74_5.0L_Z

Is that a 6 groove or 8 groove serpentine? I wish I could find a forward rotation pump the works with the SN95 Timing Chain cover. That would simplify the belt routing. I would love to lose the upper pulley/tensioner on my set-up. I'm always happy to simplify and lose weight. I'll reach out to the FlowKooler folks and see if they can provide a forward rotation pump for the SN95 timing chain cover.

Do you have a forward rotation water pump? Most are reverse rotation with serpentine belt. If you try to run a reverse rotation pump forward, you won't be circulating water through the engine. Also, I would start fresh with the wiring. Don't try to reuse the original fuse block or any of the under dash wiring.

I don't have experience with the EPS. I am interested. I do autocross with wide tire 275/35-15 on 15x10 wheels on all four corners. While moving, the effort to turn the steering wheel isn't terrible. I try not to turn the wheel while the car isn't moving because I feel that I might over stress the steering rack. The 280Z has a slower rack than the 240Z. For autocross, I would swap to am240Z rack. I measured the difference between the racks in a thread several years ago. Going from memory, the 280Z rack moves 1.59 inches per revolution of the steering wheel, and the 240Z rack moves 1.81 inches per revolution of the steering wheel. The faster rack would benefit more from the power steering, but is usable without as long as the vehicle is moving.

Congratulations. These old cars are a lot of work, but worth the effort.

When I installed my cam, I had the engine on a stand with heads off, and used a dial indicator to find top dead center as accurately as I could. Once I found TDC on the #1 cylinder, I made marks between the rear flange of the crankshaft and the back of the block. Later, when I went to install the harmonic damper, I verified that #1 was at TDC, and that the timing marks were properly aligned with the timing indicator. They aligned perfectly. I'm using a Romac Balancer on a Ford 5.0L Stroker. The factory balancers have a rubber ring between the hub and the outer ring where the timing marks are located. The rubber fails and then the outer ring slips relative to the center hub. After that the timing marks are arbitrarily located and no longer consistent. Long story short: Find and verify TDC, and make sure the balancer marks can't slip.

You're probably going to wish that you had put some beads on your intercooler pipes. You will likely have the rubber/silicone couplings blowing off under boost.

I'm looking for a set of good undamaged wheels to mount a second set of tires for my car. I'm hoping for some 15x10 through 15x11 with at least 5 inch back space. My current wheels have the 4x114.3 PCD. I would also entertain 16 or 17 inch wheels. I would also entertain wheels that can be made to fit using spacers/adapters. Let me know what you have and how much you want. Thanks.

Add me to the list of people that want more HybridZ apparel....

Can the moderators please move this to the Brakes, Wheels, Suspension forums...

I currently have 15x10 Spinwerkes Series 82 wheels on the car 4x114.3 with 5.25" back space. I am looking for another set of wheels new or used. I would like to stick with 15x10 to 15x11. I am currently looking at Work Meister 15x10 with 0 offset (5.5 backspace). Has any had any experience with these wheels? What is the inner diameter of the shell? I am currently using 11.75" diameter rotors with Wilwood Calipers. I'd like to have at least the same clearance for brakes with maybe some room to grow. Any suggestions for 15x10 wheels that have good brake clearance? Anyone have a good used set for sale?

If they have the standard paper intake gaskets, throw them on the garbage and get the FelPro S3 gaskets.

What intake gaskets do you intend to use? I like the FelPro 1262S3 or 1250S3 depending on the intake part size. The S3 version of the gaskets are much more durable than the standard Felpro gaskets. I also apply a really thin smear of Right Stuff RTV around the water jackets when I install the gaskets and lower intake.

Don't forget to use sealant on the short head bolts / studs. They go into the water jackets of the stock block.

Without the oil cooler, my water temps were never an issue. Never over 200 on track. When I put the Aviaid Mangusta pan on the car it had a provision for an oil temperature sender. Even though my water temps never got too hot on track, once I installed an oil temp gauge, I discovered that my oil temps were getting near 300F. I added the Setrab 34 row cooler, and my oil temps stay below 250F.

On my car, I am using the SN95 timing chain cover, water pump, and pulleys. By doing so. I have a couple of extra inches of space at the front of the engine.