Guest firebern Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 After all this work the hood doesn`t fit. It hits the air intake side of the engine and I can`t drop it further. Lee has a nice hood that he bougth complete. Anybody have other ideas. I think I`d need like more than 1/2 inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 do you have a spacer between your frame rail and crossmember to lower crossmember and thus allow you to lower your motor? It has an influence on your suspension geometry but nothing major that can't be corrected fairly easily. I'll be placing ~3/4" spacers their on my setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 8, 2001 Share Posted April 8, 2001 How far above the crossmember is the oil pan? the front sump should be BARELY over the crossmember. You were telling me that it's about an inch farther forward than mine, is the rear part of the sump even with the bottom of the crossmember? if it's above it, you have the engine too high. I have an edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock carb, and a K&N air cleaner, and it fits with about 1/2" to spare. If you are using any type of high-rise intake, it will not fit. Carb spacers will make it VERY close also. Can't use more than a thin one. Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 8, 2001 Share Posted April 8, 2001 A add on scoop. You can get a pretty long and wide early camaro (1969?)Cowl-induction type scoop that faces rearware with maybe a 2-3" rise (pictured here, sorry poor picture): You could also probably use the vette L88 type hood scoop pictured here: Just some ideas FWIW. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 Now I am getting rid of the engine lift(I borrowed it and now Martin needs it for a 57 Chevy). Anyways, I got about 1/2 inch between the crossmember and the bolt on the sump. This wouldn't make the difference. I tried lowering the engine as far as stucking the sump to the crossmember and the hood wouldn't fit anyways, though I won 3/8 inch. For 1/2 inch, I didn't want to modify my very sturdy engine mounts again. I spent too much time on these and I figured I'd get a new hood anyways. 1) Lone, where did you find that hood picture with the l-88 corvette cowl, that is exactly what I was looking for. I only found the fiberglass cowl but couldn't find the complete hood for the Datsun. Do you know where to find it? 2) Ross, that's a good idea, with spacers we could easily win a inch. Especially for my setup cause I'm using the Datsun's original engine mounting points which are on the crossmember. So an inch below, is an inch above. I'll look at that tonigth. I'd really like to keep my original hood. Those Datsun vent grilles are simly awesome. 3)Al, I brougth it back an inch farther since last time. I wasn't happy that the shifter didn't fit in the standard hole of my Z. But I still have 1/2 inch above the crossmember. I have the standard mustang H.O. intake and don't forget I have the EFI. You are rigth I could try to find an intake that is lower but at what cost? The trick flow intake looks smaller, I don't know about the edelbrock but there is definitely something to do here. I'll try dropping the crossmember tonigth, see what I can get since this ones the cheapest way. I want to save some for my next project, I found a guy who is selling a 74 Cuda with a 340 for 3500$US! Needs some work, he told me for 2000$US it's in top shape(provided you do the work on your own). I am seriously thinking of buying this car, but I got to finish my Datsun quick and cheap. What do you guys think about a Cuda?Is it easy to find a good condition Cuda for this price in the states(Texas especially)? Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 The website is: http://www.up22.com , they don't make those L88 hoods specifically for the Datsun, however they do have a stock replacement fiberglass hood and say on they're site they can put they're scoops on they're hoods. Not sure on the cost of that, the hood is like $200.00 for stock profile and the scoop probably about 50.00 didnt look that up but its on they're site. Good luck with it, hope the spacers work for you. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 Actually, mine fit with my stock '95 intake with about 1" to clear. But the '95 intake is shorter than the earlier one, because the stock '94 - '95 hoodline is lower. Maybe this would be an option if you don't want to redo your mounts. then you may not need to use a hoodscoop. May cost less, also. The airflow difference isn't that much. In a light car it won't be too much of a deal. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 Thats a good point Alsil made about the 94-95 intakes. If you have to buy one anyway, may as well pick-up a Cobra intake. It should be the same height as the stocker and pick-up some HP as well. You would need the throttle body for the 94+ intake and I'm sure some odds and ins, but it would be a good swap. The Vortech intake I was planning on using is @1"(maybe more) taller than a stock 87-93 intake. It sounds like it might not fit. ------------------ "Forzata Induzione" Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 Yea, I have an Edelbrock Performer intake, 1406 carb, and the shortest K&N Filter they make, and I still barely have enough room. The EFI intake is actually shorter ('95)!!! I had to cut down the air cleaner stud because it was hitting the hood!!!! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 10, 2001 Share Posted April 10, 2001 Ok, issues with dropping your crossmember: 1. tie rod angle will not be correct at 1", you will have more angle from the rack to the hub and you will experience bumpsteer more the lower you drop the crossmember. 2. You will not raise your car by dropping the crossmember. This is only the pivot point at which the control arms rotate. You will get more camber. Look at the JTR manual to change the pivot point. They have a good procedure for it. Not that I'm saying it's a bad idea, I thought about it myself, but my tie rod sits straight out from the rack on my car at rest, and seeing that (which is ideal) I will not change that. If you can recover some of the tie rod angularity, it should work. One good idea would be to "massage" the center of the crossmember to lower the engine 1/2". If you have a minimum of 1/4" clearence, you should be OK. I have a little more than that. I have not massaged my crossmember in that way yet, although I have in every other way. I would try the '95 intake. In fact, measure the intake from where it bolts to the lower intake to the top, and I'll measure mine, and I'll tell you what it is. Then you can see what you can gain. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted April 11, 2001 Share Posted April 11, 2001 Maybe I should clarify a bit, reason I'm adding ~1" xmember/frame spacers on my ZX- V8 setup is I have a rear steer rack and other ZX issues that limit my hood clearance for a big air filter etc.....I'll be adding strut spacers and camber/caster plates etc along with my ~1" xmember spacers and new altered engine mounts/in the end all geometry should be improved. As alsil said it's not just a matter of adding the xmember spacers. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 11, 2001 Share Posted April 11, 2001 From where the upper intake bolts to the lower, to the highest point on the intake, is 4.5". What is yours? AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted April 11, 2001 Share Posted April 11, 2001 I could try to find a 94-95 intake. How much could I win there? An 1/2 inch or one full inch(I need this)? I'll try to find one, I wouldn't mine getting one of these cobra intakes, they're very nice. I looked at the possibility of lowering the crossmember by an inch yesterday nigth. It is feasible. What can be done to get the ground clearance back to original, would be to get a set of springs to drop the front an inch and keep the standard heigth at the back. It is very simple actually. That will drop the fan too. Anybody had a problem with the stock fan? I think mine is to big and will hit the hood but I am not certain. This is easy to replace though. If you lower the front swaybar and crossmember by an inch and raise the side bars an inch on the suspension arms, you should get a very good fit. I am planning to cut my springs by an inch. I saw this in a Mopar magazine I have at home. I'll order new ones once I know this works. Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted April 11, 2001 Share Posted April 11, 2001 Upeer intake: I'll have to measure this tonigth. Spacers: You do have a point. For the tie rod angle, I thougth getting the original angle back by putting an inch plate on the suspension arms and the rods bolting point. I got to try it. Camber is one point, I will have to get the wheels realigned, If I want less. I'll try it for spin around the corner, if I find that the car is not handling the road rigth, I'll put it back to its original state. I will call for the upper intake prices. Later,Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 11, 2001 Share Posted April 11, 2001 All the spacers between the control arm and the bottom of the strut do is lengthen the sturt assy. it does NOT change the angle of the tie rod, since it is below the spindle. Camber is NOT adjustable on a Z unless you use camber bushings on your control arms, which give you about 1-1.5degrees of adjustment, or camber plates on the top of the strut assy, or slot out the holes on the top of the strut tower. Slottin ghte holes will only give you an extra .5degrees. Camber plates are the only way to get a substantial amount of camber adjustment. There are guys on this site who have adjustable control arms, they may work for you. Just some options. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted April 12, 2001 Share Posted April 12, 2001 I measured from where the upper and lower intake meet(you can see a line where they join) to the highest point and I got 5.5". So If you did measure the same I should win an inch. Yesterday I was thinking about this and maybe I could find one upper intake for 300-400$US? How much did yours cost? Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 12, 2001 Share Posted April 12, 2001 Got mine complete with an engine. Should be able to go to a place like www.stangparts.com and order one from a wrecked car. That's where I got my steering rack, just look up the part you want. Might want to get upper and lower together, not sure whether you can just bolt the newer upper intake to the older lower one. You never know. They may not have changed the lower at all. But seems like you can win some room that way. Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 12, 2001 Share Posted April 12, 2001 Just an FYI - when doing the 351W swap in a FOX Mustang there's a little trick that can be used to gain enough hood clearance to fit under a stock hood and may help you here with the EFI intakes... Pull the upper and lower intakes and have the mating surfaces between them milled at a machine shop. This could gain you as much as a half inch or more! Look at the pad on the upper - thick no? Now look at the lower with those nice deep holes - little too tall to fit? When doing the 351W swap on my Mustang I tried a set of "drop" mounts that dropped the damned oil pan right onto the rack. Switched to regular mounts and the EFI was pretty high. Switched to a milled lower and I was fine - upper remained stock (cowl hood). Food for thought.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 quote: Originally posted by alsil: All the spacers between the control arm and the bottom of the strut do is lengthen the sturt assy. it does NOT change the angle of the tie rod, since it is below the spindle. Al, at least on the 240-280Z, this is not correct. The typical strut spacer (incorrectly termed a "bumpsteer spacer" by many, IMO) goes between the bottom of the strut and the steering knuckle that holds the ball joint and outer tie rod end. So adding the spacer does affect both the angle of the control arm (and therefore the roll center and camber curve) and the tie rod end (and therefore the rest position in the bumpsteer curve). ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Crap! You're right, good catch! I forgot the spacer goes ABOVE the steering knucke, not below. Soory, hadn't looked at a pic lately. DOH! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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