QWKDTSN Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Hey all. My swap is going smooth as silk. I'm almost done getting the engine bay ready (god you should have seen how much dirt and grime was on the wheelwells and frame rails!). I have all the cutting, drilling, and grinding done, have removed everything that's not necessary, have separated out my wires and wrapped the harness with spiral wrap. The only obstacle that's really still in my way is re-routing the fuel lines into the fender. Moving the brake line up onto the frame rail was no big deal really, but now I've got these gigantic, barely flexible fuel lines hanging out of my trans tunnel. How am I supposed to "route" them anyway? Just drill a big hole, bend them in a big loop, and feed them through? Or am I supposed to cut them short and do the rest with fuel tubing? And what's up with the charcoal canister? I'm yet to understand how one of these works. the JTR book doesn't exactly tell how to hook it up, and also doesn't tell or show how to get the fuel back out of the fender well again. Can I see some pics of what you guys have done, or at least get some helpful hints? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Not sure this is much help but... I replaced the stock lines completely with braided line. Ran it down the passenger side under the car, up into the fender behind the front wheel, and then through a bulkhead fitting. Pics on my WEB site but it was really not a big deal - aluminum line could be used over braided if you wanted. I used -8 line and have no return, the regulator is a deadhead unit. When I goto EFI I'll run -6 to the back with a bypass regulator... I pretty much just didn't trust using the stock 20+ year old line. I wasn't sure it would supply enough fuel and knew it wouldn't when I went EFI. Braided line and AN fittings aren't cheap but it looks good and is solid once done. Just be careful when the car goes on a lift that it's not pinned by the lift pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted September 20, 2001 Author Share Posted September 20, 2001 Hmm, that sounds like an attractive solution. The JTR book doesn't give really good information on the fuel delivery system anyway, I don't think, meaning that there's no pictures of the fuel pump/lines/carb etc. Maybe it's just that I've never done this before So I guess tomorrow I'll drain and pull my gas tank (maybe even slush it while I have it out), figure out what fuel pump I need, and go shop for some braided line.. You say you used -8, right? That's the same size as the hose running to your remote filter, if I'm not mistaken. I couldn't find any pictures of the fuel system on your page, but those are some big hoses Think it'd be okay to run the lines up in the tunnel, sort of where the old ones are? I haven't taken too close a look as to how they run forward from the tank so I'm not sure. I probably wouldn't run them 'under the car' unless they were tucked up out of the way pretty well, which is why I think the tunnel would be a bit better.. then again, it would be annoying to run them into the fender, which is what this is all about anyways. So what did you do with the fuel vent line? I think that's the one that's got me the most confused out of all three. I know there's the white tank above the main gas tank that collects the vapors, right? Then sends them forward into the engine bay for no discernable reason? I'm still in the dark as to what a charcoal canister is, and whether or not you guys use them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Nion, I am not using the charcoal cannister with my swap, but since you are, try looking in a Haynes or Chilton manual---all the connections are routed to the carb I believe. JTR does not say exactly how to mount it, but I know you could make an easy bracket to hold it inside the front wheelwell. The lines apparently go through a hole you drill...but be sure to put a rubber grommit (sp?) in the hole to finish it off. Good luck, man. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 I ran a 3/8" AL line up the tunnel in the stock location. Wished I'd gone steel, since the AL one got a small ding in it pulling the motor out. One thing that bothers me about running it in the tunnel is tranny clearance for a Tremec 5spd or T-56 is tight up high. The other thing is the ideas (that the NHRA rule is based on) that having a fuel line in the trans tunnel means it should be shielded from flywheel/flexplate/clutch/etc. explosions that could come through the bellhousing or auto tranny case. The NHRA says that any line in the tunnel needs to be run through a steel pipe of some wall thickness I forget. So maybe in the name of safety, you should run it along the frame rail, but be careful about it getting crushed with a lift or jack. I have a charcoal cannister on my car, but I can't really use it correctly, since the Holley carb I have (3310, old style) doesn't have the right ported vacuum source to pull fumes out of it. That's the "purge" line. One of the other lines to the cannister should be the vapor return line, I suppose. [ September 19, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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