Guest firebern Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 I think we should put some good additives to make our setups last longer and drive smoother. There are so many of those on the market I don't know which to choose and I am always worried of selecting the wrong one. Lately a friend of mine said Duralube made his auto tranny a lot smoother. He followded my advice and used Slick 50 for the engine and said it started better. We all saw the Duralube ads on TV but I don't think we are talking about the same research effort as Slick 50. I am not even sure about Restore. Who's product is race proven and has the best result? Any advice? Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 Well, None. Race proven? Don't think so. Do yourself a favor and run good quality synthetics and add NOTHING. Slick 50 has been proven to do more harm than good, and any of the other PTFE (Teflon) based products are similar. For PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) to provide lubrication it must be in a long chain form. Much like graphite is. Basically it works like microscopic rollers that roll together to provide lubrication. The big problem is that these rollers are 10-15 microns long. BTW, most oil filters filter to 5 microns. So basically 95% of the PTFE will be filtered out on the first pass anyway. Furthurmore they use other chemicals in the product to make it 'stick' to engine parts. Not good. PTFE repels oil like water on a ducks back. PTFE will never enhance lubrication, it will replace oil as the lubrication. The biggest problem with that is heat dissipation for things like valve springs. Valve springs are designed to have a constant coating of oil to dissipate the heat from them. PTFE will drastically diminish the amount of heat transfer that takes place between the steel and the oil. Furthurmore PTFE doesn't have a high enough shear strength to be used in this way. Its ok in light load applications where temperatures are not over 250F, but an IC engine is not light load, nor 250F. At higher temperature like and engine sees PTFE will not be able to bond to any parts. (try putting a teflon frying pan in a hot fire and see what happens to the teflon) Dupont invented PTFE and I've used it a lot in industrial applications. It is an AWESOME material for the right applications. But expecting it to perform in conditions so far beyond what it was designed for it silly. (no offense intended, that was more directed at the slick 50 people) Dupont has gone on record saying that PTFE is totally inappropriate for internal combustion engines. They ought to know a thing or two about it. Not trying to shoot you down, just providing the facts. I did a bit of research on this topic a few years ago as you might have guessed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 I used slick 50 on the Mustang engine. When it went in for Turbo install they tore it down to put in rings. Well well, the crank was grooved! I was pretty shocked and mentioned the Slick 50 to th eshop guy, who was a certified Aircraft mechanic and worked mostly on Porsche. His response was why would you put an oil shedder on an oil lubricated part liek a crank?". Umm, duh? They also were curious about the "rat turds" blocking several cooling poassages. Umm, Bar's Stop Leak? Bad, bad, bad. Never again will I attempt to fix a mechanical issue like that with a witch's brew of chemicals. I'll simply bypass the heater core instead I now run Mobil 1 everywhere except the radiator - it gets Water Wetter. Mobil 1 is one of the few synthetics that's actually still 100% synthetic. Not long ago the way synthetic oils were rated was supposedly changed - Castrol and others now have some dino juice in them but NOT Mobil 1 and NOT Red Line ($$). Amsoil is probably okay too but their claims creep me out ala slick 50 I'll break it in with regular oil and switch to synthetic ASAP. Oh, and still change the oil often - it's cheap insurance. Hrm, never tried Royal Purple etc. but 'm betting I'd not see that big a difference so long as it's being changed every 3K or so anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 Both Gents make a good point and I agree. Even if you run just Dino oil, changing it often is the key to a happy long lived motor (well one of the keys, stuff like not missing shifts and rev'ing the piss out of it help too... ). I may change to synthetic myself (Mobil 1 I think) as my motor is just about time for its first change and it seems to not be burning any measurable amount. If you have a high mileage motor that burns oil, then IMHO its a waste of money and time putting in synthetic oil, it'd be like putting on a condom after the sex was over ( all worn out and no protection.. ) If you really want oil to live a long time, use a Fuel injected engine, it'll last longer because of less dilution of the oil because of better fuel management and less gas getting by the rings. Another way to make it last is LPG conversion, maybe not super practical in a Z, although if you cut the spare tire area out a tank may fit. LPG conversions usually live a LONG life for basically the same reason, little dilution of the oil. As a side benefit you can run a buttload of compression (well you actually have to because of the lower heat energy of Propane.). Oh well, as usual I wrote a book, but thats my .10 of the oil questions. Respectfully, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted August 9, 2001 Share Posted August 9, 2001 Don't have a Ford but I was just reading about oils and additives and found an entertaining site. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html Why is 10W-40 considered bad? Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 9, 2001 Share Posted August 9, 2001 From the site you linked: quote: Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. quote The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Thats why 10W-40 is bad, M'Kay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted August 11, 2001 Share Posted August 11, 2001 Hey guys, I am still here, got busy with the quest to a better car and forgot about my subject. I was close to putting some Slick 50 in mine. Thank god, I read your comments before. Unfortunately, I tougth I had radiator problems and took some of that Bar leak stuff!!! That's it, the mistake I didn't want to make. So I am convince about those additives, I am not going to use them. Mobil 1 is good for the engine(I was using Castrol GTX), so what's good for the rear differential, I got to fill that old guy with some new oil. I read something about oil with chevron and a mechanic told me that cops used some special anti-slip oil sold by GM. THe GM parts guy denied it. What would be the most durable stuff for it. By the way, anybody has a high volume fuel pump? I bougth a 255 l/h(60 gal/h) fuel pump from Holley performance and the thing hums pretty loud. Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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