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Everything posted by ttodhunter

  1. Depending on your head, I'd go with +1mm flattops, you can get them at rockauto for $33/ea with rings. I run them on my P90 head turbo setup with no problems, but had lots of detonation with an N42 head.
  2. Hi Pallnet, It's probably about time to upgrade my fuel system. Looking to use FAST injectors with an adjustable FPR and a gauge. What have you got for me? Any other information you need from me? Thanks!
  3. Hi All, I have a 76 280z with turbo and a mild cam and recently have had a problem with power braking. About 1/4 of the time, I will step on the brakes and they are rock hard. This happens while cruising at light throttle, or after I've let off the gas and have ~15" vacuum. I checked and replace the check valve, but still have the problem. If the brake booster failed, would it fail all the time or sporadically? What else could cause loss of power braking - sometimes? Thanks!
  4. I built my N42/N42 with flat tops, ported head and 270/280 .464" cam. Calculated compression was at 10:1. With SDS programmable fuel/ignition, I was still having detonation issues and had to back the timing out quite a bit. Power-wise, it was decent, but not what I wanted and I ended up lowering compression and putting a turbo on. Lots of people say "just drop an L28ET in" and I wish that's what I would have done
  5. I've got a N42/N42 motor I initially built naturally aspirated- +1mm flat tops, ported head and a Delta grind 270/280 .464" cam (don't remember LSA). Originally had it at 10:1 CR but wasn't happy with performance so got a Cometic gasket that brought it down to 9:1 and put a turbo on it (stock boost, 6-7psi). With SDS fuel/ignition and Methanol Injection, I can almost keep detonation at bay. My question is: If I switch to a turbo cam (stock turbo cam for now), would I be more likely to detonate or safer? With less overlap, would that lead to increased cylinder pressure making it more
  6. IIRC, The 75 and 76 are full size spare tanks, 77 and 78 are for space saver spares and wont fit properly. 280 tanks are for fuel injected setups and have different ports and design. These are used for FI conversions which makes them more sought after and expensive.
  7. There's a rubber filler neck that goes from the filler to the tank. If I remember correctly, there's an access panel above the RR tire. If you remove that (3 or 4 phillips screws) you can probably see where the problem is. Good Luck and congrats!
  8. Hi all, I'm looking at picking up a ZX turbo so I can grab the motor (don't need the ECU). After I pull the motor and tranny, I would probably look at scrapping the car since it's a pile. I'm trying to think of everything that can be salvaged before scrapping. I'm looking at keeping: -the motor -tranny -grabbing the rear brakes -maybe the rear end -the "Turbo" emblems of course What other parts am I missing that would be worth saving? Anybody want anything if I do get it? Thanks!
  9. Well, suspicions confirmed. There was slight wear on the pump receiver and the drive shaft. Found a guy locally that had a spare spindle. How can I prevent this from happening again?
  10. I have removed the distributor, running a hall sensor DIS... I'm thinking the thrust force of the crank spinning the drive gear without the distributor in place must have forced the shaft sprocket downwards reducing the mating area. I'm also a few beers deep, does that sound accurate/possible?
  11. Got the new oil pump and it measures exactly the same. The shaft still only engages that same 1.08mm. The distance from the end of the shaft to the drive gear is 30mm. On the other side of the drive gear is 5mm, then a notch. Is the gear permanently mounted on the shaft or could it have moved 5mm over the past 38 years? Does anyone have one that they can measure? Thanks!
  12. Yeah, I'll check the bearings for damage. The logo is on the rod caps, but I forgot about the arrows on the mains- will check them too (and take lots of pictures for the shop that built it). The cost of towing wasn't an issue, things being rocky at work and being 2 hours late might have been...
  13. I haven't looked at the bearings yet... Wouldn't they have had a problem from the get go? Or am I looking for a spun bearing? I did notice the bearing caps didn't all have the Nissan logo on the same side- not sure if that matters, but if I had built it, they would be. I've got a new oil pump on order for comparison. I've read each of your posts for a long time and respect your input.
  14. Ok, oil pan has just a touch of metallic dust in the oil. I don't think it's catastrophic. Oil filter is clean as can be- possibly because no oil was circulating... The oil pump has no obstructions, nor does the pickup (which was tight). The one thing I did notice is: the tang that drives the pump only seats 1.08mm... There is a half inch alotted on both the male side of the shaft and female side of the pump receiver, but it's only seating 1.08mm. This seems wrong to me, like the shaft should sit deeper in the pump. Could a different model year pump have a different size housing w
  15. I got ~100 miles out of it with great oil pressure. That's good to hear about the shaft, a little peace of mind. I'll pull the pump and filter and cut it apart tonight for inspection. Thanks for the input!
  16. Hey All, I just put in my built motor and all was well for the break in. I changed the oil and drove to work and back once. On the second trip to work, I lost oil pressure. I checked the oil level, just fine, and drove home (I know, should have towed it) coasting with engine off as much as I could. The cam was chirping and dry, hopefully salvageable. I pulled the oil pan and didn't see anything disastrous. I'll be pulling the oil pump tomorrow to check for blockage. In thinking about causes for the loss of oil pressure, I can only think that the oil pump (brand new) f
  17. Good info Clarkspeed! That seems to be where I'm hearing some noises, so I'll bump the values in that range and work my way back out of it. Lazeum- I checked the valve clearances after the initial warm up, but thanks for the reminder to check them again. Then I'll go finish up my JohnC style break in. New clutch is on it's way!
  18. Took it out for a test drive last night and it's running pretty good. I think I ended up around 60% of the original fuel values, but I'm still running pretty rich. I adjusted the fuel in the driveway working through the rev range to about 4k, and slowly increased (guessing at) the values above that. Took it out on the road and did some 2nd gear accel/decel pulls, a couple in 3rd too, didn't make it to the freeway though. I am getting what I think is detonation around ~3500 with my foot in it, and also spinning the clutch . I'm going to try to get the timing dialed in better after work to
  19. Engine started. Took me a while to get it to idle correctly, it's not pulling much vacuum (~10") and I had to pull a lot more out of the RPM fuel than I thought. Didn't get a chance to drive it because the slave cylinder was blown. Must have not put it back together correctly... Picking up a new slave after work and going to adjust the valves and maybe try again.
  20. I'll finally be starting my 76' Z tonight (hopefully). It's been down for about 9 months since I lost oil pressure and found some metal bits in the oil pan. I decided to rebuild it (N/A L28) with some goodies- balanced bottom end, flat top +1mm pistons, had the head ported/polished and got a 270/280 .464 cam from Delta. Topped that off with some 265cc turbo injectors. After machining, the machinist calculated 9.9:1CR. I'm going to follow the break in theory of a warmup followed by 3rd gear pull/ coast down for 15-20 miles- then an oil change. My concern is that the new motor w
  21. Thanks for the reply. Tuning and break in is my next can of worms- but the injectors should be ok- whew.
  22. Hey all, I'm in the process of putting my built N/A motor back in my 76. I figured with the expected power increase, I would put in the turbo 265cc injectors (running SDS efi). I bought a set from Autozone, and noticed that they didn't come with the pintle caps. Oddly, there doesn't seem to be a thread regarding upgrading from L28e to L28ET injectors, or what steps would need to be taken. There are a couple of threads relating to running with or without pintle caps, but with differing opinions. Here's a picture of the old vs. new: The injectors fit in the manifold fine, but I'
  23. They're all going to be pretty close and on a stock ECM'd 280z, don't expect too much. My advice is, whichever one you get, weld in a bung for an O2 sensor.
  24. Looks like it. I think that's per piston. You may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere on the interwebs.
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