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74_5.0L_Z last won the day on June 4

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About 74_5.0L_Z

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 04/30/1966

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    Rockledge, FL

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  1. I used an EZ 14 circuit harness mounted on the top of the driveshaft tunnel near the firewall. Mine is strictly a race car (no radio, no Heat/AC, no windshield wipers, etc...). I use a modified ford engine wiring harness between the ECM and engine while the EZ harness supplies all of the other body functions (ignition switch, brake lights, tail lights, gauge illumination, etc..) as well as power to the ECM and fuel pump. I like the compact fuse panel and the 175 amp circuit breaker that come with the kit. It definitely made it easy to clean up the wiring.
  2. Where are you getting contact? Tire to fender lip or tire to strut? With 17" wheels and coil-overs, you should be able to run more than -20mm offset. That equates to 4.46" backspace I run 8" springs, but my rear spring rate is 400 lb/in (probably not street friendly). With 15" wheels, I could run 5.5 inch backspace. With 17"wheels, you could get away with 5.75" backspace. Its always better to have more backspace than you can use because you can compensate with spacers. If you don't have enough backspace then there is no way to adjust besides getting different wheels. I use 5.25 backspace on all four corners, but only use spacers (1/4") on the front.
  3. What are you using the car for (street, drag strip, track days,...)? What size tire are you trying to fit? If you choose the right wheel diameter and backspace, contact of the strut tube is not the limiting factor. On the rear, if you have coil-overs, you can run at least 5" of back space with a 15" diameter wheel. I run 15 x 10 wheels with 5.25" back space. With Hoosier 275/35-15 tires I have about 1/2" clearance at the strut tube. As you increase the wheel diameter to 17 or 18", you can increase the backspace of the wheel. The inner wheel tub is the limiting factor for modern (17", 18") diameter wheels.
  4. Do you have the vacuum hose connected to the booster on the brakes? If so, disconnect it and plug it. You may have a big vacuum leak internal to the booster.
  5. When I designed my new cross-member, I added notches to positively locate it laterally relative to the frame. The bolts don't take any shear load.
  6. With the mount arranged horizontally like that, you are putting a bending moment into the side of the block. The lower bolts at the block are in tension, and the upper edge of the mounting plate is trying to push into the block. Typically, the mount is angled normal to the face of the block to assure that the mounts don't apply bending loads.
  7. I haven't had issues with it, but I do want to add a locking mechanism to support lateral loads trying to separate the rack tube from the rack pinion housing. Right now the engine is out of the car, so it might be a good time to revisit. An even better solution would be a nice Woodward rack. Do you have one I can borrow😀?
  8. You could try making your own cross-member like I did. The other thing that you can do is move the whole cross-member forward so that the engine drops in behind. This will also add caster and require custom T/C rods. crossmember.pdf
  9. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?&page=4#comments
  10. It is offset toward the passenger side (I think the offset is about 3/4"). Duplicate that as much as possible to minimize driveshaft angle as seen from above.
  11. My posts in the thread above show the fitment.
  12. The dimensions for the bar above were for an S30. The original installation was in a 1974 260Z.
  13. I think you would be better off creating an SLA front suspension rather than the double ball joint set-up. Alternatively, have you considered putting narrower front wheels / tire on the car and using longer lower control arms to push them out to the width of your fenders. You would of course have to relocate the top of the strut outboard by a distance similar to the added length of the lower control arms. The factory LCA is ~11.3 long center to center. You currently have 15x14 wheels with essentially a 4" backspace. I would go to a 15 x 11 with a 5.5 inch backspace and make some LCAs about 16 inches center to center. Which ever avenue you pursue, I am watching eagerly and would be willing to provide any help I am able.
  14. I used the gorilla lugs for several years (black 7075 aluminum) and had no problem. I used P/N 44037B because I have replaced all of my wheel studs with M12 x 1.5 ARP. If you have stock wheel studs then you need M12 x 1.25 threads. However, when I started doing track days I bought a good set of steel lugs.
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