one for sale or trade. z
  4. Sorry, it appears they were sold.

     

    What I do have is one set of 4 stud 300zt hubs w/o bearings, spacers and Toyota ventilated front disks. Along with a set of unused Brembo 5 lug 300zx rear discs... part of a rear disc  brake conversion.

     

    regard,

    z

  5. I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,
  6. Thanks everyone. I found a trading partner. z
  7. Thanks for the response. I ordered the mounts off the JTR website and one week later PayPal refunded the money. Thanks for the offer; but, I'm not much of a fabricator. z
  8. JTR used to carry an elegant radiator mount for installing a Chevrolet radiator in a 240Z. I need the kit or just the top bracket. If you have one send me a pm with your price. g
  9. I think I have a set....somewhere. I'll look Monday. Do you have a 280Z OEM radiator overflow bottle and cap? z
  10. I really "need" an OEM 280Z radiator overflow bottle. No interest in aftermarket or "it'll fit" swaps from other cars. I have two early "D" hubcaps [series I-- '70/'71] that are in reasonable shape, plastic "D" slightly faded, but pins are good and the chrome is good to about 3 feet. These hubcaps are NOT painted, are either chrome or stainless, and are not bent up. Straight across trade. You send me a usable bottle with cap (I don't need the mount) and pay for shipping. I'll pack these in two pizza boxes and send them to you. Photos available if you have the bottle. z
  11. Ok, I wish to replace the fusible link from the passenger side rail to the starter in an early 240z. I have the harness side intact. I do not have the link. The quick disconnect is a latchable plastic holder with one male blade on the body side and a matching female on the link to the starter. That blade is an unusual size. I believe it is something in the order of 10 or 10.mm. Does anyone know where I might find these connectors and latch "box"? I am not interested in purchasing a complete fusible link: only male/female/and plastic connector. With these connectors, I expect to wire a relay/breaker/fuse box without sacrificing the body loom. g G
  12. I had noticed that later 280z's have an oil pressure with two male blades configured in a T. Does anyone have drawing of the internals? If it is a simple ground contact, then that may be as simple as wiring the ground side of a relay directly into one of those terminals. It can't be that simple. I need something to kill the electric pump in event of an accident. G
  13. I've wired my 70z with an in-tank FI pump. I'm using the fuel pump wires Datsun built into the body harness. I'm looking for an easily mounted inertia safety switch. Ideally something small enough to be mounted on a front "frame" rail. Any recommendations or pictures of installations. g
  14. What year? '74's are quite different.
  15. I had a similar issue on my '70. Bare shell, missing engine compartment wiring, hacked body harness, and a "clean" instrument harness with plastic terminals that turned to powder at a touch. My combination switch and the spare were badly corroded from water intrusion into the heavy duty black plastic tote that I used for storage. [summer heat and water in a semi sealed container destroyed all white plastic terminal ends and corroded the aluminum]. I purchased a complete 24 or 28 circuit wiring package from Ron Francis wires.. I decided not to do a complete custom re-wire; instead, I purchased a '72 engine harness and stuffed it and the other two harnesses into a box and shipped them all to Dave Irwin in Washington state. What I received back was a completely refurbished harness that could be installed in a day. The expense was less than I paid for the Ron Francis wires. Here are the pros and cons as I saw them. 1. How many circuits did I need. As this would not be daily driver, not a race car, I needed more than a few circuits. As this Z would not be equipped with aftermarket hydraulics, heavy sound, power mirrors, GPS, flashing wheel well lights, 120 watt light bars or any of a host of other aftermarket power drain, I could do quite well with the 10 or so circuits of the stock Z. 2. Reliability I know there are Z owners here that consider the Z wiring scheme to be something designed by LUCAS or that the phrase "reliable Datsun Z wiring" to be an oxymoron. The weaknesses and idiosyncrasies of the Z wiring scheme are well known and largely curable, most by simple plug and play harnesses. I did not trust my wiring skill set to be adequate to guarantee my wife that we wouldn't lose lights some night somewhere between Caliente and Ely, Nevada. Remember, my use is as a driver that will see [i hope] a lot of highway miles. 3. Stock Interior I did not wish to alter the interior from stock. My desire to keep a stock appearance dictated that I would live with the Datsun combination switch. Mr. Irwin was able to add a plug and play sub-harness that incorporated a relay for the head lights. A major design defect of the Datsun wiring solved. I chose to retain the Ammeter. Perhaps not a wise decision, as Mr. Irwin could have easily modified the instrument panel harness to use a 280 voltmeter. But, again, I wanted a stock interior 4. Personal Growth I did not factor into my decision any element of acquiring new skills or taking on a new challenge. To be honest, if I were retired or 20 years younger, I would have gathered my friends, a few cases of beer, 20 pounds of carne asada and wired it like a Chevy over a weekend. Yeah, that combination switch would be dumped in favor of something from Flaming River or GM.
  16. I'm looking for four adapters to mount Honda 4x100 wheels to Datsun. Prefer Ross's MotorSport adaptors if available. Others would be considered. Zgeezer
  17. You're right, of course, in that the mc is still on the car and not in my vice. However, I'm looking for some direction as to why one side of the MC pumps and holds pressure, while the other does not. I suppose my real question is rather or not these "symptoms" would point to a mis-adjusted rod or a faulty bleeding procedure or a faulty/corroded m/c. I'm looking for direction. z
  18. I am bleeding my master cylinder while installed in the car. The power brake unit is from a 280zx 2+2 and is approximatly 10.5 inches in diameter. I've run a clear plastic tubing from each master cylinder bleed port to its corresponding fluid reservoir. I've filled each with DOT 5. After two strokes pushing air, the front reservoir has a complete cycle: fluid enters the tubing and on the second stroke completes the circuit and re-enters the reservoir. The back reservoir is different. On the first stroke fluid fills the tubing to almost the level of the loop back into the reservoir. However, upon releasing the pedal, the fluid immediately returns to the master cylinder, leaving nothing in the tube. On the next stroke, the fluid from the back reservoir will elevate in the tube; but, then immediately return to the master cylinder. The brake pedal has a distinct feel to it: It has a 1/4 inch of free travel before it engages the master cylinder. Once engaged there is a smooth transition (with a tad of resistance) throughout the stroke until the very end. At stroke's end there is a distinct "click" both felt and heard. The pedal returns to the up position easily and smoothly. This master cylinder was purchased new several years ago and was filled, briefly, with DOT3 before it was removed, drained, and stored on a shelf in my storage unit. I carefully measured the brake rod length on the bench with the vacuum unit out. I "think" that dimension is ok. In terms of troubleshooting, what should be my next step? I have another new 280zx ('83) that looks the same; but, the mounting ears are horizontal rather than vertical. Is the later unit a "bolt one"? Regards, z
  19. I'm looking for a company/individual that can refurbish 240-280Z combination switches. I prefer to work with a contributor to hybridz.org and I'd like to stick to someone here in the West. If you do the work or know of someone who does, please send me a PM at this site. z
  20. I need one, maybe two, combination switches refurbished. Can you help me locate someone that will do this service? I've read that a Dave Irwin in Washington state will refurbish 240-280Z combination switches. I understand that he has posted here relating to wiring the Honda Civic wiper motor and over at Classic Z under the name similar to Z'SONDABRAIN . I know of a website "Datsun 240Z Upgrade" located at 6421 105th St NE in Marysville, Wa 98270. However no-one responds to emails sent to their website "contact us" address or USPS first class mail to the above address. I would prefer to purchase from someone who supports this site. Any help would be appreciated. z
  21. Back in 2002 a member "Brad" posted CAD or other file type with the dimensions of an aluminum panel to replace the stock plastic inset that contains a courtesy light, heater controls, and center vent. His panel had a number of variations including all gauge, radio, and heater control cutouts. Are there any old timers here that downloaded and buried that file for future reference and would be willing to share it with me. Failing the file, does any one have contacts with "Brad", the original poster. I belief the file contained the following information... logos perhaps. "Omniglass" "Brad" "240z Com". Z
  22. The retaining bolt bore centers for the Ford Windstar straight thermostat cover are very slightly narrower than the late Camaro pump. The solution is to run a 5/16th inch drill down both Ford bores. This opens up the Windstar retaining bolt bores just enough to allow the use of a stock GM 10mm thermostat cover bolts. The Ford thermostat appears to fit nicely. The Ford Windstar thermostat cover is a $9:00 item. An aftermarket GM straight cover will run about $50.00. That would be billit item with o rings as a seal. The Ford item uses a simple flat gasket. g
  23. The pivot points support the windshield wipers. They are located at each end of your windshield wiper transmission. Often, they are frozen or have considerable drag. They are easy to disassemble, derust, and regrease. The pivot is a steel shaft supported by two steel bushings set into the pot-metal housing that is tapped for 3 small bolts. Most pivots have lost their pivot point cap, which was designed to keep the steel to steel contract between the bushings and the shaft dry. You can disassemble and re-grease the pivot points without removing them from the flat rods that make up the windshield wiper transmission. Here's how: 1. Remove the wipers from the pivot points. 2. Remove the entire transmission assembly from the car. 3. Inspect the pivot point. You should see the shaft starts with a threaded portion leading to a splined shoulder and then a collar that is seated on a steel bushing. These parts usually are well rusted. 4. The collar is, in fact, a wire "C" clip. A rounded wire, not a typical flat "c" clip. If your pivot point has heavy rust or a layer of build up, you might not recognize the wire clip as a clip. It is seated in a recess cut into the shaft. 5. Spread this clip with a very small pointed hook. I used the smallest flat screwdriver I could find. Once the wire clip is spread it is easy to work it out of the recess and up the shaft. These are very easy to lose and I've never seen them for sale. Remove the clip and place it in a magnetic bowl or cup. 6. Screw a nut over the threaded portion of the pivot shaft. I used the cap nut that secures the wiper blade assembly to the pivot. 7. With the threads protected by the nut or cap nut, gently tap with a lead or other "soft" hammer. 8. Bear in mind that the body of the pivot is made of "pot metal". It can be broken when you drive the shaft out. Don't use a BFH.. 9. I supported the flat side of the pivot point on a small open vise. 10 If the shaft does not move after receiving a few taps of the small soft hammer, then soak it over night in a container of light oil. I used a pint of A/T fluid, but I think any commercial penetrating oil will work. 11. After removal, clean both the shaft and two steel bushings. I held the shaft in a small vice and scrubbed it with a piece of 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper soaked in light oil. I cleaned the bushings by wrapping the same piece of 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper soaked in light oil around a .32 caliber brass bore brush. The bushings were cleaned in the same fashion as cleaning the bore of a .22 or .32 caliber firearm. 12. Once the shaft and the bushings are clean, smooth, and dry, I packed the pivot housing bore with a heavy bearing grease used to pack wheel bearings of boat trailers. This grease is designed to repel water. [Actually, I think all grease repels water to a lesser or greater degree.]. I think you could use any quality heavy grease. 13 Drop the greased shaft into the greased pivot housing, place the cleaned and greased wire "c" clip over the shaft and work it down the shaft until it seats in the recess cut into the shaft. I used a deep well socket, I believe a 10 or 12 mm socket, to push the wire "c" clip squarely down the shaft. 14. The last step is to push onto the pivot point shaft, a plastic/rubber cap that is designed to slow or prevent water intrusion . These are available for a couple of bucks off the internet. Google 240z wiper pivot seals. Sorry for the lack of photos. G
  24. I've received my water pump and compared it to a pump off a LS3 crate motor. They are the same as to the radiator connections as both have driver's side horizontal piping. The Camaro pump is spaced about .75 inch forward. The original truck pump mounted very close to the engine block and the pump "snout" that supported the pulley and mechanical fan was spaced forward. The Camaro pump uses the same pulley as the LS3 crate engine, but the entire pump stands away from the engine block. Truck water pump spacers used to mount passenger car pumps give the same effect. I'll mount photos if I can figure out how to reduce a very large file down to something less than one megabyte in size. LS1tech forums state that the straight thermostat cover from 1998-2000 Ford Windstar 3.8 v6 will bolt to a later Gen III water pump. Don't know if the GEN III thermostat would fit; but one would think the Ford 'stat might work. Z
  25. It appears from posts on LS1tech.com that the water pump from a 2010 Camaro with the 6.2 l engine uses the same offset from the block as do the LM7 and LQ4 iron block truck engines. Moreover, the water "pipe" is horizontal and located low on the driver's side. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/conversions-hybrids/267367d1291698554-lq4-into-3rd-gen-1972-nova-21.jpg and http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/modi_photos/WaterPump003x_zps6632715f.jpg . The advantage for me is the ability to convert to an LS1 alternator location and still use the truck 135 amp alternator and an straighter radiator hose route. While my local Chevrolet agency will sell this at retail for around $800 or my first born and first choice on my Redbone bitch's next litter, take out's are listed at McKindrick's Racing and Ebay. Apparently, it is only on the 6.2 L option of 2010 and up Camaros. LS 3 water pumps from other vehicles appear not to have the same offset and the water pipe is located on the passenger side of the pump pulley. I've order one for my swap and if it does not fit as advertised, I'll post the bad news here. G
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