ComicArtist Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) Yeah so. As we all know, this is what a typical 280zx strut looks like. I'm going to be using s30 struts, but the picture is just for the idea. Obviously, the shiny damper part retracts into the strut tube. What I want to know, is, how much of the strut tube is filled with oil/gas/damper stuff, and how much is just free empty space? Like, how much room do I have at the bottom of the strut to cut off? This guy cut what looks like about six inches from the bottom: .....and I'm wanting to cut off a little less of the strut, so I have a longer portion of strut at the bottom. I just don't want to be cutting away and have the damn thing blow up and shoot oil/whatever all over me. Thanks! Edited August 16, 2011 by ComicArtist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stprasinz Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) remove the threaded nut off the top, and remove the strut cartridge the nut is the LARGE nut just below the "shiny" strut Edited August 16, 2011 by stprasinz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 So the whole cartridge will come out, just leaving the long hollow tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 yup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Sweet! Didn't know that. This coilover conversion will be easier than I thought then. Just a question..... I'm doing a coilover conversion by welding bottom coilover mounts to the stock strut tube. Are pillowball mount tophats necessary for a conversion of this type or can I use my stock tophats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 The stock hats will only work with springs of the oem diameter. Whether or not they need to be pillowball type hats depends on the strut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Whether or not they need to be pillowball type hats depends on the strut What do you mean by this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Did exactly what you are doing about 10 years ago and had a top spring seat custom machined to fit into the top stock strut mount and to ride on the stock steering bearing. The aluminum seat I had made is compatable with 2-1/2 inch springs. Switched that assembly out for EMI camber plate last year because I was pushing bad on the autox. If you get the DP camber plate, a 2-1/2 spring seat (is that what you mean by a top hat?) comes on the camber plate. So, you only have to source the threaded collar and bottom spring seat. The DP includes upper seat, bearing and replaces the top insulator-all in one piece. Check it out on betamotorsport.com. If they don't list the DP, check out the EMI camber plate they are pretty much the exact same part. You just bolt the top of your strut into the camber plate assembly and you are ready to go. I'd love to sell off my little spring seats cheap (they are really sweet), but you'd be better off to get the DP plates instead so you can have that camber. EMI and DP camber plates are basically the same design, but they are by different manufacturers and are different colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Are your struts just threaded rods like the oem or are do the have a swivel ball at the end? If they're like the oem, then you shouldn't need a special hat, it's just a seat for the spring with a hole that the rod goes through. Again, basically the same as oem, just a different diameter for the new springs. You shouldn't have to custom make the hats, there are tons of them out there, with or without the oem isolator, it's a pretty generic part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 These are the coils I'm going to be running. I'm pretty sure the fronts have pillowball uppers in their camber plates but I should just be able to remove the plates and run an oem style tophat right? I figure I'm just going to have to see them once they come in to figure it out. Should be interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Yes I'm sure it's a hat/camber plate combo installed on the threaded end of the strut. You can most likely strip it to the bare bones and make it work with regular hats and using the regular bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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