Guest Anonymous Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 I bought a set of mounts from dogpaws240@aol.com and they fit fine except that I want my engine lower and further back. I want to buy some from Mike at fonebooth.com but he doesn't know when he can get around to making them. I have searched the forum for some decent pictures of mounts but the pictures of the mounts are all in the cars and obstructed views. Does anyone have any good pictures of the mounts. Thanks, Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 25, 2002 Share Posted January 25, 2002 You can either check out this thread: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=11&t=000197 or you can check out these pics of mine in place: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/steer31.jpg http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/steer33.jpg http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/engine45.jpg http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/engine47.jpg Some of those are partially bocked too, but you can really see the mount and how it sits. I am planning on taking some more pics this weekend, so maybe I can get some better shots. Thanks AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 26, 2002 Share Posted January 26, 2002 Alsil's mounts are the closest to finished that you're gonna find documented. They provide ample header clearance (Hooker Block Hugger) and are sturdy. Once you see the basic design you may want to modify it to your liking. I lowered the engine 1/4 inch further than the mount design. I also extended the "reach" of the mount by 1/8 inch on each side, to get "my fitment" the way I wanted. One mod I would recommend is sleeving the frame rails. Just drill the top hole in the frame large enough to slide in a 3/4 inch tube. It doesn't need to be a really thick piece of pipe or anything. Grind it flush with the top of the frame. And weld it in place. Just make sure it's pretty much perpendicular to the frame rail. This will keep the frame from crushing when you tighten the mounting bolts, and will also prevent any tearing of the thin frame rails if you generate that much torque. With all due respect, I feel it's a better design than building a "C" type mount. The "C" mount will only tighten to the dimension of the space you provide (between the top and bottom flats) and you will have to build it to pretty tight tolerences. If you squeeze the "C" mount (which I think is feasible if you use a thin stock (3/16 or so) it could clamp down tight enough but you still have the sideways tearing to consider. If you don't want to do any header modifications to gain steering shaft clearance, I suggest you and a u-joint to the steering shaft ala SCCA's and the like. Otherwise this install is fab. I bottomed out my speedo on a test run last night. That means with the variances i'm sure I have with the tremec to datsun speedo (which can't be more than 10mph off) I was cruising at 150 to 145 or so. And the car felt really solid. And I was in 5th at 5K rpms. I am totally blown away by this install. Next comes better brakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hywayman Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 What kind of engine mounts work with alsil's frame mouts? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 29, 2002 Share Posted January 29, 2002 Use the early small block Ford mount, used from 65-70 on Mustangs, Cougars, etc... I have to agree with you, I think a sleeve is a good idea. I did have another idea, which would alleviate most of the issues. instead of having them only secure to the framerail, have a 2" round tube connecting the 2, and have it drop on top of the framerail. This would take care of the framerail weakness issue because the load would just be on the top, so you would only have to use 2 bolts from top to bottom to secure into place. No sagging, no twisting. I have been thinking about this, but have not got around to measuring it out yet. wouldn't take long, but I have been REALLY busy. This I think will be my next project. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 What is wrong with putting 2.5" angle on top of the frame rail and stich welding it on top and the side. A 2.5" piece of angle when pushed up aginst the frame rail, comes about 1/8" from the wheelwell. If you did this and then welded or bolted the engine mount to the angle and the frame there shouldn't be any sag, should there? You could connect these angles to a sub frame by 1/4 plate on the sides where it goes from the frame rail down to the sub frame. I think I might try this but I won't run the angle any further forward than the sway bar mounts, to give it some crush area. It's an idea I have thought about and am tring to figure out why it wouldn't. DP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 Actually I have rethought the whole thing and will be going with the crossmember. It's easier to install, and others will be able to duplicate it easy without a lot of cutting and welding to the car. I'll let you guys see it when it's done. It will position the engine the same place it is now, but will be a 1-piece corssmember that bolts in the same place as the old mounts I made. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tom sixbey Posted January 30, 2002 Share Posted January 30, 2002 i know a guy locally who used the angle iron method. He put a slight bend in one of the header tubes to clear the steering column, and his mounts put the motor as far back and down as possible... he had the rear sump oil pan and never had any crossmember clearance problems... The motor was a Boss302, and the car ran an 11 the first night on the track..... i'm thinking about doing this. What can be so terribly harmful about getting a subtle bend section in one of the header primaries? - i do mean subtle, and i mean a mandrel bend, not a kink in the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 31, 2002 Share Posted January 31, 2002 Apparently you can put an indent in the header up to 1/4 inch without too much interuption to the flow (sloped side indention). I actually shortened my header 1/4--3/8" to get steering shaft clearance and as long as you keep the angle from the head from getting too sharp you wont affect the flow too much. Just keep the inside of the header weld pretty clean ie. dont let weld create a ridge inside the tube. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted January 31, 2002 Share Posted January 31, 2002 well, it depends on how the motor is mounted. mine is slightly higher an d farther forward. I haven't seen a problem with this except for the crossmember clearence. The reason I have mine where it's at is because the way it sits now the bottom of the oil pan is even with the bottom of the crossmember. I didn't feel comfortable bringing it lower, although others have. If there have been no cases of the oil pan getting hit maybe I'll hit up someone about what the design is. Until then I'll keep improving mine. Thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 I have picked up some '90 mustang convertible motor mounts and will be making a crossmember this weekend. I have laid it out on paper and made a cardboard model and as long as I can clear the steering shaft and find the right headers, I think it may work. I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 Just an observation, but do remember if you 'stitch' weld angle iron to the stock Datsun frame rails that you might want to check its alignment afterwards. This is just an observation, I've welded thin sheetmetal for years, and I can tell you, even a series of tack welds can and does warp metal to some extent even if care is taken. The trick is getting it to warp the way you want it. A short weld in one direction will make it move one way, welding in the other direction will make it move the other direction, at least thats been my experience with it. The tube to prevent crushing is a good idea, I know my rails were easy to crush with just the force of the bolt going through it for the bottom radiator mount (JTR style). Its actually pretty scary how thin the frame rails are. Oh well, just my .02, worth what you paid for it. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tom sixbey Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 thats darn good advice, lone - i'm writing that down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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