Kimi Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 Can you guys tell me if a T5 from Mustang '88 fits a '6? 289 Mustang engine? Thanks in forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 The T-5 will fit just as it does with a 302 (provided it's not the OLD 5 bolt 289 blocks of the pre-64? era). Just make sure you use a 157 tooth flywheel, and it's attendant starter. The 164 tooth flywheels will be too large to fit inside the bellhousing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 What about the clutch linkage? I know that '66 289's used an arm type linkage while the T5 uses a cable, correct? Are there special brackets that are necessary? Just curious. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted May 8, 2002 Share Posted May 8, 2002 generally when you put a T5 into a early stang you do convert to hydraulic.......... i can sell you a complete kit for $400 master/line/slave and mount its a special kit for a 65-6 mustang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted May 9, 2002 Author Share Posted May 9, 2002 Thanks for the information The engine in my 240Z is a '67-69(?) Mustang, so there should not be any problems with the bolts. OK, so I'll have to check the flywheel, that it is the 157-tooth. And then there is the thing with the clutch. Thanks Mike for the offer I will mail you about the kit. Is it easy to install the kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted May 9, 2002 Share Posted May 9, 2002 Also there is a balance difference betwen the flywheels too. The later flywheel (157 tooth) is 50oz counterbalance while the earlier one (164 tooth) is 28oz (might have those mixed up, not sure).....There is a flywheel you can buy that is 28oz AND 157 tooth, Ford Motorsport has it or Summit racing. Not cheap, but it will be the correct flywheel. AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted May 9, 2002 Share Posted May 9, 2002 the clutch kit is a bolt in. it comes with everything but the fork - thats in your T5.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 Well, I changed my mind totally and did go with a spacer plate. The reason is that I believe that I do not need to change almost anything else. I will also use the 240Z hydraulic clutch in the T5 (with some modifications of course). Thanks for your help guys again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 The stock T5 bellhousing will work (with the smaller flywheel and starter as mentioned although make sure you get the early 28 oz offet flywheel in the smaller size and not the later 50 oz offset one the T5/302 used), you have to remove the old clutch fork pivot, and move it to the other side using a spacer block (1" thick x 2" long) and a old 4sp clutch fork & fulcrum pivot (clip in or hairpin style). If you're interested in doing this, let me know as we just went through it and I can get the vendor's you'll need's name/website. Anyway the clutch hooks up just like the 64 mustang after that and is a great combo, a crossmember is available from sacramento mustangs (I had to modify it for use in a Ranchero which has a slightly different wheelbase than a mustang but is '*similar' in construction. Driveshaft, I'd try using the shorter (when compared to the old sideloader yoke) T5 mustang yoke on the existing Mustangs driveshaft and it should fit as is. (the T5 is like a inch longer because the bellhousing is deeper by an inch. Using the T5 yoke makes up the difference. Regards, Lone * Similar, but no one seems to know for sure on what fits either. Even the Ford experts I talked to (motorsports and others!) were real sketchy on what fits what between the two cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted June 6, 2002 Author Share Posted June 6, 2002 Thanks Lone for the information. I will use the old T10 bellhousing, and put a 1 " thick spacer plate between the T10 bellhousing and T5 gearbox. This should result in that I do not have to change anything else. There can be some problems with the driveshaft, but I believe that it will work. Hope so at least... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 7, 2002 Share Posted June 7, 2002 That should work fine, Sacramento Mustang does that very conversion adding the plate on the bellhousing. It should be a great combo, I'd do it if I had a older mustang for sure, 5sp's would make it great on the highway. Good luck with it, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted July 9, 2002 Author Share Posted July 9, 2002 Holy ****, This project was not so easy. There have been a lot of problems with the T5-swap. First, the 289-block looks like to be the really old version, so the spacer plate did not fit <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="mad.gif" /> Then I realized that the T5 I had bought was from a Camaro (the seller told me that it was from a stang...) So, now I am trying to get this puzzle to work... I have a new spacer plate that was made only for this swap and a clutch from a Pontiac Transporter V6 is beeing installed (only one that fits...) I am happy if I will get the car to move with these parts! The easy way would have been to start looking for a Ford T5, but they are so rare here in Finland that I had to start to build the car with these parts. Maybe I should come to th U.S. and buy a LOT of Ford stuff... <img border="0" alt="[rockon]" title="" src="graemlins/rockon.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 There ya go, send a sea-box van of parts back there and your in business! I feel for ya man, I'll tell ya even in the states, while its easier to get the parts, getting all the right parts and information was so frustrating, guys here helped alot, but Ford Motorsport wasn't even so sure about some of the info and you'd think they would know if it was something to do with Fords.. Sounds like you have a handle on it though and your present course of action sounds pretty good, good luck with it. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted August 5, 2002 Author Share Posted August 5, 2002 Jes, it´s alive The Camaro T5 is working, and is totally different from the Ford T10. I realised that the T5 is also a lot lighter than the old one Well, now I haven´t got any money left so I have to start driving the car instead of buying new parts for it Thanks guys for the help. Kimi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted October 4, 2002 Author Share Posted October 4, 2002 Hi again, Thought that I should send a link to pics from our day at the Motopark-track. There was only two old Z-cars, my 240Z and a 260Z. The rest were ZX and SX cars. I had big problems with the clutch-hyraulics... Well, I got on the track and did drive 4 laps (only with the 3-gear...). But it was so FUN Next year again!!! Here is the link: http://www.dnsf.org/images/motopark220902/ratapaiva/index.htm There is some pics of my 240Z (the black one), e.g. pics 398-407, 429, 430, 474, 475, 566, 567 and in 421 is a pic of me really sad-looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted March 20, 2003 Author Share Posted March 20, 2003 During this winter there has been some problems solved on my Z. The drivetrain-part starts to look better, but there is some issues still to solve. The main problem at the moment is that I should lift the T5 a bit so the drivshaft angle would be as good as possible. The problem is that there ain't space anymore between the transmission-tunnel and the gearbox Should I just cut the tunnel to get more space? Well, I'll drive it this summer as it is, but next winter I will start to work on it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 20, 2003 Share Posted March 20, 2003 Could you tell us how the motor has been mounted? The reason I ask is that there could be couple of answers to your question. If the motor is mounted to the Z cross member, then dropping the cross member slightly (provided no other interference issues arise with steering rod, etc) will raise the angle of the transmission tail shaft (which I assume is either low or at a low angle compared to the differential pinion gear angle). Another option is to raise the nose of the differential so that the angle of the pinion matches the angle of the tail shaft. But if the two axis are separated too far apart (while being parallel), then this will not fix that. As I stated in another post, there is a lot of separation between these to axis anyway, due to the sideways spacing of the pinion gear toward the passenger side of the car (due to the differential design). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimi Posted March 21, 2003 Author Share Posted March 21, 2003 It looks like I can't drop the engine anymore. I will take some pictures of the mounting and put them here. Haven't made the mounting-pieces myself (someone had swapped the engine before I bought my Z). But option 2, raising the diff, could solve the problem. I have to check this option when I get under the car again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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