280z4me2 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Ive been on here for a few years mainly asking questions. This is my first project and figured I would start a thread. I have been at it for almost 5 years and really hope to get it done within 2 years. Not unlikely considereing I have every part including labeled nuts and bolts.... I also didnt want to hit 5 years but we all know how that can go. I originally purchased it to do the bare minimum to put it on the road. It has since tunred into a V8 swap, suspesion, and paint. This is my 1976 Datsun 280z as it sat when I bought it. Then the trouble kicked in... After stripping some of the rattle can primer the previous body man had applied, I began to notice areas that were sprayed directly over pitted rust. This alone was enough to force me to strip it to bare metal. As I was doing this I began to notice the bondo that was piled on 1/2" in some places ,like the entire roof,that actually didnt even need it!!!!! Almost as if they started putting bondo and kept applying when they couldnt get it to feel straight. And under that, you guessed it!, pitted rust! I hand stripped everything I could and then decided I would bring it to a blaster. I pre paid, he did a terrible job,argument led to a refund and a drive home in the rain(with a 80% bare metal car.... I decided not to trust these local blaster and I bought a HF blaster and went to town! Then epoxy primed most of the shell. Then I focused on the engine bay. It had minor rust through areas but lots of brackets holes, and seams. I decided to spot weld all seems and fill them smooth. I cut off all of the old brackets and welded the holes shut. The blaster isnt perfect and I got all of the rust off that I posibly could. I decided on POR15 and there Tie-Coat primer. Also did the same thing with the inner fenders. Removed door skins, spot blasted and applied Zero Rust to the inner door skin and door. The rear roll pan on these cars have big indentions for the bigger bumpers on the 280z model. I opted to shave thoughs and go with duel exhaust cutouts for the 302 Ford swap. Mine was all mangled up beyond repair so I had a machine shop roll me a new one out of sheetmetal. After several thin layers of fller and blocking , i got it straight enough (so I think) for high build. So yesterday I applied 3 heavy coats of Mar-Hyde 2k and began blocking. The plans are to block it out atleast twice. Then I will begin putting panels and door back on to block the entire car together 1 more time. Also made some quick brackets to help support the roll pan. Edited March 6, 2012 by 280z4me2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttodhunter Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Subscribed. Nice work so far! I got a HF blaster for xmas and am waiting to get started on a practice fender. I've also debated doing a 5.0 swap, so I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. Will you be using Technoversion's kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280z4me2 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 I found several drawings for cradle mounts so I will just make my own. Dont remember where I printed them from though.... A tip with the HF blaster, Buy a strainer to get out small rocks. Even the smallest ones will clog it up. Buy a pack of ceramic tips from HF. If you keep the sand clean and the nozzle tips replaced every 20 minutes, its well worth the money. It loses blasting power pretty quick because the nozzles wear out and widen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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