myzblubyu Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I'm ready to start building my 240z. I'm trying to figure out which frame mount adapters I need to get. The motor is a ZZ383 stroker and it has the large 8" harmonic balancer. I'm also running a crank trigger ( http://www.emi.cc/triggerkits/220-72808.html ) and i can't go to the smaller balancer. I don't have a distributor since I using a Electromotive TEC3 ( http://www.emi.cc/products/tec3.html ) with coil packs and a FIRST fuel injection system ( www.firstfuelinjection.com ). I'm using a '97 T56 6-speed and I'm planning to install a Dana 44 C-4 rear (to handle 450hp and 500ft lbs of torque). I'm not worried about rear end width since I'm putting my IMSA body kit on it. Can the JTR kit work with modification or do I need to make my own. This engine with 411 rear and a 700r4 put my 3400lb '84 Buick Regal in the high 11s in the quarter. So this should be fun in a 2400lb 240z... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leroylucky Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I used the JTR kit and a smaller balencer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ineedboost Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 IF you used the JTR kit, you could put a spacer between the set-back plates and the motor to raise it. However, this might cause issues with the transmission fitting in the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I'm ready to start building my 240z. I'm trying to figure out which frame mount adapters I need to get. The motor is a ZZ383 stroker and it has the large 8" harmonic balancer. I'm also running a crank trigger ( http://www.emi.cc/tr.../220-72808.html ) and i can't go to the smaller balancer. I don't have a distributor since I using a Electromotive TEC3 ( http://www.emi.cc/products/tec3.html ) with coil packs and a FIRST fuel injection system ( www.firstfuelinjection.com ). I'm using a '97 T56 6-speed and I'm planning to install a Dana 44 C-4 rear (to handle 450hp and 500ft lbs of torque). I'm not worried about rear end width since I'm putting my IMSA body kit on it. Can the JTR kit work with modification or do I need to make my own. This engine with 411 rear and a 700r4 put my 3400lb '84 Buick Regal in the high 11s in the quarter. So this should be fun in a 2400lb 240z... Thanks myzblubyu: I went the same route with a 383 stroker and TEC3. Used 6 1/4" fluidamper balancer and 7" trigger wheel. Used a '96-'99 Vortec Distributor as the camshaft sensor so as to enable sequential fuel injection. With the Vortec Distributor the cap and rotor can be thrown away and a top plate can be purchased. Need to obtain a mating connector for the distributor and supply +12volts to the distributor Hall Effect sensor. Also running a T56 6 speed. Swapped in a R200 Clutch Limited Slip Diff, beefy stub axles and CV joint half shafts. Still working on the subframe and rear trans mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzblubyu Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 (edited) myzblubyu: I went the same route with a 383 stroker and TEC3. Used 6 1/4" fluidamper balancer and 7" trigger wheel. Used a '96-'99 Vortec Distributor as the camshaft sensor so as to enable sequential fuel injection. With the Vortec Distributor the cap and rotor can be thrown away and a top plate can be purchased. Need to obtain a mating connector for the distributor and supply +12volts to the distributor Hall Effect sensor. Also running a T56 6 speed. Swapped in a R200 Clutch Limited Slip Diff, beefy stub axles and CV joint half shafts. Still working on the subframe and rear trans mount. [/quot What brand fluidamper did you use? I understood that some aftermarket dampers would not work with the trigger wheel. I'm not running a cam sensor since I'm running a multi port fuel injection system, so I'm good there. This set-up has been in my Buick Regal for 3-4 years and still running very well. I considered getting a beefed up R200, but with the cost of setting one up I can fab in a C4 rear and already have 12" disc brakes and I can use my 17x10 rims without doing adapters in the rear. I have a good friend that builds Outlaw drag cars and he will build my subframe along with my chambered dual exhaust. I'm hoping to get everything together for the transplant by the end of next month. All I need is a complete C4 rear, frame mounts and trans mount (going to base it off of the JTR mount). Do you have any pictures? Moved from Tucson back in 2004 and My family and I miss it... Thanks... Edited October 18, 2011 by myzblubyu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 The Fluidamper is built by Fluidamper. I know that the 8" damper and trigger wheel will cause interference. Therefore went with 6 1/4" damper and 7" trigger wheel. The TEC3 multi-port fuel injection without a cam sensor is a batch fired injection system. The TEC3 with a cam sensor is a SEQUENTIAL multi-port fuel injection system. Using the R200 and CV half-shaft conversion takes much less fabrication. What type of pictures do you want? The original drum brakes should be sufficient. It is the front brakes that will need upgrade because CG will shift forward under braking with more weight on the front versus the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzblubyu Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 The Fluidamper is built by Fluidamper. I know that the 8" damper and trigger wheel will cause interference. Therefore went with 6 1/4" damper and 7" trigger wheel. The TEC3 multi-port fuel injection without a cam sensor is a batch fired injection system. The TEC3 with a cam sensor is a SEQUENTIAL multi-port fuel injection system. Using the R200 and CV half-shaft conversion takes much less fabrication. What type of pictures do you want? The original drum brakes should be sufficient. It is the front brakes that will need upgrade because CG will shift forward under braking with more weight on the front versus the rear. I'm going to run the ArizonaZCar Wilwood front brake set-up. I looked and the only lsd R200 that I can find around Va is very exspensive combined with building the CV and getting stonger stubs. I can get a complete Dana 44 covette diff. (disc to disc) for less and with my wide body there will not be that much fabrication. I have the cam sensor in my car but it's not wired up. How much of a difference will it make to hook it up? What type of injection system are you using? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 There is not anything better than Arizona Z Car Wilwood front brakes. Understand the R200 is expensive. The Dana 44 rear setup should be fine. Not sure what type of cam sensor you have in a ZZ383 engine. The type of fuel injection system I use is the same as yours an Electromotive TEC3 system set up as sequential injection. Without the cam sensor hooked up it is wired as 4 cylinders injected at the same time in a batch mode. This means that fuel is being injected to 4 at a time, then the other 4 are injected. In this mode there is fuel injected when the some of the cylinders have the intake valve closed. In the sequential mode it is individual cylinders that are injected one at a time at the proper induction intake time to an open intake valve on each cylinder. I have researched many fuel injection systems for GM engines and the TEC3 is by far the most configurable and tunable be it normally aspirated or boosted. No hassle with MAF sensors. The blend of Throttle position and MAP sensor is absolutely fantastic for high performance engines. The basic timing structure is very solid for both ignition and fuel. Back when, GM was not as advanced as Electromotive concerning both timed ignition and fuel injection. Nice to have easily tunable ignition and fuel curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzblubyu Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 There is not anything better than Arizona Z Car Wilwood front brakes. Understand the R200 is expensive. The Dana 44 rear setup should be fine. Not sure what type of cam sensor you have in a ZZ383 engine. The type of fuel injection system I use is the same as yours an Electromotive TEC3 system set up as sequential injection. Without the cam sensor hooked up it is wired as 4 cylinders injected at the same time in a batch mode. This means that fuel is being injected to 4 at a time, then the other 4 are injected. In this mode there is fuel injected when the some of the cylinders have the intake valve closed. In the sequential mode it is individual cylinders that are injected one at a time at the proper induction intake time to an open intake valve on each cylinder. I have researched many fuel injection systems for GM engines and the TEC3 is by far the most configurable and tunable be it normally aspirated or boosted. No hassle with MAF sensors. The blend of Throttle position and MAP sensor is absolutely fantastic for high performance engines. The basic timing structure is very solid for both ignition and fuel. Back when, GM was not as advanced as Electromotive concerning both timed ignition and fuel injection. Nice to have easily tunable ignition and fuel curves. I love GM fuel injection systems. I owned several cars with the TPI system and LT1 f-bodies. My daily driver is a 1990 IROC-Z with a slightly built factory 5.7L. I'm on thirdgen.org with the same screen name as here. I bought the Buick already complete with everything hooked up. This weekend I need to take a picture of the cam sensor and send it to you. You might be able to give me some insight on it. I would like to hook it up as sequential injected, it should give me slightly more HP and better gas mileage. I will be driving this car weekly when it's finished,I'm not a trailer queen kind of guy. I rebuilt my current 240Z when I lived in Tucson back in 2003, after the build we couldn't get it thru emissions. Too high compression, 10.6 to 1, and to big of cam, don't no the specs but it is a factory stamped Nissan cam out of a Bre car (sounded like a cammed small block). I had to put the factory cam back in so it would pass. I now live in Virginia where there is no emissions just safety inspections so anything is possible. The cam, lash pads and rockers are still sitting in a box in my garage, one day I will use it.... When do you expect to get your Z on the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 There is a lot of work to be done on my 240Z. I need to remove the sub-frame rails as both sides of these are bent upwards. I have the Bad Dog frame rails that need to be installed. Also need to precision align the rear of the T56 trans in relation to the R200 differential. Then fab the rear trans mount to the Bad Dog frame rails. Need to convert the front brakes to much better ones. Fix the cracked Dash. Put a new fuse panel and several relays and wiring. Reinstall the Dash and new gauges. Fab roll cage. New seats. Just a lot of stuff to do. The engine is done and run-in with the TEC3 system. The T56 trans needs some weak spots fixed. Suspension has been modified all around. So, there is still a lot of work to be done. Finally the temperature is starting to go down into the moderate range. I am limited on income as I am retired and on Social Security. Wanted to road race but my wife says I am too old for that. I differ. It is really good to carry on these discussions with you. Thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzblubyu Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 There is a lot of work to be done on my 240Z. I need to remove the sub-frame rails as both sides of these are bent upwards. I have the Bad Dog frame rails that need to be installed. Also need to precision align the rear of the T56 trans in relation to the R200 differential. Then fab the rear trans mount to the Bad Dog frame rails. Need to convert the front brakes to much better ones. Fix the cracked Dash. Put a new fuse panel and several relays and wiring. Reinstall the Dash and new gauges. Fab roll cage. New seats. Just a lot of stuff to do. The engine is done and run-in with the TEC3 system. The T56 trans needs some weak spots fixed. Suspension has been modified all around. So, there is still a lot of work to be done. Finally the temperature is starting to go down into the moderate range. I am limited on income as I am retired and on Social Security. Wanted to road race but my wife says I am too old for that. I differ. It is really good to carry on these discussions with you. Thanks a bunch. I always loved the falls in AZ., the best time of the year to work on cars. I restored 3 Zs in Tucson, wished I still had them all... I always tell my wife, "that I'll never be too old for fast cars". Money is always the key to finishing a project, so I'm going to sell my IROC-Z to finish mine. Hopefully by next spring I'll be finished and on the road. I'm wanting to make molds of my body kit before I install it. I have to install the rear quarters of my IMSA kit before I can install a C4 diff. I'm going to put the motor and trans in next month and probably destroy the factory R180 within a week, I'll see how strong it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 The R180 will likely go south in a hurry. It will be interesting to see the car after the IMSA kit is installed. Did you buy the ZZ383 as a long or short block assembly? Which cylinder heads are on the ZZ383? Which intake manifold are you going to use for the TEC3 system? Please advise. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzblubyu Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) The R180 will likely go south in a hurry. It will be interesting to see the car after the IMSA kit is installed. Did you buy the ZZ383 as a long or short block assembly? Which cylinder heads are on the ZZ383? Which intake manifold are you going to use for the TEC3 system? Please advise. Thanks. The IMSA kit is the one in my gallery. I'm either going to keep the FIRST TPI system (is on it currently) or use my polished HSR (Holley stealth ram). I bought it to put on my IROC, but after installing it my factory hood would not shut without taking off the insulation, so I went back to my factory TPI. The HSR gives it a more muscle look and I can switch injectors very easy. The heads are GM aluminum fully ported, 2.02 valves and 1.6 roller rockers. I'm running a LT4 hot cam with 526 lift, very street able. The 383 was built using a ZZ4 long block using all forged internals. I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow... Later... Edited October 22, 2011 by myzblubyu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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