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Leon

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Leon last won the day on April 4

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About Leon

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    Tremendous grasp of the obvious.
  • Birthday 02/21/1987

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    San Bruno, CA

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  1. FWIW, I have Hawk Blues on a street-driven E36, I'd call the cold friction perfectly acceptable and nowhere near unsafe. Dust and squeal is another story. I've run DTC-30's on my S2000 for 4 years and have liked them. Not much warm-up required at all (they're fine when driven cold on the street) and have good modulation. I would probably get ~10 days out of them if I had to guess. I was in a pinch last year with worn out front pads before a track day and tossed some PFC 08's in there. The PFC's have felt terrific so far, great fade resistance and modulation, but the squeal is pretty gnarly. It's still street driven so noise is not an inconsequential side-effect.
  2. That points to some of the repeat issues I have with the majority of custom suspension parts out on the market. They're almost never designed with structure in mind so they end up over-mass and/or less stiff and less strong.
  3. If we're talking rear arms, I think these are what's being referenced: https://silverproject.eu/rear-control-arm-adjustable-arms-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ In which case, there are some design issues with them. Mainly, they'll cause binding in the strut (see the many threads on this site on custom rear arms). I'm also not stoked on the shear plate design they have between the outer bushings and the tubes, a bit concerned about buckling which would be exacerbated by bending loads from the ARB and stiction in the bushes. Plus, they cut a hole in the primary lateral load path...
  4. My concerns on durability were more from a lack of isolation from low amplitude, high frequency vibrations (i.e. fatigue loads) coming from the engine. As long as the metal that joins everything together is strong enough, you're fine. It'll be buzzy for sure!
  5. Hey Nathan, I'm not seeing the pictures but from what you're describing, the size of the bushings you're using for engine mounts sounds really small. I'd expect them to give you very little isolation and more or less act like solid mounts. You may also run into durability issues, depending on how hard and how often you drive the car.
  6. Yup, saw it there. It's hard to pin-point a value but I'd guess you're looking a lot closer to the $7k than $15k. Your Offerup ad is no longer live for reference but if you get $10k, I'd say you did well.
  7. Awesome project, looking forward to seeing more! Curious how you'll be handling the BMS and motor controls.
  8. Agreed. Stock suspension with good dampers and at least 3" of bump travel will do the trick.
  9. No worries, shout if you have any questions and let us know what you decide.
  10. You've decimated the main lateral load path which transfers tire forces into the body via the lower control arms. The chassis has lost a lot of lateral stiffness. I agree with Cary regarding putting high bending loads into your rack bar and killing steering feel. At best, your lateral dynamics and steering take a hit. At worst, you'll have premature rack failure and fatigue failure somewhere in the crossmember. A shear plate welded to the bottom will certainly help. The engine also looks very close to the crossmember. Are you solid-mounting the engine? In that case, it may very well become a stressed-member in cornering as well...
  11. If the mustache bar bushings are made solid then some of the concerns are alleviated. I don't disagree regarding compliant toe, factory rear suspension probably also goes toe-out in cornering, but that's something I would aim to fix if I were redesigning the suspension. I do disagree about the diff mounting. From a quick google, you can see that the aft bushings are pressed into the Mustang's subframe. The inner metal of the bushing directly connects to the diff and allows the diff to move within the confines of that bushing. That's the proper use of a diff bushing. What I'm seeing on the Apex setup is that the bushings are sandwiched between the diff and the subframe. Unless the bushings are actually metal spacers (don't see a reason why that would be though), this is a huge no-no for that fastened joint. I smell either a fatigue failure coming on for the diff mount bolts or the bolts backing out completely. As was mentioned previously, as it sits, that bushing would only have a chance at isolating longitudinal forces. In short, that's absolutely not the correct application of a diff bushing, if that is the case.
  12. Here are some issues I have with this: - the LCA's are mounted to a frame which is hard mounted on one side and soft mounted on the other side (!) - this will cause a toe-out scenario under cornering which can make the car snappy and unpredictable - they coupled diff torque reaction to the LCA pickup - the diff is potentially mounted on isolators at the snout but hard-mounted at the case (hard to tell based on all the photos floating around) - what's the mass save (or add)? - other stuff, see screenshot
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