BlueStag

Tony, Thanks. I'm in Burbank, but I am sure that I can find something that will serve. I mostly wanted to know what SORT of plastic/rubber to use. I'd like to show it to you some time. I have the kick-down solenoid working properly now. I readily outrun Triumph TR6s. What sucks is that I have to put the balley thing up on stands to do anything with it...

I just had my L6 with a Maxima 4sp autobox out due to a broken flex plate. Grrrr. I think I lots a seal on the speedometer take off. The cable connects to the gear head on the trans with a large bezzle. I can get the bezzle tight, but the cable is loose, and I am losing fluid. The Nissan dealer was useless, of course. Does anyone have a 70s or 80s Nissan trans sitting out of a car, and better yet, also have the cable for the speedo handy? Is there a gasket that looks like a garden hose gasket? Any idea what material it could be made of that would not just melt under the influence of the trans fluid? And if anyone has a Nissan part number, well, I'll be thrilled.

I can only say my very tame 260z with a pair of SUs spins up to 5k but is a bit hectic there. Real power only comes above 3k. Good luck.

Sorry, I NEVER can seems to post on the transmission page for some reason. You may know of my Triumph Stag with a L6 and a Maxima 4sp trans. The flex plate started breaking up about 3 months ago. I managed to pull it apart and put it back together. Gotta work out the shift linkage a bit, but not your problem! I think I lost a washer or gasket. The trans is dumping rather prodigiously fluid from the speedo gear head. I have cranked down on the bezzle that locks the trans cable in place, it is tight, but the cable itself is loose, and fluid is escaping. The Nissan dealer was less than useless, of course. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a gasket of some sort in there? I imagine something like a hose gasket. If anyone has some of this stuff kicking around that is not attached to a car, and can observe, and possibly give me dimensions. And what sort of material? I imagine that many rubber like products would dissolve fairly quickly in that environment. Thanks as always.

Well, you have a point. Actually, I have found the spec, 2 1/8th qt.

Guys, I am moving ahead on my project: replace broken flex plate. While I was at it, I replaced the main front seal. Oddly, the two small bolts holding the third pulley to the balancer were 1/4"-20s, and not metric. Go figure. When I pulled the trans off the engine, I wanted to pull the torque converter off the trans shaft, just to see if it had been obviously damaged, which it was not. I drained the torque converter into my oil slop bucket to be recycled. And now I cannot find a spec on how much to precharge the torque converter before I slide it back onto the trans input shaft. I seem to remember seeing 2 1/2 qts, but that seems rather a lot. Now, this trans is off a Nissan Maxima, but I imagine the torque converter is essentially the same as a Z torque converter. I cannot find the reference in my shop manual.... Anyone know what's up?

Oh, great. I'm so happy.

Hey Tony, Hope to see you again soon. Possibly the day you are dropping off a sound ZX Turbo motor for installation in my Stag. Just because you want to, you understand....

Just a note: the engine is out of the car.

From your lips to gawds ears. I was just out front chatting with my neighbor the machinist, and he told me as much. Does anyone have experience with this?

For those following my tales of woe, the flex plate between my L6 and Maxima 4sp autobox was indeed cracked. I managed on Sat to extract it from my Triumph Stag, 3 hours, no injuries to personnel, car or engine. I was hoping to have it back on the road by next Sat, but I am having trouble bamboozling anyone to come help by Wednesday to stuff it back in the car. I figure I need a minimum of two days to put it back together. So, now that I have it out: it is obvious that the front seal has been the culprit in spraying oil all over the place. I'll have to go find my Honzowitz, but I'll ask you: What the hell is entailed in changing the front seal? I assume that I am committed to pulling of the chain cover. Meaning pulling distributor and oil pump? Just how much of a pain is that? Strangely, I DO have an engine stand to put it up on, so I won't need to be squatting as I do this gig. Geeze, is it a mess.....

I think you guys know my car: a Triumph Stag with an L26 mated to a 4spd Maxima auto. It is arranged in the engine bay such that the block is almost touching the fire wall, unlike a Z. The engine bay on a Stag is much shorter than that of a Z, had to push it all the way back. So. My flex plate is breaking. Finally going to do some damned thing about it. Cannot separate the trans from the engine while in place. Gotta pull the whole mess. Any words of wisdom to check for as I put a new flex plate in? I'm going to have it magnafluxed before I install it. Anything else?

Borrini, Sorry to be so slow to respond. The noises have gone away. My mechanic thinks it is my starter. If it is, I'll be buying new. Thanks much.

Does NOBODY have a spare flex plate they are prepared to sell for cheap?

No, he thinks it is one of two things: The flexplate could be CRACKED. They have seen it before. Or they think the bendix drive on the starter could be going south. Which is possible. The car has for a long time had an occasional failure of the starter to engage the ring gear cleanly. A loud crashing sound as the starter gear jumps out at the ring gear but does not engage. Sounds like hell. All I need to do is wait for the starter to stop spinning then engage again. Never fails the second time. But it could be at the end of its cycle. Lord knows I favor it being the starter. What could be easier or cheaper to install?

Hey guys, The flexplate on my Triumph Stag which has a Datsun 2.6 L6 with a Maxima overdrive autobox MAY be about to croak. I have had some violent heavy banging or clanging on start up. My autoshop which is very good thinks it is a cracking flex plate or a bad starter. Let me have a spare flex plate and I'll give you a tour of my Triumph with a Datsun engine in it!

So I took the car to the shop for an oil change. I had been dreading bearing failure, and was expecting a thrust washer or a mess of shavings to come out with the old oil. The shop owner has a better theory: a cracked flex plate or a bad bendix drive. Which he thinks makes sense for a heavy thunk sound for a few seconds of running that then goes away. And does not happen each time the car starts. Thoughts? Who's got a spare flex plate in Los Angeles and would like to look over a Triumph Stag with an L6 in it?

Just got back from my speed shop (Tyerman's in Burbank, CA, for those three of you that are near by. They really are excellent.) I took it in for an oil change, dreading shavings or a thrust washer. No signs of bum bearings. Joel, the owner insisted that if I had a bad rod bearing, that it would not go quiet after a few seconds of running. He thinks the most likely culprit is either my bendix drive or my flex plate. He says he has seen flex plates crack and give just this sort of transient, death rattle noise. The pisser is that it may be impossible to pull the tranny without pulling the engine. It is very tight in there. But it beats the hell out of a new engine, if that is what it is.

It's an automatic. Yes, my carbs could be funky. Possibly the floats need adjustment. I was also thinking that I was running on the last of the gas, and there was water in it, and when I topped up, the water was not getting to the engine or was diluted.

No, me first. No noise this morning. I gave it a bit more choke than the previous two days. And watched the oil pressure very closely. It responded immediately. You could call it a clank if you like.

Wow. No takers? No symptoms this morning. The only difference is that I gassed up yesterday.

The engine: an 2.6L with twin SUs. It was rebuilt about 15 years ago, but the car was up on blocks for a decade. It has been running for the last three years, in my Triumph Stag. This is a warm climate, so I tend to not use a LOT of choke to start it: when I do, liquid gas shoots out the tail pipe and I have to back thru the cloud of it as I pull down the drive way. Yesterday and today, first time, when starting from stone cold, there is an alarming heavy metalic thunk coming from the engine. Very disconcerting. It goes away quickly enough. I have oil and oil pressure. I THINK that when I start it tomorrow, if I choke it a bit more, it might not do it. Or it will throw a rod. Which would be a bummer. I suppose I could pull the engine. I'd like that about as much as having my teeth pulled out with a pair of pliers. The front carb has a tendency to have its jet stick if the choke is pulled very far out, and then half the engine will be running quite rich compared to the back half when I attempt to release the choke. Which is the second reason that I try to start the car with the minimum choke that I can. Anyone got a Turbo engine they want to give me? I don't need a starter or an alternator, but if you have a spare exhaust system that a muffler man can cut up to fit my car, that would be a bonus.....

A chum who is nuts already has two Stags, both original, but he is smitten with my conversion. Actually, he had two other conversions previously, a Ford and a Chevy V8. He asked me about my L6, and I told him if I had it to do again, and who knows, I may, I'd go with a 3.0, possibly a turbo. He was mumbling about me doing the work for him, and there is no way I'd do that. But I would have no trouble advising a chopper how to get the work done.

Please excuse the flaming ignorance, but: Are there any rear sump arrangements for the 30VG?

I coulda had one. I turned it down, Bought a Fiat instead.