kaito Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Ok, I'll swing by Sunday then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 aight, do you still have my number, text me first. anywho, i had a fairly productive day. My headers are now built and installed, and my driveshaft is in, and the car is no longer on jack stands! I didnt take any pics when i was building the passenger side, as my buddy was helping me, and we got **** done very quickly, the other side was alot more brainstorming on my part, so i took the time to snap a few. The passenger side is a block hugger, exiting near straight down in front of the starter like you would expect, and the drivers is a normal shorty with lots of weird kinks to avoid ****, like you would expect. Drivers side mid fabrication, this was right after i got all the tubes cut and test fit, just before i took it apart to finish weld it. after welding and a coat of paint, i then realized i forgot the o2 bung, so i welded that in after this pic was taken passenger side front, so you can see the collector From the top my engine with its rats nest, that will be consolodated a bit to make it look a bit nicer once i get the car running. first time my cars been on the ground in a month, it sits a bit better with the LS1 and T56 in there too... Thats it for today, thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Amazing! I can't believe how fast you are getting it done. What radiator and what hoses are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Infidel Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) You gotta do something about that split loom stuff.... Lol. http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/nylon-mono-braided-sleeving.php Edited June 15, 2012 by The Infidel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 I bought an eBay special 3 row aluminum radiator with twin electric fans and johns hoses. The upper hose from John fit great, the lower fit like **** so I made a wire shape and went shopping at my old sore (O'reillys) and found one thy had the right have(in the middle) an cut te ends off and it fits like a glove, As far as getting **** done its going way slower than if like tbh Infidel. Keep in mind that literally just tossed the wiring on te motor, I haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 I did the same thing, except I had to have the radiator lower tube cut off and a larger one put on with a different angle. Of course, I discarded the label off the hose that had the part number on it. If you still have the label in your garage, please send me the number and the manufacturer. I'm interested in keeping track of any parts I may need to deep up with (spares). I've seen cars blow hoses at the race track, so Id like to keep a spare in my race box. Thanks-your car looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 I dont, no, but i can grab the number from my purchase history at work tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Infidel Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 The hose numbers are posted in this sub forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Rebekahsz. The lower hose I used was a gates hose, part number 21503, It is much too long, and I only used te middle two bends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 SHE LIVES! Sadly, she does not drive =( Quick overview of my day. I spent it finishing all the small wiring bits for the ECU and whatnot, once i was done with that, we primed the fuel pump only to find out those STUPID F-ING Ferrule Fuel line ends decided to leak, as 3 of the 4 fittings had the ferrule get cocked in the line, and therefore, not seal. So i took a page from the ghetto handbook and just hose clamped the 3 hoses over the flares on the tubing, and it all seals just fine now... After setting up the base tune on the ez-EFI, on push of the button and she fired right up... it was pretty damn cool, and it warmed up and stayed right at 195 degrees.. Annoyingly, it then promptly proceeded to not want to move... It seems i have a dilemma... Now for question time... I am using a 7/10 Master cylinder on my pedal box. I am 90% sure im using the full travel of the MC, but even on the floor, the clutch does not disengage. Does anybody know what the stock MC size was on the LS1 cars? I dont want to have to get a new cylinder, but thats looking like a possibility., unfortunately, the other possibilities (improper slave adjustment, or a leaking line at the slave) require the removal of the trans... The other option was, maybe i missed an adjustment on the slave cylinder? i have bled the thing multiple times and it feels fairly soft, i was just hoping that was the feel of the clutch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) it looks like the stock CMC is a 3/4 inch unit. could that .05 inches in diameter cause this problem? (.75" vs .7") Edited June 19, 2012 by Fuzzydicerule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Anybody can correct me if I'm wrong. Stock on LS2 was 3/4. Most guys on forum use 7/8. I used 1" after 3/4" required all of my travel and left me no adjustment space. 3/4 was nice and soft, 1" is very stiff. So, the concensus of 7/8 is probably right. But, that is using stock Z-car pedals. Don't you have an alternate pedal setup? I imagine that changes everything..... Way to go on start-up! I put a pressure gauge on my master cylinder in order to help me know if I am in the pressure part of the pedal stroke. My gauge shows no pressure when I'm in the "slack" part of the pedal, then pressure rises imediately to 500psi, then very quickly drops again to almost zero at the bottom of the pedal stroke. I'm adjusted for about 1/2" of slack at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Pressure gauge came from Jegs; I think the AN 90 degree tee fitting did too. I'll be using a similar gauge setup when adjusting my brake rod inside the brake booster. (I got lots of slack at the top of the brake pedal). Edited June 19, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Yeah i am using a Tilton Floor mount pedal set. and unfortunatly that puts my Masters in a box in the fender well, so changing them isnt strictly easy... im going to try to adjust the input rod tomorrow, if that yields no results, i will purchase a 7/8 or a 1" master and then have no fun replacing it. Thanks, it was a good feeling. After all ive been through with this car, i was very worried that it wouldnt start, and when it fired right up and idled i was ecstatic, sadly the day ended bittersweet with the clutch, i was much looking forward to a romp around the neighborhood... That being said.. how on earth were you able to drive your car basically open header... its deafening..., my exhaust that i ordered should be here at the end of the week and that will be going on ASAP... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) AS many qualms as i have about you people knowing who i am IRL, i am just so damn excited This is the vid of the 2nd start, sadly cameras werent rolling for the 1st... but it will do, the plan was to back it out and drive down the street, but obviously that doesnt happen without a functioning clutch. Ignore the banter at the beginning, we were being (almost) kind neighbors and letting a woman with a couple small dogs walk past. and my friends are idiots... Also enjoy the startup scaring the **** out of my mother. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2189739000136 This was after we moved it back, i was letting the car warm up to temp to ensure the fans kicked in (they do... Awesome) and i wanted to get the exhaust as far out of the garage as possible, the fumes still got to me a bit though, lol... Again, ignore the banter, i had just commented on how loud the thing was, and my buddy was explaining stuff about videos and had mention they are one of the loudest motors open header next to a rotary, at which point i yelled at my friend neil (who drives an FB RX7) that we need to do battle, hence me yelling "NEIL, BATTLE!. Funny enough his car is my baseline run for how fast this thing is compared to stock (i just barely (and i mean by my headlight buckets) edged him out with the L24, so we will see how much more rape this is now...) The vid ended after it shot a fireball out the passenger header. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2189730599926 These are probably on my friend Jeffs wall, not mine, I am one of the Sam's that is tagged Edited June 19, 2012 by Fuzzydicerule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Hey man, Your **** is getting done quick. Sorry I wasnt able to come out. Some last minute stuff popped up. I should have at least texted you. My bad. Looking good btw!!! Im excited for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 its literally completely fine, i ended up taking a shift at work yesterday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 It is not as loud once you get it out of an enclosed space like a garage. Also my three-ish foot long collectors must make a big difference. I can tell from the length of your post that you are really jazzed. I'm praying for you that your clutch problem is outside the bell housing. There are certain rpm and load conditions where the car is actually pretty quiet. Yay for you! It took me 18 months to get to the point where you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 yeah i guess with that other guy where he has them exit out the hood that doesnt have the issue of the exhaust bouncing and resonating either. Thanks rebekah, to be fair, as far as im concerned this is still a 9 month project, as i havent driven the car really since october when i took it apart for the ET swap, although the fact that the actual LS1 portion has only been a month and some change has been nice. Heres to hoping giving the master a bit more slack will do the trick (somehow i doubt it), luckily, it seems like its holding pressure just fine, and nobodys chimed in saying that there was something i needed to do to the slave, so i guess i get to do something equally as annoying as a transmission removal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I don't fully understand the problem. Can you move your shifter in and out of gear as if the clutch is in and won't release? If so, it has to be do to limited mechanical pedal travel. Disconnect the push rod and see if you are then unable to shift from neutral INTO gear. That will confirm it. When I swapped masters Saturday, that remote bleeder made bleeding a snap. I do use my finger to "bench bleed" the master to remove air before hooking up the line. Then bleeding took about two pumps by my assistant with me under the car with a bucket. I have all stock clutch system-didn't even inspect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Basically, with the clutch fully bled and functioning properly, pushing the pedal to the floor would not disengage the clutch (i.e engine running, trying to put it into gear didnt happen) LUCKILY, my friend, from whom i got both the LS1 and the Tilton box from had a 3/4 master cylinder that he had gotten for the car that was originally getting the LS1. and we did a straight trade, Also Luckily, i was a genius when i built the pedal box and left just barely enough room to get tho the fittings and the bolts, so changing them out was much easier than anticipated That yielded this result http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v236/BANDGEEK234/?action=view¤t=IMG_0266.mp4 The 3/4 master cylinder is PERFECT, it engages about 1/2 way up pedal travel. I need to cut the rod down a bit to adjust where my pedal sits, and then i can fine tune my engagement point from there. My friend was in the drivers seat and started it after i swapped MC's, it was a brilliant feeling seeing him shift through the gears with the engine on, but then i backed it out of the garage and it ran out of gas >_< Also, my exhaust came in, again, annoyingly, MY CLAMPS DIDNT ( band style, i was going to do vbands but they be expensive) My decided upon exhaust setup will be a dual 3" from the collectors, combining to a single 3" after the crossmember, into a Moroso spiral flow, and the into a Single 3" in, dual 2.5" Thrush muffler at the ass end. VERY similar to KTM's setup So i took the time that i wasnt installing my full exhaust to do this I decided that the Thrush muffler had the outlets set too far apart, as my goal was the classic 432 tips So this happened Add in some cherry bomb Dual wall 2.5" tips, and then you get yourself one schmexy exhaust Got my wiring mostly sorted out as well Edited June 23, 2012 by Fuzzydicerule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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