BlueStag Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I imagine this might be a bit of a new one on you, or I hope so, anyway. I own a Triumph Stag (blue) into which I have inserted a 260 w/ SUs, behind which is a Maxima 4sp auto and behind that is a 180 diffy twisting Datsun halfshafts spinning Triumph hubs (Triumph half shafts were garbage. So was much of the rest of the car). This is kind of a cool set up, as the 260 is producing almost exactly the power that the 3.0l V8 did, without falling to bits a week after getting re-built. Oh, btw, the car is up on stands and has been for nine years. I bought a house....... It took me 30 minutes to get the Z engine running again, and that included changing some dried out fuel lines and the battery, and adjusting a float. I think I like this engine. But. I know it is still a bit of a dog. This is nearly 3000 pounds with 130hp to move it. It does not cause the pulse to race. Apparently 280zx Turbo motors can be had at reasonable prices, with a little luck. And can readily be persuaded to spin the wheels at 200hp. Which would suit me just fine. I like the idea of the 3.0 V6, as it is very much a spiritual replacement for a 3.0 V8..... But a straight six is smoooooooth. Turbine smooooth. And I do like that! And I have an L6 INSTALLED, without issues (it ran tens of thousands of miles before going up on stands). So the path of less resistance would seem to me to be to find a solid ZX Turbo and drop it in, (the "dropping" being the attractive bit!) Question: How is the Maxima tranny going to respond to a SLIGHTLY massaged 280ZX Turbo twisting it? And who in Los Angeles, long term, would like to help me pull this bs off? Oh, and what sump am I running? It is all the way at the back. It drops right about at the line between cylinders 3 and 4. I need to keep that! Oh, and please do feel free to comment outside the narrow parameters of my questions. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) Interesting project you have there!! There are two 4 speed boxes that you could be talking about. They are both descended from the very good L3N71B transmission. One is hydraulically operated (L4N71B), the other electronically (E4N71B). The earlier hydro box is the one I have experience with and has proven itself to be very reliable in service. The usual rules apply, regular servicing and an adequate oil cooler up front. A one way valve will be needed for the vacuum line to the modulator valve so it see's only vacuum not boost. There are plenty of hot up bits too btw. Good luck with it mate. Edited August 7, 2011 by ozconnection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Interesting project you have there!! There are two 4 speed boxes that you could be talking about. They are both descended from the very good L3N71B transmission. One is hydraulically operated (L4N71B), the other electronically (E4N71B). The earlier hydro box is the one I have experience with and has proven itself to be very reliable in service. The usual rules apply, regular servicing and an adequate oil cooler up front. A one way valve will be needed for the vacuum line to the modulator valve so it see's only vacuum not boost. There are plenty of hot up bits too btw. Good luck with it mate. The OD drops in and out by way of a rocker switch mounted on the center console, so that makes it electric? I don't know if that makes sense. The "seatbelt" light in the middle of the gauge cluster had its mask changed such that it reads "overdrive". Very nice when driving twisty winding mountain roads, just flick the switch back and forth. So your judgement is that it will stand up to the torque without issue? And obviously none of the vacuum driven systems, like the brake booster, wants to see anything but vacuum..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Of course, I could be asking, assuming that one needs to start from scratch, and one wants a reasonably clean burning engine (fuel injection, basic emissions controls) which is the most budgetary way to get to about 200hp? It seems to me that a ZX Turbo gets up there with little cost or effort. Possibly just porting of a good head? A pinch more boost? A 280zx has a much longer way to go? A substantial upgrade in the head, hotter cam, pushing pinging? I have always had an aversion to turbos just out of complexity. That and the lag, but with an automatic at least the turbo will not spin down as the tranny shifts up.... Always love to chat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 The OD drops in and out by way of a rocker switch mounted on the center console, so that makes it electric? Um, no. The electronically controlled auto uses an ECU to control the shifts. Both trans have the rocker switch you mention, the OD cut out. Yes, I use it the same way you do without having to floor it to kickdown the trans. Cool feature that one. So your judgement is that it will stand up to the torque without issue? Yep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 So it is a classic hydraulic trans as used with carb'd cars since the dawn of time? Which only makes sense, as this car does not currently have a ECU. I'd be looking for an electronic shifting trans, IF I could find one with OD. I certainly am not giving up OD (especially with a 1:3.7 diff on the car). The auto ZX Turbos seem to have been fitted with a different 3sp trans. I also want a swap that minimizes any changes I need to make to what I built a decade ago. I assume it will run with a FI engine, as the Maxima it was matched to was FI..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Ah, here we go. A little basic research...... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco_4N71_transmission What I have is the light duty unit from a Maxima, which of course has a suitable bell housing. A slightly tougher unit was matched to a 300zx. I'm going to guess that I can use that trans with the bell housing that I have, and not be up against much of a swap. And I also expect the 300zx trans should not be too difficult to source. All of which could wait for the current trans to fail under the stress of a 280 turbo, assuming that it did. Autos don't tend to just blow up, yes? They start to act funky first. And pulling out the trans while leaving the engine is is doable on my chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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