RBZ BEATNIK Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hello Fellow Z Lovers, I'm ina bind I have a series 2 rb25 thinking it woulda been a better choice but mostly everybody has a series 1 and all diagrams are series 1 appertly im 4 years behind the trend since all the links for series 2 diagrams and wiring info have broken links I have the r33 service manual I followed the Hammers Steps But I have no spark or Inj pulse Im so clos to getiing it started. so my question is What is the proper test method for the cam sensor is it supposed to have a constant 12v and whats the proper waveform I have 12v at the inj and coils But It seems the Ecu is not gounding it any suggestions I Appreciate it all Thanks Fellows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hello Fellow Z Lovers, I'm ina bind I have a series 2 rb25 thinking it woulda been a better choice but mostly everybody has a series 1 and all diagrams are series 1 appertly im 4 years behind the trend since all the links for series 2 diagrams and wiring info have broken links I have the r33 service manual I followed the Hammers Steps But I have no spark or Inj pulse Im so clos to getiing it started. so my question is What is the proper test method for the cam sensor is it supposed to have a constant 12v and whats the proper waveform I have 12v at the inj and coils But It seems the Ecu is not gounding it any suggestions I Appreciate it all Thanks Fellows The S1 and S2 setups are not that different. The extra circuit that powers the ignitor just doesnt exist and I found that I did not need to wire up any power wire for the VVT solenoid and injectors like described by Chris Rummel's writeup. The wire colors are almost identical as well. I think there was one wire that was not the same colors as the S1 stuff, but I was able to trace it down to the ECU and verify the the Pin #. I would start by following the FSM procedures for diag. Make sure your power and grounds are excellent and that you have good relays. Ive had issues with the stock relays in the past and its usually because of poor wiring(connections). The other thing to check is the CAS drive. Ive seen a few people brake those drives off. DO NOT attempt to pull the coils and fire them. IF the coils are not grounded properly while they are discharged they can burn the coils up. To properly check spark I find it best to pull the coil and install a conventional spark plug wire and use an inductive pickup to see spark. If you have access to an O-scope you can connect you inductive clamp over the wire much easier this way and analyze the spark in detail. None of the Snap On adapters work on our coils that I have found. The Toyota ones were close, but not reliable enough to get a clean signal. This is why I use a spark plug wire now. If I were closer Id help you out. Hopefully someone close to you can help you out. Its always nice to have a second person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 (edited) Hello Fellow Z Lovers, I'm ina bind I have a series 2 rb25 thinking it woulda been a better choice but mostly everybody has a series 1 and all diagrams are series 1 appertly im 4 years behind the trend since all the links for series 2 diagrams and wiring info have broken links I have the r33 service manual I followed the Hammers Steps But I have no spark or Inj pulse Im so clos to getiing it started. so my question is What is the proper test method for the cam sensor is it supposed to have a constant 12v and whats the proper waveform I have 12v at the inj and coils But It seems the Ecu is not gounding it any suggestions I Appreciate it all Thanks Fellows Sorry, but that is one of the longest run on sentences I think I've ever read. Edited July 16, 2011 by jakeoster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ BEATNIK Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 I think there was one wire that was not the same colors as the S1 stuff, but I was able to trace it down to the ECU and verify the the Pin #. Do you know which wire it was? The Cas Gear is good i even spun it by hand no pulse. I measured the out put on 0 degree voltage does not change from 2.3 volts on 180 Degree it measures 9mV. I think the Cas may be at fault because FSM says its supposed to be between 2-3 v I swapped out relay to my fuel pump and they all work Does anybody have the proper pinout to get the s2 power and ground points? I appreciate u guys responding back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 it sounds like your ecu doesnt even know the car is running. do the relays click when you turn the key onto "on"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 When you turn your key to the on position does your Fuel pump cycle on for a few moments to prime the system and them off again? Do you hear the Fuel Pump relay and ECU power relay click when the key is switched on? There is a diagram of the power and grounds with pinouts on the ECU in the FSM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ BEATNIK Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 THE ECCS RELAY CLICKS IT HAS POWER AS DO THE INJ AND COILS IT'S EITHER A) THE ECU IS NOT GROUNDING THE COILS OR INJ OR THE CAS IS NOT SENDING SIGNAL. I FOLLOWED THE ECU PINOUT FROM AEM SINCE I FIGURE THEIRS WOULD BE MORE ACCURATE. I GOT 12V WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE AND THE MOST 3 OHMS OF RESISTANCE COULD IT BE TO MUCH RESISTANCE? I HAVE A STEADY 2.3V ON ONE SIGNAL WIRE FROM THE CAS BUT IT STAYS STEADY DOESN'T FLUCTUATE AND THE OTHER SIGNAL WIRES READ .9mV STEADY ON CRANK <---CAN'T BE GOOD IT SHOULD CHANGE AS SIGNAL IS READ WELL I ORDERED A NEW CAS SENSOR AND SENT MY WIRING TO GET DOUBLE CHECKED I'LL LET YOU GUYS KNOW THE OUTCOME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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