Jump to content
HybridZ

Coil Per Plug Ignition Problems


zack_280

Recommended Posts

I am running MS2 on a V3.57 Board I bought from DIY Autotune. I also bought 6 IGN-1A 'race' coils that are wired up in a wasted spark configuration. These are smart coils. They work similar to LSx coils. They charge when given 5V from the ECU and discharge when dropped to 0V. Matt Cramer set up the Spark outputs as follows.

Spark A: DB37/Pin 36

Spark B: DB15/Pin 10

Spark C: DB15/Pin 11

 

I bought the JimStim board and everything appears to work as expected under simulation. However as soon as I power the board up when in the car I am getting 5V (actually like 4.6V) on Spark A and Spark C. The coils do not like this. When I disconnected all but Cylinder 1 to test for spark the coil started sizzling b/c it is trying to charge non-stop. Why are two of my spark outputs going high when powered up? I believe that they will operate correctly under cranking and running conditions since they appear to work fine on the simulater, but I don't think (and don't plan to try) I can get to that point without blowing the fuse powering the coils.

 

Here are my settings from Megasquirt.

 

 

Ignition Options

IgnitionOptions.jpg

 

 

More Ignition Options

MoreIgnitionOptions.jpg

Edited by zack_280
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I left out...While cranking I was checking for spark on the #1 coil and was reading 1140 RPM on my timing light tach. The ECU showed 190RPM. The timing light shoudl be reading 190x2=380. For some reason I am getting 190X6=1140.

 

In case you missed it in the post above, I think my problem is only going to exist at initial power up of the ecu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gave it a try and it worked for Spark A and Spark B, but no Spark C. With the ECU powered up I was getting ~.2V on Spark A and B and 1.5V on Spark C. I also tried it on my Stimulator and was not getting a Spark C output. Then tried it on the car with the same results. The good news is that A and B were giving me the correct RPM signal on the timing light.

 

 

On top of the spark issues I left the ACC switch on last night and my car battery died. On top of that I need a 9V battery for the stim board and the only 9V battery in my house seems to be dying.

 

:huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. I figured out the spark C issue. I took the ECU apart and tested the connection from the 15pin connector to the PAD strip and got an open circuit on pin 11. Then I looked a little closer and noticed that it the spark C output was wired to the wrong pad. It is actually wired to Pin 3. So now I just have to swap the wire in my 15 pin connector harness and plug everything back in and it should work...This saga will have to continue tomorrow...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cranked it for about 10 seconds and it fired right up! Unfortunately I had a radiator hose too close to the alternator fan and made a big mess. I didn't notice this for a while, but the temp started going up after it ran for about 10 minutes or so and then I let it get to 215 before shutting it off. Unfortunately by that time it might have been out of water for a while. Hopefully nothing got too hot. But at least it's running on the new ECU. It was idling fairly steadily at about 700RPMs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...