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74_5.0L_Z

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74_5.0L_Z last won the day on March 30

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About 74_5.0L_Z

  • Birthday 04/30/1966

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    Rockledge, FL

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  1. The hood won't lift if you give the air an escape route from under the hood. All the air that goes through my radiator exits through the duct in my hood. The air inlet is sealed to the front of the radiator and the outlet is seal the back of the radiator.
  2. There are several ways to gain some clearance. First, you can install adjustable bushing in the rear control arms and adjust them for maximum negative camber. This moves the strut outboard and gives you more clearance. The problem is that this may give you more negative camber than you want. If you have rear camber plates then you could move the top of the strut outboard as well to tweak the rear camber and gain more axle clearance. Second, you can lower the differential. The axles are shortest when they are in a straight line from the differential to the wheel. If the differential is low enough, then the stub axle at the wheel will always be above the shaft coming out of the differential. This works for low vehicles with limited strut travel, and is what I have done. I use bushings above the mustache bar to lower the rear, and adjust the angle at the R/T mount at the front of the differential. Third, in theory you could shift the differential forward or aft to gain clearance (same concept as lowering the differential). The axles would always be angled as seen from above, but the CV joints can handle that.
  3. It looks like you could get better angles on the steering shaft sections by rotating the pinion down toward the firewall and come in below the ear on your timing chain cover. Also, is the engine as far back and toward the passenger side as possible?
  4. I used an EZ 14 circuit harness mounted on the top of the driveshaft tunnel near the firewall. Mine is strictly a race car (no radio, no Heat/AC, no windshield wipers, etc...). I use a modified ford engine wiring harness between the ECM and engine while the EZ harness supplies all of the other body functions (ignition switch, brake lights, tail lights, gauge illumination, etc..) as well as power to the ECM and fuel pump. I like the compact fuse panel and the 175 amp circuit breaker that come with the kit. It definitely made it easy to clean up the wiring.
  5. Where are you getting contact? Tire to fender lip or tire to strut? With 17" wheels and coil-overs, you should be able to run more than -20mm offset. That equates to 4.46" backspace I run 8" springs, but my rear spring rate is 400 lb/in (probably not street friendly). With 15" wheels, I could run 5.5 inch backspace. With 17"wheels, you could get away with 5.75" backspace. Its always better to have more backspace than you can use because you can compensate with spacers. If you don't have enough backspace then there is no way to adjust besides getting different wheels. I use 5.25 backspace on all four corners, but only use spacers (1/4") on the front.
  6. What are you using the car for (street, drag strip, track days,...)? What size tire are you trying to fit? If you choose the right wheel diameter and backspace, contact of the strut tube is not the limiting factor. On the rear, if you have coil-overs, you can run at least 5" of back space with a 15" diameter wheel. I run 15 x 10 wheels with 5.25" back space. With Hoosier 275/35-15 tires I have about 1/2" clearance at the strut tube. As you increase the wheel diameter to 17 or 18", you can increase the backspace of the wheel. The inner wheel tub is the limiting factor for modern (17", 18") diameter wheels.
  7. Do you have the vacuum hose connected to the booster on the brakes? If so, disconnect it and plug it. You may have a big vacuum leak internal to the booster.
  8. When I designed my new cross-member, I added notches to positively locate it laterally relative to the frame. The bolts don't take any shear load.
  9. With the mount arranged horizontally like that, you are putting a bending moment into the side of the block. The lower bolts at the block are in tension, and the upper edge of the mounting plate is trying to push into the block. Typically, the mount is angled normal to the face of the block to assure that the mounts don't apply bending loads.
  10. I haven't had issues with it, but I do want to add a locking mechanism to support lateral loads trying to separate the rack tube from the rack pinion housing. Right now the engine is out of the car, so it might be a good time to revisit. An even better solution would be a nice Woodward rack. Do you have one I can borrow😀?
  11. You could try making your own cross-member like I did. The other thing that you can do is move the whole cross-member forward so that the engine drops in behind. This will also add caster and require custom T/C rods. crossmember.pdf
  12. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?&page=4#comments
  13. It is offset toward the passenger side (I think the offset is about 3/4"). Duplicate that as much as possible to minimize driveshaft angle as seen from above.
  14. My posts in the thread above show the fitment.
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