Neveragain55 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 So I searched the internet hi & low and made many phone calls looking for the right bracket that would mount an internal wastegate actuator for my T3, but could'nt find the right bracket with the right angle for a new actuator. In the end I decided to just cut the actuator can off of the original bracket and use it instead of beating my head against an unmoving object. Once I get the new can in, I’ll make the measurements for the mounting bolts, drill the holes, and mount everything. I’ve attached pictures of the old actuator before and after the mod, including the new actuator I plan on purchasing for others going through this. Hopefully it will give some of you some ideas............ Ciao……. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Remember that you need to make that diaphram rod as tight as possible before attaching the end to the actuator arm. Otherwise the actuator will open before its set boost level. You should have to use a lot of force, to attach the rod to the actuator arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neveragain55 Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Thanks, and will definitely do............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I just used the obx t3 bracket and cheapest ebay wastegate. So far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neveragain55 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) Did the actuator bracket have the correct angle or did you have to position the actuator arm directly over the oil inlet of the center section? I guess you could do that, but I wanted to keep all of the original angles of the original set-up the same. I already had a Dremel, so all I had to do was attach one of those "cutting disc's" to it and cut through the tack welds to get the old actuator housing off, and then I smoothed everything down with a cylindrical sanding disc. Took me all of 30 minutes to do and cost me nothing. Good luck with your set-up………… Edited January 26, 2012 by Neveragain55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.