alsil Posted January 23, 2001 Share Posted January 23, 2001 Anybody have the swap book for the EFI conversion? I am swapping in a 1995 302 and T-5 (complete with computer and harness!) and I have never done the EFI swap, so I wanted to look over the book so I know how to wire it up. Anybody have any idea where I can get the book? Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 24, 2001 Share Posted January 24, 2001 Al, Theres a book called "5.0 Mustang guide to Fuel Injection" that a few sites have refered to, might be worth a look, I don't have the author or publisher, sorry. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 24, 2001 Author Share Posted January 24, 2001 Thanks, I'll look for it. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 25, 2001 Share Posted January 25, 2001 Hey guys... I think Painless Wiring JUST came out with a harness for the 5.0! I spotted it in one my latest Mustang mags - might be worth looking into. Apparently the 5.0 Ford harness runs th emotor only and not a ton of other things so it's not so bad to swap. Food for thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted January 25, 2001 Share Posted January 25, 2001 if you pull the harness out carefully you wiil find engine harness is separate from body harness.get the factory ford wiring book (called evtm) for your motor and it will be easy.painless has harness for conversion but they are not cheap.if you are doing a early z get a gas tank from a 75 or 76 cause it has more hose fittings and outlet is 1/2". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 25, 2001 Author Share Posted January 25, 2001 Unfortunately, I'm not the one pulling the engine from the car, but I have ordered the book. Thasnks for the tip on the gas tank, I was wondering how I was going to push through a 3/8" hose while pulling through a 5/16"!!!! Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 Hi Al, The book mentioned won't be of much help since it covers the 89-93 EFI in more detail. The 94 and 95 EFI uses a different wiring harness and I don't think a lot of what you'll find will help. I'd suggest using the factory service manual and electrical wiring manual. I bought mine online from Helm inc. For the earlier EFI, which is much better in my opinion, you can use the Ford motorsport swapping manual. This is part number ISM-12071-C302. It costs $5 and you can order it through Ford motorsport or your local dealer (assuming they are smart enough to get parts from motorsport). This manual details using the Ford motorsport swapping harness, which is a lot cheaper than a painless wiring kit. Hope this helps, Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 If nothing stay away from the 94 and up computers - they stink. Same with the computer from the 93 Cobra - timing curve and fuel curve is pretty bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 30, 2001 Author Share Posted January 30, 2001 Well, pretty much I'm going to use the '95 computer because it comes with the engine, and I ordered that book. I'm notreally worried about the engine being too powerful - at stock HP it should give me low 14's with my gearing. Maybe lower ET's, but I'll find out when I have it together. Pretty fast, already, and I'm not really looking to make a drag racer this time. I want a nice, comfortable, FAST car. I think this will qualify. Thanks for the help! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 30, 2001 Share Posted January 30, 2001 Low 14s?! LOL! Dude, that drivetrain should've done low 14's in the car you're pulling it from if geared and setup correctly. Put it in a Z that weighs a thousand pounds less and I think you'll be very pleasantly surprised I'll bet you end up with mid 13s at least if you can hook it up and have decent gearing. Should be a blast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted January 30, 2001 Share Posted January 30, 2001 My 260 with a bone stock 5.0 / T-5 runs 13.40 at 102.66. The engine probably has 150,000 miles, and runs flawlessly. The car is not set up as a drag racer and still gets 1.86 sec 60 ' times. Good Luck, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted January 30, 2001 Share Posted January 30, 2001 Originally posted by 74_5.0L_Z:My 260 with a bone stock 5.0 / T-5 runs 13.40 at 102.66. Hey Dan, With those numbers your engine is putting out @245 Hp...that's Rear Wheel Hp not Flywheel Hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 30, 2001 Author Share Posted January 30, 2001 I was being conservative with my number, but I ran it through a program, and with stock Horsepower (215@rear wheels), 3:54:1 rear gear, and 3.35:1 1st, I should run 13.1-13.2 @ ~100 mph. That's just what the program said at 2500 lbs, which is about where my car will be at. I just know that the Z R200 will have a comparable parasitic loss to the 8.8 rear, because of extra parts, shorter shafts, but MUCH less wieght (stock mustang is in the 3750 range!!) so I should be playing with Vettes and Camaros with no personal losses. Should be fun. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2001 Share Posted January 30, 2001 Very respectable times. I hope my Ford swap goes as well. Does anyone have any first hand experience with the Ford Motorsport cams? Specifically the B303? At 224 lift at .050 it sounds like a pretty decent lumpy little street cam on paper. Any real world experience with it out there? Thanks, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 31, 2001 Share Posted January 31, 2001 I've not had the B303 in my car personally but I HAVE seen it in others. It has a slight lump to it IMO but not real bad. Wasn't easy getting it to pass emissions here and in fact migh tnot have been passable at all - a little fuzzy on that. I believe that a lot of blower guys liked them How much of the off the shelf 5.0 stuff can you guys use? My friend's shop often has stuff going in and out both used and new. If there's something in particualr you're looking for I can keep an eye out for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 1, 2001 Share Posted February 1, 2001 The B303 cam is a nice street cam with a 5 speed. it has a good lump To it but not tooooo much! The E303 cam is a little easier to live with though, it has more lift but not as much duration as the B303. My brother installed a "B" cam in his 89 GT and on the advisement of a reputable mustang shop, he set it up 4 degrees advanced. It WAY!!!!! too much bottom end for the street on radial tires. I could get by him with a mostly stock LX 5.0(3.73's, Hurst shifter, Flowmasters, etc...)when we raced, he would spin so bad and I would just slip the clutch enough to stay in front on the launch. The moral, Install it straight up! Like BLKMGK said, IF ANYONE NEEDS 5.0 PARTS let him or I know, I have them falling out of my ears. Also ALSIL, check out a company called WINDSOR-FOX, 5.0 conversions is all they do! I will try to find a number or web adress for you. [This message has been edited by JAMIE T (edited January 31, 2001).] [This message has been edited by JAMIE T (edited January 31, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 1, 2001 Share Posted February 1, 2001 Thanks for the info on the 'b' cam. Yeah I'd be putting it in straight up, no need to bolster low end. Thats what made me think of using the 'B' since the car is so light and the duration is just inside the border of what I'd use in a street car (225 @.050) and still keep a little vacuum. Thanks again, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 FYI, Hotrod had an article about the 4degrees advanced, straight up, 4degrees retarded issue testing a Crane valvetrain in a slightly modified but healthy SBC (Yea, I know its a Chevy) but their answers are still valid from their tests. First of all, Hotrod stated-and Crane is one of them, that most Aftermarket Cam Mfg's grind their Profile w/the intake CenterLine 2degrees advanced...so installing the Cam Straight Up ("0" degrees) will net you 2degrees forward to begin with. The cam tested was .480/.490 Lift, Advertised Duration 284/292 while Duration @ .050 was 222/230 w/a 110degree LDA. The test showed that: 4 Degrees Advanced: 1)Peak Torque max'd only 250rpm's earlier than usual at 4000rpm's. 2)Peak HP was reached exactly the same RPM as installing said cam 4degrees retarded yet yielded 6hp less 3)Peak HP reached 250rpm's sooner than installing cam straight up yet yielded 5hp less. Hotrod said in their conclusions that the gains in High RPM from installing the cam 4degrees retarded out weighed the minor loss in bottom end & midrange as the peak power only begins falling after reaching the 5000rpm range; to them this is a minimal loss. I'ld think the differences were minimal as long as you were in a 3600-3800lbs car. Put those results in a lighter car-You'ld probably want to install an aftermarket cam straight up & if it was a race only car-install it retarded & get the gains in the long run. I guess to know, or even have an idea, of how your cam will respond; you'ld have to know exactly when the intake opens & exhaust closes-this means degreeing your cam. As interesting as their results were; they also gave their "DISCLAIMER" in final thought: Does this mean all cams will act this way(?). The only true test is the 1/4 mile track. Kevin, [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 19, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted February 19, 2001 Author Share Posted February 19, 2001 Well, after spending all this time on the car, putting all the strongest stuff I could find in it all the way down to grade 8 bolts for all suspension, brakes, and steering, you think I'm crazy enough to run it at the strip? HELL YEA!!! I will do it one time, over here at Sears Point, just to see what it can do. If I go more than once, my Z will become a race car (the same thing happened with my Mustang, for 3 years) and I don't want that. I'll build another to race if that's the case. By the way, thanks for the tip, depending on how fast the stock motor is, I may go for a "B303" cam. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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