74_5.0L_Z

Add me to the list of people that want more HybridZ apparel....

Can the moderators please move this to the Brakes, Wheels, Suspension forums...

I currently have 15x10 Spinwerkes Series 82 wheels on the car 4x114.3 with 5.25" back space. I am looking for another set of wheels new or used. I would like to stick with 15x10 to 15x11. I am currently looking at Work Meister 15x10 with 0 offset (5.5 backspace). Has any had any experience with these wheels? What is the inner diameter of the shell? I am currently using 11.75" diameter rotors with Wilwood Calipers. I'd like to have at least the same clearance for brakes with maybe some room to grow. Any suggestions for 15x10 wheels that have good brake clearance? Anyone have a good used set for sale?

If they have the standard paper intake gaskets, throw them on the garbage and get the FelPro S3 gaskets.

What intake gaskets do you intend to use? I like the FelPro 1262S3 or 1250S3 depending on the intake part size. The S3 version of the gaskets are much more durable than the standard Felpro gaskets. I also apply a really thin smear of Right Stuff RTV around the water jackets when I install the gaskets and lower intake.

Don't forget to use sealant on the short head bolts / studs. They go into the water jackets of the stock block.

Without the oil cooler, my water temps were never an issue. Never over 200 on track. When I put the Aviaid Mangusta pan on the car it had a provision for an oil temperature sender. Even though my water temps never got too hot on track, once I installed an oil temp gauge, I discovered that my oil temps were getting near 300F. I added the Setrab 34 row cooler, and my oil temps stay below 250F.

On my car, I am using the SN95 timing chain cover, water pump, and pulleys. By doing so. I have a couple of extra inches of space at the front of the engine.

What oil pan are you using? You'll have to set the motor back really far to get a front sump pan behind the front crossmember. I'm using an Aviaid Mangusta pan on mine and I needed a custom crossmember to get the front sump to clear.

That type of fuel cell is only good for drag racing and mild street driving. I had something similar in my car when I first built it. When I started auto crossing the car, I found that the fuel had to be kept almost full to prevent starvation during braking and cornering.

The access panel is to get to the fuel filler neck. I think I got the panel from Allstar Performance. I wish the panel was just a little bigger so that I could remove the filler plate though the opening. The one I have is just a little too small...

I have the ATL 12 gallon cell in mine. I also use the ATL Black Box sump with pump. The fuel return dumps into the top of the Black Box. I can use pretty much every drop of fuel in the cell without fear of starvation. My cell is below the rear deck and offset to the right for weight distribution reasons. You can just see the bottom of the cell in this picture:

You don't really need the brake line differential pressure warning switch. It does function as a decent junction block. You are also likely to want an adjustable proportioning valve instead of the stock unit unless you plan to run stock brakes.

Those struts look really long. How much can they be shortened and still maintain sufficient travel?