ComicArtist Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Well, just dropped a stock L28 back in my '78. However, running into some timing problems. The distributor on the motor I got had some aftermarket sensor inside the dizzy for picking up the signal to send to the ignition module, and was running some crap aftermarket module, so I just swapped out the sensor and wheel under the rotor with an old locked distributor of mine. Just wired it back to the stock ignition module. However, now when I start it, the idle is fine, but under load until about 2k rpms, it bogs and misses slightly. Like it has no pick up at all, it will barely move. However, once about 2k rpms is reached, it picks up and runs and pulls fine. I'm guessing my problem is in the advance curve, but I don't know how to set it. Do you use just a regular timing light with the timing marks on the pulley? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 So you're running a fixed advance? The weights are removed and the mechanism locked? You don't have an advance curve, you have an advance line, no adjustment is going to make it into a curve without replacing the internal mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 No, sorry for the confusion. I took the ignition module sensor thing out of my locked distributor and put it in the stock distributor. Just trying to figure out how to time the advance. I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) The FSM says to set it at 10 degrees at an 800rpm idle. Loosen the 2 bolts on the base of the distributor and turn while watching the timing light until you're at 10 degrees advanced. Edited October 20, 2011 by letitsnow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Will it automatically set the advance curve for the whole powerband? Also, when I replaced the six-pronged wheel and ign. module pickup sensor underneath the rotor, I noticed the sensor was timeable as well. If you loosen one of the screws holding it on, it's adjustable. Could that have something to do with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Look down at the end of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102744-crane-xr3000-stable-vs-hei/ I did some work phasing my optical ignition and it helped. I had phased it to TDC instead of the actual timing part. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Will it automatically set the advance curve for the whole powerband? Also, when I replaced the six-pronged wheel and ign. module pickup sensor underneath the rotor, I noticed the sensor was timeable as well. If you loosen one of the screws holding it on, it's adjustable. Could that have something to do with it? A distributor has a set advance curve, no matter where you time it at idle. You can't change the advance curve without physically modifying its innards. Therefore, the answer to your question is yes, the advance curve is already set for the entire powerband from the factory. You must set the correct static timing. Take a peek inside the FSM and it will have everything you need to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Got it pretty much fixed guys. Thanks for the info! Borrowed a timing light and played with it some. Turns out it was at 5 degrees idle, so I took it to 10, still a little sputtery, and now it's around 12ish and feels much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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