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prop valve question


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So I have recently upgraded my front brakes to the AZC Wilwood caliper/5 lug conversion and rear disc 94 300zx caliper. My question is that the car is a 1973 240z and has a factory prop valve mounted on the firewall and was just curious if the brake bias should be close to before. I am not able to drive the car because its in the process of getting new stainless hard line and new vq35de engine swap also. I just want to make sure before flaring and bending all the new line whether or not the stock prop valve would be good enough or should I delete the stock prop valve and install a wilwood adjustable prop valve in the cabin by splicing into the rear line. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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i forgot to mention I have a remanufactured 280zx booster and a 15/16 master cylinder. So I know i will have a large enough bore on the master cylinder and the 280zx booster should provide plenty of pedal feel and ease, but do you guys think all of the upgrades will do ok with the factory prop valve or should I upgrade to an adjustable one. I am low on cash and would like to just get away with using the stock valve.

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i forgot to mention I have a remanufactured 280zx booster and a 15/16 master cylinder. So I know i will have a large enough bore on the master cylinder and the 280zx booster should provide plenty of pedal feel and ease, but do you guys think all of the upgrades will do ok with the factory prop valve or should I upgrade to an adjustable one. I am low on cash and would like to just get away with using the stock valve.

 

I'm guessing you've spent at least $1000+ so far, so why skimp on another $80 or whatever it is for an adjustable valve? If the balance isn't how you like it (it probably won't be), then you're likely going to end up spending even more money remaking the necessary stainless lines to work with the adjustable valve. Sounds like false economy to me. Just do it right the first time.

 

Speaking from experience...

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

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It's hard to say with that setup if you're going to have more front or rear brake bias without a prop valve. If I had to guess, it will be more front, so unless you go to different pad materials front/rear, more than likely you are going to have an adjustable prop valve all the way open. And if that is the case, then you do not want to leave the stock prop valve in as it will mean that the rears are not being fully utilized.

 

But as Nigel said, this is not the time to cheap out. Plus, they are more like $30 to $40 on ebay.

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Thanks for the info guys. I ended up picking up a wilwood prop valve and now im tryin to figure out if I should keep the z32 handbrake I mounted for parking or should I cut it back out and put in a hydraulic line lock just to have a sleeker/ spacious look ok. Id have to cut into a widened transmission tunnel I did when I mounted the handbrake and narrow it down to the stock size because should I ever mount a passenger seat it would not likely fit. Has anyone ever heard of having a lot of negative issues with a line lock? How are the Jamar line locks for anyone who owns one?

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