stprasinz

Dam! These are the bees knees too! And now I need an alternative for my next project ugh… thanks for the first set!

Good deals!!!

I may have a set, but would have to pull them, it’s cold and frozen ice/snow.... but. What are they worth?

I have a set. No rotor or cap. 🤷🏼‍♂️ But have a distributor, with shaft. I also have a z31 optical sensor which I think is an upgrade for it... it’s slightly different but if it’s possible I’m sure there is a write up (probably use nuts and bolts instead of how the oem Unit bolts from bottom up, as the z31 bolts from the top down...) $200 for it all shipped.

That’s assuming you are already running the turbo distributor for 82-83.... I have one, or could I should say... 87 turboecu harness afm. 275or with a nistune ecu, harness and afm 550 ps you would need a cas wheel from a vg30e(t) also to put into the stock dizzy if your not running the distributor, I have one for an 82-83 turbo, with an oil pump shaft for it, for another 200, and can include the cas wheel for a vg30...

Why not upgrade to a z31 turbo ecu? Pretty straight forward... easiest way, ecu, harness, and afm then it’s just a matter of some splicing of the wires. You get a majorly updated ecu then. Making you more power in stock form.

I do agree about closer to the original lines intersecting. But the front flares terminating early with the rear of the wheel open is beautiful. I could see it reaching to the rear of the front fender so the bottom portion could be removed, allowing for venting etc. the rears maybe just a better line around the doors ( it always appears at a twisted awkward angle to me.... Other than that, I think spot on!

17157

Little late, but the vt muffler, Is clickitty clack even when installled flat. Mine is even only on a 2.0 (sr20det). But other than that, awsome.... Mine I would describe as the sound of a lifter that collapsed, only in the rear, And is constant until its been driven for a while (10-15 minutes of normal driving)....

Sweet progress! I often wondered about t5 hybrids, that or the chevy t5..... Sweet!!! So, are you going to be going this route as opposed to the turbo vg, or are you going to turbo this!

Say running 2.5" pipe to the front of the car, approx. 10' of piping, thats only a few liters of air to move, compress. An enigne (5.7 liter for example) ingests 5.7 liters of air every rotation. at 3000 rpm it will ingest 5.7 liters 50 times a second! The heat lose from the exhaust piping will mean you dont need an intercooler so the intake piping is actually about equal in the amount of air being compressed from one system to another. in a properly setup remote mount setup, I've seen some pretty reponsive systems. They no longer have the heat issues associated with standard turbo setups, but run into other issues. Wheres the intake filter going, oil, feed, and return, weight of the oil scavange pump if not running oilless turbo, exhaust has to be AIR TIGHT, is there clearance under the car heat sheilding in the fuel tank area. if there is room underhood, I would recommend it.

If the cam was 180 out, it would still be synced with the 720 of the cam, it would just make the dizzy 180 out... But neither would explain the 3 cylinders doing nothing. compression test!

Most t3-t4 turbos will bolt on. I had a 60-1 bolted up to mine. Which has a pretty large compressor housing on it. Also as for the external gate. That would require you to weld a flange off the manifold. More than likely a length of pipe ect to allow it to clear everything. I had a length of shedule 10 1.5" pipe cut and welded at angles to extend approx. 6" from the manifold, and end with the gate just in front of or behind the engine cross member I forget now... As for the different ecu or injectors, well, that depends on the size of turbo, and how much boost you want to run. I would start with saying a smaller t3t4 turbo shouldn't need anything. The larger you go, the more "tweaking" you should do. I would recomend runing 3-4psi more than base pressure in your fuel pressure regulator, but then you lose some fuel economy. Another alternative is to lighten the spring in your maf, of to which this is a very delicate mod that you want to do slowly, don't just loosen it alot, only a tiny bit will have a big effect! but the same thing happens, a little worse fuel economy, and also that wouldn't raise the saftey threshold as the raising fuel pressure would. Both fixes would be bandaids, and shouldn't be performed without a wideband. But if they are do so slowly, do some runs, and read your plugs, don't just go run hard thinking your fine...

As for the tires, there has been 315's almost tucked under. I'd just go 275, or maybe 295 and roll the fenders to allow clearance. Should be enough rubber to snap an axel if you so wanted to.

I think a 10" rim will fit, but needs like a 6" backspacing... If it fits, a 6.5" offset may be better to allow a more aggressive (wider section) if it doesn't start to rub in the rear first. These ideas are going by I have 8" rims with a 4" backspacing... Goodluck!

trying to coherse my buddy into rippin the town up, my 87 300zx, his mid 90's 450hp boosted civic..... He rants about the bad gas from sitting, come on lol..... I try to persuade him telling him mines slow ect, runing low boost, major tuning issues...... still 26psi RIPS out of 103mm turbo!!! I probably have a little less timing than I should, So exhaust gets hot. Anyone got a big enough stick to nudge him to get him to tear down the town...... Also, needed a break from ripping the town, since I have no ac, the holes in the firewall allow LOTS of HOT air in while ripping, not soo much while cruising, but the headers seem to get warm quickly. I run 17 psi though a 3" "cat area" back, or open dump 4" and high boost.... (just explaining why I think the heat gets soo bad... That and ran out of water to drink, so I had to get watered down....

280zx turbo swastika rims 15" $225 Decent set of swastika rims. Could use refinish, But all it all in above average condition, clear coat is a little woar, but still useable. From my for sale ad.

If you go to an intersection, you would either chatter, or slide in a welded. Neither a good thing if you are trying to grip drive. And thats slow speed driving, add more speed undoubtably slideing, and slideing and grip are totally different animals. I agree with the stay open, save for lsd.

got one on the way, so no longer looking!

As the title states. I have a 77 280z, that I converted to small block chevy, and automatic. What I am looking for is the center console, and actual shifter. I don't really need the linkages ect to the trasmission, but if included I wouldn't complain. you can email me if you think you have what I want. you can email me. stprasinz@yahoo.com pictures would be appreciated.

I had a similar situation 2 days ago... I left my house, first time driving my car in a few weeks(or months actually). I realized I had forgotten my registration, and thought I needed it for inspection. At which time I pulled into the local auto-auction parking lot, and turned around, nothing vicous, simple turn around. Well I pull back onto the road, and my car got a little silly on me. Ok, shift to 2nd.... might as well give a little gas. It starts sliding, I start grinning, and more gas is applied! Therfore, more grin, more angle, pendilum effect, more grin!!!! Needless to say I live about 3 miles down the road, and once I got done being silly, I decided its time to be a serious driver. No cars on the road..... So you guessed it to the wood the pedal went. AAAHHHH lovely power.. Anyway, I pull into my driveway, and before I make it into my house low and behold a sherrif FLY's by at a decent clip. I smirk and chuckle, theres no way he'da caught me going that slow

You shouldn't be drawing vaccum there. A pvc valve should be able to keep pressureized gas out of the valve cover, so putting one directly into the intake, as to induce vaccumm would work. Otherwise, a vaccumm pump may be your alternative.

loose flapper, external spring to create tension on the flapper (where the actuator attaches to the turbo). boost leak.. I can run about 6 psi with my piping entirely disconected, and about a 1/2" gap.. How is amazing lol....

600hp is a huge number! I ran a vg with a t3.60-1 turbo running 19 psi, it as QUICK, but 600 hp far from, I think? I am currently building a vg, forged rotating, ported polished heads, jwt s2 cams, lots of arp, copper head gasket, adjustable cam gears, msd 6al ignition, ms1, lots more.. I expect to be over that, but also I will have a large bill... If you do that with ANY type of longevity (more than 5,000 miles) I will be surprised! Hell, if you do it period without blowing up (shattering ring landings if everything else holds up), I will be VERY impressed. I think the head gasket will blow, from the head bolts stretching, before you shatter landings, if your lucky. there is a point where the pressure in there gets too extreme, that no race grade fuel can eleviate. Get one hell of an ignition, spray methanol, and retard that ignition to about 7-9 degrees at full boost, and you may be able to use enough of that power, and not preignite.... and If I were you, HUGE TURBO, may not be ideal, but cooler boost anyway, keep us posted, We all love to hear things go bang! And if it don't none of us will believe it..... you can defy laws of physics! But the none of us will believe it was the truth, even if you do it, and prove it, none will believe... It will be looked at as a hoax but tid bit, wasn't there a test subject some big buck company did, and got over 1,000 hp before the motor blew? that was factory head gasket down.... I am not sure if it sustained 1000 hp for anytime at all, if they increased power to that point, or how it was conceived.... may have been a rumor or hoax, but I did read about it somewhere a long time ago... and so the legend is reborn

I'm going to have to get the 4" sandersons, and worse comes to worse flip them upside down.. they should clear the hood, unlike the standard block huggers. I would have to make a hole straight through the center of my huggers to work, I could do a dimple on my other headers, but it would be a deep dimple.... I don't think the 3/8 body spacers would help, I think it would make the huggers bolt on, but the shaft would be in the direct center of the outlet... I actually think the sandersons will allow it to work with little to no issues!